Velvet Drive replace rebuild?

[Jimmy]

Ok, lesson #1.... Even though you could not pull out the dipstick to check fluid level, don't assume it is Ok...
Lesson #2: don't let JR take his friends out fishing until you can verify #1....

Result; seized velvet drive.

Soooo, it ran dry ( which explains transmission oil in center bilge after investigation). It obviously had a leak/seal issue.

Are they hard to remove? (11 meter)
Easy to rebuild? Rebuilt many types of engines, just not trannys)
It is starboard side, and not yet sure of model. Ripping it out tomorrow.... Can't wait. Any suggestions welcome, as well as calling me an idiot....

[Flyboy]

Had to pull one out of my 10 meter, was not that hard. Same problem as you, ran out of fluid. Rebuilt it for about 180.00 in parts. If you are not handy I would think any auto transmission shop would be able to rebuild it. It's just a 1 speed automatic transmission.

[BobCT]

The 11 meters are straight drives correct? I rebuilt mine two seasons ago and then had it bench tested. Glad I did because I didn't have the clutch clearance quite right. It's not that complicated but the manuals are really vague on some key points. I would go through 4 steps and then be hung up while I researched step 5.

Removing one of the seals using compressed air and separating then ring gear assembly come to mind. If it's a straight drive, it's about 180 lbs dry - which I guess you have covered

Make sure you have the engine higher in the back to reinstall (this could be mid cabin specific issue). I was able to get mine out but the back of the engine was a few inches too low to reinstall it.

Bob

[Jimmy]

Yes, I believe straight drive. That sounds encouraging for the cheap rebuild considering. I'll post after extraction and diss-assembly. Yes, pretty Handy. 2 snowmobiles, 2 motor cycles, 4 vehicle engines and a transfercase under my belt. Sounds doable.

[Jimmy]

Where were you able to obtain the manual for rebuilding? I have original manual, just not rebuilding step by step.

[prowlersfish]

Send me a pm with your email and I will send you 1 or 2

[Flyboy]

I used 2 bottle jacks set on the stringers under the manifolds and jacked the engine up that way. I was able to slide the driveshafts back far enough thet the transmission came right out. I put a chain on the transmission and used a steel pipe to lift it out.

[yorklyn]

Not sure how much room you have in your 11 meter but I would think two people should be able to muscle it out. I was able to attach mine to the blocks by myself but they weren't in the bilge at the time. only 4 bolts hold the bell housing to the block and you will need to disconnect the lines to the cooler. you will need to support the rear of the engine.
I think I paid about $550 to have each of mine rebuilt. I had a local auto tranny place do mine. you may need to call around to find a place . also make sure you flush out the cooler and lines .

[Jimmy]

Ok, got the beast out. (twice). Took it out the first time, spun the shafts, and all felt fine. Knowing it needed fluid flow from the pump to shift it, I figured nothing too loose putting it back in, filling it up, and trying it. JR, told me it was seized and killed the motor, but since I could spin by hand, maybe just needed more fluid. Well,,,, filled it back up, ran the motor, and the drive only had slight noise, we ran it a few minutes to get fluid flowing, and tride to shift it, no nuetral, and when I tried to shift into reverse it killed the motor. And never stopped spinning while motor ran. Took it out again, and on the bench. Pulled off gear reducer and pulled off pump and gears. Done for the night. I did put in screw jacks to support the engine as some bottles tend to drift.

I could not pull the gear out of the housing as it would move back and forth, felt spongy, but got late, so tuesday I will resume the project. Any trick to getting gears/clutches out?

The whole top deck on the 11 meter comes off in 5 minutes giving full access to the whole engine / drive, very handy.

[Jimmy]

By the way Todd, nice looking project with it all painted up. Only certain people can appreciate and enjoy pulling up engine room covers and showing them off.

[Jimmy]

Ok I got it apart. It seems the very low oil level caused it to get a bit warm, well very warm and down right hot. Hot enough to melt the oil baffle as seen in the pic. The melted baffle was holding the ring gear from moving to the reverse position. So experts, is the baffle necessary? gonna try to find a new baffle, and already have a rebuild kit on order and will rebuild the unit since it is this far down, but Im thinking a new baffle may be harder to find. however the other existing parts still look like new.

[prowlersfish]

I would replace it . You haven't pulled the clutch pack apart yet have you ?

[Jimmy]

Found one on Ebay, so yes, Yes, clutches are all out waiting for the new set. Hope to get it all back together next week. All parts look good yet, just the melted baffle.

[Jimmy]

Wow, parts came in in two days, slapped her back together and did a bench test. Used a large hand drill that would turn in reverse connected to a genuine redneck high pressure hose adaptor. Got enough rpms to actually shift, but going into reverse put a good load on it however it would shift into reverse fine. Had to slow it down or the drive would have spun over. Must create more resistance in reverse?

In neutral, the reducer still spun so a little concered about that. Going to hook it up to the engine tomorrow and see what we have.... Wish me luck.

[yorklyn]

My hat is off to you for doing it yourself! I didn't have the kahunas to attempt it! Lol! Although I know it wasn't "easy" to pull AND reinstall it, if you find you have an issue I have no doubt that you will be able to easily step back and sort it out. Very nice work! (Just make sure this one doesn't run dry! Lol)