Has anyone ever removed the fuel tanks for a 10 meter mid cabin? I am redoing my entire boat. I just noticed today that the small "Bulkheads" in front of both saddle tanks are completly rotted. It looks like the vent boxs are shot and that allowed water to soak the panel which happens to hold the gas tank in place. It appears that the only way to remove the tanks is to cut the deck out. I'm not sure if I can properly fix the panels with the tanks in place. The old ones appear to be painted plywood that was tabed to the hullsides with fiberglass. Any suggestions??
Thanks
10 meter fuel tank removal
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10 meter fuel tank removal
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
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RWS
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2857
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
- Location: West Coast Florida
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Hi Todd,
On the express cruiser (NOT mid cabin) the tank is actually suspended above the bilge and is attached to the top of the inboard stringers. Straps go over the top and the bottom of the tank (the suspended part) rests on several strips of (can't remember if it's rubber or teak) in the bilge. This design provides for an air space on the bottom of the tank and keeps it out of a good bit of the bilge water.
When I bought my 10 metr the aft bilge pump had been inoperative for some time and the aft bottom of the tank had been sittng in the water for who knows how long. When I did the repower I pulled the tank for inspection and found the corrosion.
A decision was made to replace the tank. We also took the time to coat the exterior (of course) bottom half of the entire tnk with a special primer and 2 part epoxy to insure this does not recur.
I know your design is different with those saddle tanks, however the point is, if you are in there it might be a benefit to inspect your tank bottoms and sides, especially the aft ends and corners.
As far as the attachment, looks like ours are different, however that aluminum tank should not be sitting flush on any surface. The bulkheads you describe may also be supporting the cockpit sole.
On the my model the aft cockpit sole is completely removable. There are fasteners all around the outside and two supports to the centerstringers. I've had mine out twice. Other than removing the caulking seal, it's really not a difficult process at all.
Sorry this information doesn't directly answer your question, however you may be able to use parts of it to resolve your problem.
RWS
On the express cruiser (NOT mid cabin) the tank is actually suspended above the bilge and is attached to the top of the inboard stringers. Straps go over the top and the bottom of the tank (the suspended part) rests on several strips of (can't remember if it's rubber or teak) in the bilge. This design provides for an air space on the bottom of the tank and keeps it out of a good bit of the bilge water.
When I bought my 10 metr the aft bilge pump had been inoperative for some time and the aft bottom of the tank had been sittng in the water for who knows how long. When I did the repower I pulled the tank for inspection and found the corrosion.
A decision was made to replace the tank. We also took the time to coat the exterior (of course) bottom half of the entire tnk with a special primer and 2 part epoxy to insure this does not recur.
I know your design is different with those saddle tanks, however the point is, if you are in there it might be a benefit to inspect your tank bottoms and sides, especially the aft ends and corners.
As far as the attachment, looks like ours are different, however that aluminum tank should not be sitting flush on any surface. The bulkheads you describe may also be supporting the cockpit sole.
On the my model the aft cockpit sole is completely removable. There are fasteners all around the outside and two supports to the centerstringers. I've had mine out twice. Other than removing the caulking seal, it's really not a difficult process at all.
Sorry this information doesn't directly answer your question, however you may be able to use parts of it to resolve your problem.
RWS
Thanks RWS,
My tank is suspended similar to yours. It dosen't look like the bulkheads support the deck. I believe the main purpose of these bulkheads are to hold the tanks in place and prevent movement fore and aft. Unfortunately I think (know) the only way to properly fix these bulkheads is with the tanks out. My rear deck is not removeable and will have to be cut out, something I wasn't planning on doing. I was just wondering if anyone has attempted to remove tanks from a boat like mine. It almost looks like you could work the tanks out under the deck but I'd feel alittle more confident trying it if I knew they would fit. I definatly want to check the tanks for corrosion. Does anyone know the best way to have a tank pressure tested? I think I read somewhere to put 3lb of air pressure and monitor a gage for an hour? I'd rather pay someon to do it instead of blowing myself up!
My tank is suspended similar to yours. It dosen't look like the bulkheads support the deck. I believe the main purpose of these bulkheads are to hold the tanks in place and prevent movement fore and aft. Unfortunately I think (know) the only way to properly fix these bulkheads is with the tanks out. My rear deck is not removeable and will have to be cut out, something I wasn't planning on doing. I was just wondering if anyone has attempted to remove tanks from a boat like mine. It almost looks like you could work the tanks out under the deck but I'd feel alittle more confident trying it if I knew they would fit. I definatly want to check the tanks for corrosion. Does anyone know the best way to have a tank pressure tested? I think I read somewhere to put 3lb of air pressure and monitor a gage for an hour? I'd rather pay someon to do it instead of blowing myself up!
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console