Trojan Boat Forum

Hi,
I have a 71 F-26 with a replaced motor (350 with assistance from Trojan Bob) - detailed elsewhere on this board by the prior owner. Boat is new to me over the winter, and I went through and replaced much of the battery wiring between batteries and main switch including a new Heart inverter/charger. But both before & after the only sizable wire out of the main switch goes to what I think may be the starter, then in series goes across the engine, past (through?) this solenoid and breaker and eventually feeds the helm.

I currently have a no-start condition - now I think this boat may have had that intermittently before, and it's known the wiring in the helm around gauges, ignition switch may be questionable. But it's a rats nest in there. BTW - by no-start, I mean nothing happens. Not even a click. Batteries are charged, showing ~13 V via the Heart interface.

Before I dig in the aforementioned rats nest, I'm trying to figure out the engine wiring a bit. I attached a pic - I think this is the "slave" solenoid -

--------> anyone know how this *should* be wired and what it's function is? And where to get a replacement / spare? <------------------

This one is on a bracket on the 'front' of the engine (bow side). 3 Red wires attached to the starboard bolt (left side in the pic), one I think on the starboard side, and 2 yellow's to forward side bolts. One of those I think goes to trans or V-drive. The wires go into bundles with miles of electrical tape, so tracing isn't as easy as it might be.

Seems like a mess to me. Haven't yet gotten to see starter, I assume there's a soleniod attached directly to it, but I'm 6'3" and not sure I can get down to see it.

Pic of the item in question:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/99hylq89p3ump ... d.jpg?dl=0

Thanks in Advance.
- Brian Ream
71 Trojan F-26 'Force Ten'

If nothing is happening when you turn the key, try turning the key to the start position and jiggle the transmission lever. The neutral safety switch will prevent anything from happening if it is off just a little. I have to jiggle my transmission lever about half the time I try to start it. It also makes a great theft deterrent.

The above about the neutral switch should be checked out.....here goes, the ignition switch sends a signal to that solenoid which allows the battery voltage to pass thru to the starter and the wire going to the trans is the neutral start wire which basically is the ground for the switch.....neutral selected at the trans grounds that wire so the circuit from the key can be completed.So you should test for 12v constant on one side then with the key in the start position you should have 12v out the other big lug to the starter....that is pretty much it....you will have to do some probing with a voltmeter and continuity to ground for the neutral side.......may be as simple as the solenoid is bad but testing will reveal that fairly easily, hard to say from the pic what all the wires are from.

Did it crank before you swapped the engine? If so, chances are something in the engine wiring is messed up. It looks like the 40A circuit breaker is tripped in your picture. Push it in to see if it resets and try to crank the engine. If it pops out again, you have a wiring error,

The Dog House wrote:If nothing is happening when you turn the key, try turning the key to the start position and jiggle the transmission lever. The neutral safety switch will prevent anything from happening if it is off just a little.....

+1
Easiest thing to check and is a very common issue.

Thanks all - I was smart enough to check the trans lever, but that's not quite the same as the "jiggle" method while turning the key - it's possible it is out a bit.
Mikeandanne - that's very helpful info about how the trans wire is configured - that will greatly help me diagnose it.

akwalker - sorry that wasn't clear. The engine was swapped by prior owner, and it has run (and well) since that. But he did have an intermittent no-start and thinks a yellow wire from the ignition switch could be faulty.
I will say, I do have 12V at the helm for accessories, though all engine gauges don't seem to come on including engine volts. however, I don't know if that gauge ever worked. Thus rats nest, and why with some knowledge I thought it might be more expedient to work back from engine rather than forward from ignition switch.

Pretty sure I did push on the breaker, but I'll look closer.

Would still love a source for a spare. I understand these aren't expensive - anyone know where to get a replacement?

- Brian

The Klixon CDM-40 circuit breaker is an exact match to the OEM circuit breaker used on these boats ( http://www.bestboatwire.com/circuit-bre ... set-40-amp ).

Yes that is a solenoid. The smaller terminals should be grounded to complete the circuit.

I just rebuilt my starters and replaced the solenoids while I was there. The guy who rebuilt my starters ordered me the solenoids. I used ones that are for electric lift gate trucks. They are rated for continuous duty.

Quick update - the no-start was due to an intermittent contact on one of the old pull switches that was wired as a kill switch. Haven't decided yet if I will just bypass that or replace that switch.

I appreciate the link for the breaker - I'll order one of those, and see if my yard can get me a spare solenoid to have aboard or I'll go one of the other routes recommended.

Thanks all
- Brian