Trojan Boat Forum

I'd also be interested to know where to find a hull ID on a runabout. My boat is still intact and mostly original, but where they hid the hull number I have yet to discover, though I've been over (I thought) every inch of the boat.

Prowlerfish, I kind of went back and forth on getting the pics in order. The four that I have are now included in the post. I hope TerryG gets back to verify his "'57 Chevy" fins.

Here is the complete lineup of pics that I have: The '59 Trojan Ski Bee 18' with the fins. Ski Bee '59 18' JPEG.jpg This '58 15-footer that looks like an I/O. (I didn't know that Trojan made I/O runabouts!) Ski Bee '58 15' JPEG.jpg A '58 18-footer that is really moving. This one looks similar to my ...

Yes, pics would be great. As soon as you get the info together, be sure to add your boat to the list. Sorry for the late reply. I hope you marked this thread to followl Here goes a guess: I have some old Trojan runabout promotional material with photos of a few of the models. One is of a 1959 Ski Be...

Bob, Don't know anything about epifanes. I already have an unopened gallon of Pettit 1015 Z Spar Captain's Varnish, Traditional Amber Color with Extra U.V. protection. It looked like what I wanted. I guess I'll find when I use it. I wanted Amber, but of course Clear is another option. Nice thing abo...

Bob, I used Interlux mahogany stain and filler which gives a little color, leaves the grain very distinguishable, and helps cut down on soak-in for the varnish coats. I'd give you the part number for the stain/filler but I bought mine so long ago I'm pretty sure it's changed by now. The name on the ...

According to me, you're right!

My bad, I was referring to this post from Marlin over on my "Varnishing Anyone?" thread: The Interlux Seam Compound comes in a can & goes on with a putty knife. I would tape off the wood adjacent to the gap being filled to make cleanup a bit easier. The cleaning solvent will also smoot...

Starting next Monday with finish coats on mahogany, caulking the "devil" all the way to the bow (ick, two bulkheads to remove and crawl up under there) caulking deck (PITA--looking for press-in caulk. not available at West Marine last time I was there) finish topside paint, probably not to...

OK, so no one bit on my description of the TROJAN badge, here is a rough enlargement of one like mine from a 1959 ad. The SkiBee in the ad is NOT like mine and does NOT show the badge, but a Bimini 23' fishing boat does show it on the port side just afore the transom. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7...

Will Do!

I'm open to any thoughts on the TROJAN Badge location on the SkiBee and possible places they are hiding the hull number (see blue text in previous post).

Das Boot is under wraps until Spring, which is why it's mostly just sealed up against moisture, with the finishing work left (light sanding, varnish, hull and bottom paint. I hope it doesn't turn into a big production and I can get it out fairly early in the season. If it stays as dry as it's been, ...

Since the topic of various goos, goops and glops has come up, here are some shots of filled drill holes made originally for squirting in Git Rot 2-part epoxy, that basically reforms the rotted wood into a piece of plastic. If the Git Rot does not fully fill the cavity and allow you to top it up in t...

Big D and Prowlerfish: The caulk I originally used on the deck planking was some silicone type from a squeeze tube! I figured I could get away with silicone because, although no other caulk will stick to it, I didn't need any other. Around the edge, I used silicone in a brown color so i'd have a nic...

Here's the deck after staining with Interlux mahogany Filler/Stain. I never figured out how slick this stuff worked, and I'm glad I saved it (it was also about 20 years old and the can had been opened previously... still in perfect shape!) Anyway the trick is--and it helps to read the directions, wh...