transducer

mr elevman · Post by **mr elevman** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:19 pm

i just got a new thu hull tras. and its shaped like a football4"long x2.5"wide2"high should i make a block that i can recess it in and flair it out to fit like a hump or just a ferring to get the proper angel and let it be it is bronz not plastic

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:20 pm

You don't need to recess the transducer. A simple fairing block is all you need. The important thing about installing a transducer is to make sure that it is pointing straight down. You should also have a block on the inside of the hull. It should be a mirror image of the block on the outside. When the two blocks are in place and the nut on the transducer is tightened the fairing blocks should mate to the hull, with no gaps. Final assemble will include a good bedding compound or caulk to seal the transducer to the block and the blocks to the hull.

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:44 pm

Here is an instruction sheet that I got with my transducer.

mr elevman · Post by **mr elevman** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:21 pm

thanks thatis what i was thinking (keep it simple stupid)

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 7:24 pm

When in doubt, ask. Someone on the forum has been there and done that. You're only stupid if you don't ask, and screw it up.

mr elevman · Post by **mr elevman** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:27 pm

isent that the truth i teach print readding and that is one of the things i stress to my students if you dont know or dont understand ask my phone is allways on just ask

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:08 pm

I just installed one of these for my flybridge split-screen. Time consuming but very simple. After the mock-up I used 3-M 4200 for the sealer, stays slightly flexable. Any marine electronics supplier can get you a plastic fairing block to match your transducer.

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:45 pm

The same folks that make the transducer (don't remember their name...it should be on the box) make a nice plastic fairing form that you can order for a few bucks. You figure the angle of your hull, split it with a bandsaw and it makes wedges for inside the hull and out. Easiest and most secure way to mount a transducer. Posts are really tough to read with full size pictures attached...have to scroll back and forth. Please shrink 'em so they don't blow the page out. Thanks

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:22 pm

airmar?

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:00 pm

I already have two in hull transducers on each side of my boat. One has a paddle wheel the other jsut transducer. There is a non working Raytheon D600 speed/temp/distance monitor on boat.

Once the housing is in place, through the hull, can the actual transducer be pulled in and out of there. Or is the actual housing (threads and all) one piece and the whole transducer. The diagrams above on past post make it look like I can slide the transducer out of the housing hole and insert another, modern transducer that comes with a newer sonar, right in there.

I realize if it is all one piece I can tear out the transducer and use the old hole in the boat. just wondering if housing can stay and the new transducer slides in, rather than sanding and re bedding as one piece. With the plug and all on the above instructions it looks like maybe thats the way it is made (just slide a replacement in.)

Thanks!!!!

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:50 am

If you're talking about the paddle wheel, it can be pulled out and replaced with a plug while the boat is still in the water.. The paddle wheel is for water speed for some models of GPS. There is a flap inside that closes when you pull the paddle wheel out and stick the plug in. Changing transducers just requires that the new one will fit the fairing block correctly. When you pull the old one out take it with you to get the new one.

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:34 am

I realize if it is all one piece I can tear out the transducer and use the old hole in the boat. just wondering if housing can stay and the new transducer slides in, rather than sanding and re bedding as one piece. With the plug and all on the above instructions it looks like maybe thats the way it is made (just slide a replacement in.)

Replace the transducer, thatâ€™s the safest way to insure that your depth finder works properly. The insert is for the speed/temperature sensor. Transducers come in different frequencies. Some have duel frequency outputs. They may look the same, but may not be. If the new and old transducers use the same frequency, the plug entering the display unit is most likely different. A proper plug could be spliced on the old cable, but the splice can cause interference in the display of the system.

All that said, remove the old transducer. If the transducer can be popped out of the hull without damaging the seal of the fairing block and backing board everything can be reused. If 5200 sealant was used you probably wonâ€™t be able to get it out in tact. Be very careful that you donâ€™t damage the hull when removing the transducer.

The hole in the hull can be reused. If the hole needs to be enlarged, it can be filed or drilled. If it needs to be drilled, make a tapered plug and pound it in the original hole. The plug will hold the pilot bit of the hole saw so it can be drilled without wobbling. The old fairing block should match the new transducer. If it doesnâ€™t, replace the blocks.

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Tue May 05, 2009 11:36 pm

Tom,
Check out the instructions.