Anyone taken on the task (or paid to have this done) of replacing the flybridge floor and salon ceiling? I just purchased the boat and love everything about it except the floor of the bridge is delaminating all over the place, and my ceiling was leaking thru the the interior lights until i patched it up as best as possible. I have done all the usual things like removing every screw i could find, fill with 5200 and re-attach,etc. The overhang of the bridge floor is also splitting around the edges.
Thanks All
replacing flybridge floor/salon ceiling 76 F36
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Buckknekkid
- Sporadic User
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:22 am
- Location: Taranna
Not yet
I have a spot near the helm seat. Im going to cut out the spot with a grinder, peel back the glass and then scoop out the muck, We are stored indoors so it makes life a litle easier < I'll let it sit for a month then replace the core with foam.
F36 ~
SHES SOLDDDDDD
SHES SOLDDDDDD
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JuiceClark
- Moderate User
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 10:20 am
- Location: Fort Myers, FL
Been there ... done that!
I bought my 1982 F-36 really inexpensively. It was in pretty good condition but the flybridge deck was totally wet and soft from some idiot screwing things into it carelessly. So, the first thing I did, after I bought it, was remove the helm and start cutting 1' x 1' squares out of the deck to study the extent of the damage. I did this with my circular saw set to where the blade sunk in just about 3/8".
If you just have small, tennis ball sized soft spots or smaller, I'd dig out the dark spots and pour in resin mixed with sawdust. If bigger problems are evident, you'll have to replace the rot with another core. Unfortunately, my rot was thorough...so this is what I did:
When I found about 70% of the bridge was soaked and rotting, I decided to replace the whole damn thing. I have a friend who worked for Viking for 20 years...so he was the ace in the hole for this worst case scenario.
I cut the balsa wood outta' that thing all the way to the wood edge that goes around the bridge. It was a messy bitch, but the entire bridge was removed to that about 5" wood frame around the edge. I then epoxied that wood edge so it wouldn't rot in the future -- I know some Trojans get wood rot just inside the drip cap. I left the headliner in the salon in place. So, if you looked down on the bridge, all you saw was the top of the liner. Don't work on it from below, that liner is nice!
Then, I went to the marine supplier and bought 5 gallons of resin, a big roll of cloth, 6 4'x8' sheets of the new poly foam stuff that replaced balsa, and a gallon of gel-coat.
My friend made a jig to reflect the proper camber of the bridge, I think it was 3" higher in the middle than the sides. In about 2 hours he glassed those sheets together over the jig and we tied it down so it would keep the proper shape lying on the jig. The next day we dropped it down on the bridge and epoxied the hell out of it into place. The next day I sanded it and rolled on the gel-coat. The next day I glued that non-skid stuff with the little dots on there...it comes in a 6' roll from Nautilex (Ebay). Then, I replaced the helm and the bridge and it was done!
That bridge is as hard as a rock. About 5 of us fat bastards have been moving around up there without that deck making a shiver.
I know it's intimidating at first. But the reason we buy Trojans is because they are NOT cored below the rub rail like so many other boats. After this project, I feel like I know how to approach most glass projects with confidence...wasn't that bad.
Good luck and send me an email if you think I can help,
Tony in Ft. Myers, FL
If you just have small, tennis ball sized soft spots or smaller, I'd dig out the dark spots and pour in resin mixed with sawdust. If bigger problems are evident, you'll have to replace the rot with another core. Unfortunately, my rot was thorough...so this is what I did:
When I found about 70% of the bridge was soaked and rotting, I decided to replace the whole damn thing. I have a friend who worked for Viking for 20 years...so he was the ace in the hole for this worst case scenario.
I cut the balsa wood outta' that thing all the way to the wood edge that goes around the bridge. It was a messy bitch, but the entire bridge was removed to that about 5" wood frame around the edge. I then epoxied that wood edge so it wouldn't rot in the future -- I know some Trojans get wood rot just inside the drip cap. I left the headliner in the salon in place. So, if you looked down on the bridge, all you saw was the top of the liner. Don't work on it from below, that liner is nice!
Then, I went to the marine supplier and bought 5 gallons of resin, a big roll of cloth, 6 4'x8' sheets of the new poly foam stuff that replaced balsa, and a gallon of gel-coat.
My friend made a jig to reflect the proper camber of the bridge, I think it was 3" higher in the middle than the sides. In about 2 hours he glassed those sheets together over the jig and we tied it down so it would keep the proper shape lying on the jig. The next day we dropped it down on the bridge and epoxied the hell out of it into place. The next day I sanded it and rolled on the gel-coat. The next day I glued that non-skid stuff with the little dots on there...it comes in a 6' roll from Nautilex (Ebay). Then, I replaced the helm and the bridge and it was done!
That bridge is as hard as a rock. About 5 of us fat bastards have been moving around up there without that deck making a shiver.
I know it's intimidating at first. But the reason we buy Trojans is because they are NOT cored below the rub rail like so many other boats. After this project, I feel like I know how to approach most glass projects with confidence...wasn't that bad.
Good luck and send me an email if you think I can help,
Tony in Ft. Myers, FL
Been there...still doing that
I own a 1978 F28 that has a wet bridgedeck. I discovered mine when I was having a survey done prior to putting it up for sale. Unlike JuiceClark, I didn't want to attempt to work on it from topsides. Outdoor storage just didn't afford me the luxury of that. So, down came 1/2 the headliner. While it is a little more difficult to work overhead, I did much the same as JuiceClark, just inverted. Also, it doesn't have to be real pretty this way. I just shudder at the thought of 70% being wet....I just did about 35%, including the overhang on the rear cockpit!