87 10 meter- do i need to replace cutlass bearings?

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:50 pm

I have an 87 10 Meter Int. I just took the props off and had them done. I noticed there is a little play with drive shaft in bearing. maybe as much space as the width of a penny. Do I need to replace? Thanks!

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:12 pm

Dave It looks like you are due replace them , I go by feel (very slight play is ok ) but it loos like you may have a liltle more play then you should .

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 6:34 am

Assuming you are on the hard, now is the time.

Some of the Internationals have 2 struts per side = 4 cutless bearings.

While your shafts are out, it's a good time to redo the packing on the shaft seals (or go to dripless)

RWS

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:10 am

Why would he put the shafts out ? And the shafts need to be in to install packing .

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:17 am

I thought the shafts had to be removed to replace the cutless bearings.

2 per side (4 total) if his International is not based on the mid cabin model.

Change packing to STUFFING BOX TUBE.

On the hard with the shafts out is a good opportunity to rebuild these items. A relatively inexpensive maintenance item.

When I first got my 10 meter, the packing nuts were frozen and water was dripping into the boat at a fast pace. This condition had been going on for some time as some damage was done by salt water slinging up against the rear engine room wood bulkhead.

With the shafts out we rebuilt the tubes and greased them up good. This repair worked great until we did the refit at which time we went to PSS dripless shaft seals.

RWS

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:45 am

Some marinas have a press to remove the bearings on the boat , If not I just pull the struts . Easier to me anyway.

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:57 am

Yep they need replacing. Worn out and the rubber is dead, dry and cracked. I agree...it is easier to remove a strut than a shaft. You will not get the shaft out without destroying your coupling. You can change them without removing either. If the yard does not have a suitable press you can make one out of split pipe, steel plate and threaded rod. Be sure to get all the set screws out before trying to press the bearing out.

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:32 am

Thanks guys. The shafts have not been removed and I hoped to just have the yard take out the cutlass bearings without removing the struts, shafts, and everything else (cause all that will cost me more money).

I had the stuffing box repacked last year. It should be good.

ltbrett · Post by **ltbrett** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:26 pm

This is about a one hour job for a properly equipped mechanic. No need to remove anything except the props. There are two set screws per bearing that must be backed out. Then you put on what looks like a flanged pipe cut in 1/2 lengthwise and a special hydraulic press. Pop, move on to the next one. Most of the time the bearing is stuck in the strut. Don't let anyone tell you it is ok to beat it out unless your strut is sitting on a bench.

As far as yard jobs go, this is a cheap one.

Brett

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:05 pm

I didn't mention the boat (and the cutlass bearings) only has 340 hours on it. There is a small amount of play in there. The pics may portray more space in there than there actaully is. Moves about the width of a penny. If any play at all they need to be replaced? Is just the time, regardless of actaul wear, a factor, too?

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 4:15 pm

davescarrs wrote:I didn't mention the boat (and the cutlass bearings) only has 340 hours on it.

That can be several years if the annual hour usage is low which could explain the poor visual condition.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 5:24 pm

They look like they are cracking

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 6:11 pm

There should be NO play. One grounding / pumping sand through the bearing will cut out the rubber. If there is play the whole end of your shaft will whip at cruise speed and make very disagreeable vibration.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 3:49 pm

The cutlass bearings can be replaced without removing the shaft. Strut Pro will rent you a puller/press or sell you one: http://www.strutprocom or you can make your own if you are handy :http://www.catalina310.org/Maintenance/ ... altool.htm

Both work the same without putting strain on the strut.

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 6:05 pm

thanks Larry-

I think I may go your route with strutpro tool. yard says must remove strut or the shaft. one or the other, to get the job done. If i do all that I mine as well just do the rest. I may just rent the tool and do it myself without having to remove anything. Hope it works.

are the cutlass bearing sizes pretty general as far as ordering the replacements ahead of time? my struts are manganese bronze and the shaft is 1 1/4". i guess the cutlass bearing inner diameter would be 1 1/4". does anyone have a 10 meter with the same configuration that can tell me what the outside diameter would be for the cutlass bearing? I will measure, but just wondering.
I have two struts on each drive shaft. total of 4.
Thanks!

Trojan Boat Forum

87 10 meter- do i need to replace cutlass bearings?

87 10 meter- do i need to replace cutlass bearings?

Cutlass bearing