Hull Paint

herb holder · Post by **herb holder** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:18 pm

I am new to this website and looking for a good paint brand to paint my 1969 Sea Voyger hull. Anyone have any Ideas? Just had the bottom done and now we are going to paint above water line. How do we seal the cracks before painting? Do we sand and prime first or light sand and paint?

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:16 pm

Take the time to prep (90% of the job) and put a good 2-part marine polyurethane on it.

I prefer AwlGrip for the boat, Sikkens on cars, but thats just a personal choice.

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 6:01 pm

Herb, You will get many answers to your questions as it calls for many opinions. For example, I prefer one part polyurathanes for wood hulls. Interlux Brightside or even the Interlx enamals are a good choice for wood. Listen to Rossjo about the 90% preperation. Hull seams are tricky. I find it best not to use sealant as the hull will swell up in the water and the cracks will close up. This is a vast topic for sure. Jimbo36

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 6:45 pm

All good advice

Welcome to the forum

9rock · Post by **9rock** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:51 pm

jimbo36 wrote:Herb, You will get many answers to your questions as it calls for many opinions. For example, I prefer one part polyurathanes for wood hulls. Interlux Brightside or even the Interlx enamals are a good choice for wood. Listen to Rossjo about the 90% preperation. Hull seams are tricky. I find it best not to use sealant as the hull will swell up in the water and the cracks will close up. This is a vast topic for sure. Jimbo36

I would have to know a little bit more about where the cracks are to say whether they should be caulked or not , as mentioned this is very tricky wood boats years ago and some still today used red lead putty it stays soft longer than no lead putty so it cracks back out eventually , I choose a single part urethane made by sika because I had about 450ft of seams to caulk and I routed all of them out with a dremal, life caulk would have been a better choice but its 20dollars a tube , cracks or checking that is not in seams get handle differently the closer to the water line the better chance of them swelling shut . the bottom of the boat shown seams opened up 1/4 to 3/8 of a inch we put nothing in them it sat in the sling 2 days with 3 pumps and they all close exept for a small trickle it was realy scareing and hard to believe but they did

awl grip is second to none but its very costly and better for it to be applied by a professional . there are other 2part paints cheaper , but I think bang for the buck is the bright side urethane modified rolled and tipped , it gives a sprayed finish and will not chalk like enamels

The differance between a good paint job and a bad is normaly the prep proper sanding sealing and primening is critacal for a good paint job

9

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captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:05 pm

The hull will need to be able to breathe, and will flex (simple swelling and shrinking with humidity, or out and out flexing as stresses change hitting waves etc).... so make sure you pick out a paint that is not too 'hard' (some 2 part polyurethanes may not 'flex' enough), and lets things breathe (or you can some rot problems before long).

LandVF36 · Post by **LandVF36** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:15 pm

Based on experience, everyone seems to have a favorite brand. If you are getting started for the first time, check out http://www.yachtpaint.com They have a lot of information on the site, of course geared towards their products (interlux), but the information, including videos are very good.

Amen to the prep work. You can figure out a budget for the caulks, fillers, primers and final paint coats. If you spend anything less that the same amount on cleaners and sandpaper, you're probably not spending enough time on prep

Also, we love pictures here. Post some before you start and along the way so we can all pat your back through each step!

9rock · Post by **9rock** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:24 pm

captainmaniac wrote:The hull will need to be able to breathe, and will flex (simple swelling and shrinking with humidity, or out and out flexing as stresses change hitting waves etc).... so make sure you pick out a paint that is not too 'hard' (some 2 part polyurethanes may not 'flex' enough), and lets things breathe (or you can some rot problems before long).

I would ditto that 2 parts are bridle , that's why I choose a 100% acrylic latex but its a old work boat and the finish was not as important .
keep the fresh water out and you keep the rot out

9

1967 seavoyager · Post by **1967 seavoyager** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:32 pm

We use Interlux #1 for the hull. Brightside primer. Use Interlux Seam Compound # 30 I think. One is for above the water line & one is for below I can't remember which just now. That'll do a nice job for you.

herb holder · Post by **herb holder** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 2:16 pm

Well I started the dreaded task of sanding. 3 days straight and now that2lb. sander feels like 20lbs. back and shoulders are killing me.
Found smoe dry rot under the drip edge. ( pictures to follow ) Now do I just fill them with a filler or dremel them out for another piece of wood?
Thanks fellas for all the input! Oh and by the way .....where do you buy that Red lead putty?

and I'm with the guy that hates plastic boats..........LMAO !!!!!

gettaway · Post by **gettaway** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:29 pm

heres a nifty calculator to help estimate the amount of caulking / sealant you will need
http://www.acousticalspecialties.com/fi ... ulator.php

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