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I have a split coupling attatched to my drive shaft, which I thought would be fairly simple to remove (the drive shaft). I removed the two clamp bolts and the set screw as pictured. i loosened the stuffing box nut. The shaft doesn't seem too easy to get out.
I went to the end of the shaft where props are already removed and whacked a piece of wood a couple times against the prop nut towards the back of the boat in effort to knock the shaft out of the coupling, thinking the key was a little rusted in there, to no avail. I heated it up a little, too.
I was under the impression the reason they made these spilt couplings was to not have to remove the shaft flange from the transmission flange to get the shaft off.
However, I guess I will have to remove the bolts connecting the two flanges and then whack the flange off the shaft if penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and heat don't work? Still easier then pressing the flange off as I have read seem a requirment to remove regular shaft couplings (not split coupling) using long bolts and a socket while retightening the flanges together to press the shaft out.
Am I missing something for a shaft removal from a split coupling? I plan on soaking it with some penetrating oil today and letting it sit a while. I guess I'll heat up a little more with propane torch next time too?
I disconnected the flange bolts already along with the split coupling bolts. My plan was to use a 1" socket and longer bolts as you described. I got this far about a week ago and stopped as I moved on to other things.
I have to get this done in the next week though before it can go in.
I thought the pressing out method was the only way, it would have been nice to just remove the split part and install the new shaft log.
Let me know what you come up with and I'll do the same. BTW, we have the same boat.
Use caution with the socket / long bolt press method. If it doesn't come apart easily, you could distort your coupling flange making future coupling alignment impossible. (Yep, I've done it!)
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
My understanding is that on a split coupling flange you can probabaly just tap it til it breaks loose if you already removed it from the trans. I thought it would come off without even removing the bolts from the trans flange.
I hoped the socket method doesn't apply to the split coupling. I guess I'll seperate the trans flange and the shaft flange and let you know what happens.
Let's stay in touch, I need to do mine soon so I might get to it before you do and will share my findings. I have been soaking both sides for weeks with the port side already separated.
As I recall, let's see it was 9 years ago, I used a nice deadblow hammer on mine to get them off.
What I do recall however is taking one or both of them to a machine shop for something - to fix something that was definately not right, I just can't remember what we did to the couplings, but it cost a bout $50.
I own a nice tap & die set, so it wasn't a rethreading issue.
Just cannot recall waht it was.
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
They have been soaking in PB Blaster for a couple of weeks. I used a long socket (happened to be a 20mm) and longer bolts to push it off the flange. It didn't take much force at all but...
it took a little while alternatively tightening the bolts and then adding washers to shorten them as they got too long from tightening. Once I got about 75% of the way, I just tapped it the rest of the way with a hammer.
A little tedious but worked well.
Mine slid on easily for the 1st couple of inches and then stopped. I need to figure out some way to "lock" the shaft so I can tap it back on. Right now, the shaft just slides back in the shaft log.
I was thinking a block of wood between the end of the shaft and the rudder but don't want to go beyond firm tapping with this method. If you have gotten past this point, please let me know.
sounds like a 2 person job at least. Someone to hold a block of wood on the prop end while your tapping the flange on inside the boat?
I'm replacing cutlass bearings and don't have enough room to clear shaft from rearward struts (boat to low and it's against the storage building wall). I'm gonna do the forward ones and when the boat gets staged outside before being put in the water I'll get to the rearward strut cutlass bearings.
I won't get to your step--putting the flange back on-- for a week or two at least.
Did you get the couplings faced and fitted? Do you think it is neccessary?
next time you have to remove shaft put a cold chisel or fat screwdriver into the slot and spread coupling with a tap with a hammer, shaft will slide out by hand When you are putting shaft back in make sure the key slides into the keyway freely put it back into the shaft remove all burrs and slide it back in JOB DONE
Did you tap the shaft back in the coupling? Any problems? I changed the forward two cutlass bearings. I have to wait until they stage my boat to put in the water before the shaft will come all the way out to do the rear ward cutlass bearings. Boat in indoor storage and backed against a wall. Probably next week. Cutlass bearings were not too difficult of a job. Hope I can get the shaft back on pretty easily.
Maybe I'll stretch out the shaft coupling a little as "downunder" suggested. I was scared to damage something when removing the shaft from there so i didn't stick anything in the slot space. Maybe it woulda made our job a little easier.
in the next couple of days. I have couplers/flanges/shafts all polished up and ready to go.
I'm pretty sure they'll go back on with some at the prop ending blocking the shaft from moving. No, to your other post, I'm just cleaning up what I have w/o doing any machining.
Keep you posted once I get it done, which has HAS to be by the end of the week.
