Oil: How many quarts?

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:42 am

i changed the oil in my engines this weekend (and as i'm mechanically retarded...yea me!), and i want to make sure i'm not going nuts or anything...

how many quarts of oil should a chrysler 318 take? i thought they took right at 5 last year, but they each took 6 this go-round. the only thing i did differentlyi was NOT to put oil in the new filters before i put them on. do the filters actually suck up a quart?

oh. also. what weight of oil do you guys use for the 318s? i used castrol 10w 40 last year, and used the same this year. its' what someone suggested last year, so i stuck with it. but as i was finishing saturday, a dock neighbor said i should have used mercruiser oil of a heavier weight?

larglo · Post by **larglo** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:23 pm

Tuck,

This is a great question, one which I have been wondering about myself.
According to a Marine Chrysler manual for the 318 engine, I downloaded off the internet, it says

For engine design M318 A,,,,,,M318 B and C, the crankcase capacity is 8 qts @ 7 degs,,,,and an additional qt when filter element is changed. (making it 9 qts)

I am assuming the filter will not be filled prior to installation?

This sounds like a very large crankcase?

I look forward to seeing others on this subject, as I am looking at buying one of those dip stick oil extractors and change mine soon.

Larry

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:57 pm

How did you get the old oil out? If through the dipstick with a pump it doesn't always drain the entire crankcase/sump. 6 quarts sounds about right. I use 10W-30 and this has worked fine. The engine is still original, no rebuild, and runs fine. What you are using probably is fine too. Remember these engines are over 30 years old, most designed to run on leaded regular (the 318 that is). So the oil you are using is probably a step ahead from what they were designed to run on, IMO.

g36 · Post by **g36** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:22 pm

first congratulations tuck on changing your oil.
did you suck it out through the dipstick hole?
i usually run straight 30w or 10w30.
6 quarts sounds about right. how much did you pull out of the engines? you could use that as a starting point for the quanity needed for replacement. were you topped off before you started the oil change if so should be the same as removed.
i try to at least put some oil in the filters as i change but since they are inverted i can only get in enough that will soak in the filter so it wont run out when turned over to screw on.
i do warm the engines before i start the oil change rather than trying to remove cold oil works pretty well.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:31 pm

15w40 thats what I have been using for years gas or diesel . a lot of crusader and Marine power also recommend it

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:37 pm

I have 360s, and I typically change about 6 quarts when I do mine.

As for oil weight - I use a straight grade SAE40. I had heard a while back that some multi-grade oils may break down in marine engines due to how much harder things are worked. Also, my engines are 30 years old, and I think straight grade is better for them.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:18 pm

15w-40 won't break down ( I would not use 10w-40 ), straight 40w kind of thick for cold starts up north , I would think . 10w30 would be ok in cold climates

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:28 am

I use 15w-40 also here on the Great Lakes. Since our boating season is basically during warm weather, that grade seems to be best for all around usage.

larglo · Post by **larglo** » Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:21 am

Tuck,

How did you get the oil out? Through the dipstick? My concern also is getting ALL the oil out, or at least the majority of it. But from what I can tell, I can't see any other way but using the dip stick method.
I think running the engine to warm up the oil is a good idea, so as to ease the flow through that small hole.

Larry

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:40 am

i used a pump with a hose thru the dispstick to extract the oil.

before starting, i took the boat out and ran it for a while to get it nice and warm, then headed back to start the oil change.

i'll keep in mind what you guys who don't like 10w40 are saying. but since it's already there, and it's what i used last year, i'll leave it until next year and then change the grade.

tks for the input.

Lawman · Post by **Lawman** » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:32 pm

Hey guys! After Changing oil with 5 quarts through dipstick (manual says 6,tube couldn't reach last quart ) and using 15-40,one motor still has a lifter noise, are these things adjustable?? Also thought about using Marvel Mystery oil... Any thoughts???

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Thu Aug 05, 2010 7:33 am

If you're using an electric pump with a plastic tube that you insert thru the dip stick, here's a little trick to get that last quart out.

After you warm the engine (oil) and insert the tube, use a little electrical tape and to wrap around and seal the gap between the dip stick tube and the plastic tube. Now pump out the oil.

The reason this works is simple. Since the dip stick tube extends to the bottom of the pan, when the oil starts to get low in the pan air gets drawn down the dip stick tube and short circuits into the pump tube stopping the flow of oil.

Hope this helps.

Lawman · Post by **Lawman** » Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:04 am

Thanx Paul. I actually did put a rag around the top and held it tight, I did notice a difference. Just a correction from my last post, my engines hold 5 quarts total (per manual), i only could get 4-4 1/2 quarts out. I have twin 1989 ML 318's