Electronic Ignition question for 318...along with a few more
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
Welcome aboard.
The blower should be an easy fix. Before you buy a knew one though, cut the two wires and apply 12 volts directly to the old one. I like to use a booster pack for such tests, they're very portable. If it works, you have a wiring issue, if it doesn't, replace it.
Sounds like you do have electronic ignition but the metal strip doesn't ring a bell.
Get a true marine charger that is ignition protected. If you have 2 battery banks (1 engine, 1 house), get a 2 bank charger or a 3 bank if you plan to expand your 12 volt system later. Hook up the charger directly to the battery side of the battery switch instead of the batteries. The fewer wires you have on the batteries the better. Disconnect one battery and try to start the engine, if it starts, you've disconnected the house battery. Mark it as such. The other will be your engine battery. I personally do not like the 1/2/ALL/OFF battery switches. If you install one, you must learn how to use it properly for proper battery/power management. You're better off with 2 ON/OFF switches, an emergency start solenoid and an ACR (some have built in emerg start). This system is idiot proof, more efficient, and safer.
Are you at Crates or Keswick Marine?
The blower should be an easy fix. Before you buy a knew one though, cut the two wires and apply 12 volts directly to the old one. I like to use a booster pack for such tests, they're very portable. If it works, you have a wiring issue, if it doesn't, replace it.
Sounds like you do have electronic ignition but the metal strip doesn't ring a bell.
Get a true marine charger that is ignition protected. If you have 2 battery banks (1 engine, 1 house), get a 2 bank charger or a 3 bank if you plan to expand your 12 volt system later. Hook up the charger directly to the battery side of the battery switch instead of the batteries. The fewer wires you have on the batteries the better. Disconnect one battery and try to start the engine, if it starts, you've disconnected the house battery. Mark it as such. The other will be your engine battery. I personally do not like the 1/2/ALL/OFF battery switches. If you install one, you must learn how to use it properly for proper battery/power management. You're better off with 2 ON/OFF switches, an emergency start solenoid and an ACR (some have built in emerg start). This system is idiot proof, more efficient, and safer.
Are you at Crates or Keswick Marine?
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
Thanks for the great suggestion with the blower... I'll try that.
I get it with the switch, but think I 'd be pretty disciplined, also cheaper with a switch... I think there just running in parallel right now.
I'm actually closing on a place in the canal off of ravenshoe, so will be docking in the back... We move next Sat...
Really looking forward to the area and learning more about these boats (Trojans)... They're pretty iconic vessels and very distinct. Wife thinks I'm nuts...
I get it with the switch, but think I 'd be pretty disciplined, also cheaper with a switch... I think there just running in parallel right now.
I'm actually closing on a place in the canal off of ravenshoe, so will be docking in the back... We move next Sat...
Really looking forward to the area and learning more about these boats (Trojans)... They're pretty iconic vessels and very distinct. Wife thinks I'm nuts...
- captainmaniac
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In that neighbourhood, Dawson's used to be the Trojan dealer. Doug Dawson (http://www.boatingwithdawsons.com/) is something like 4th or 5th generation. They got out of the marina business a few years back, but he is still a great resource.
- cclark75006
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one of the blowers on my boat did not work and Bob from beacon marine said that they can seize up if not used for a period of time, I actually tapped mine with a hammer (lightly) and it has worked ever since, conversly when you take it out before purchasing a new one see if it spins easily or if it can be freed up
1976 Trojan 360 Flybridge needin a whole lotta luvin!
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions... this forum is a great resource...
I'll have to look into the blower situation this weekend...
Unfortunately, no Seatow in Canada I believe...
Looks like there might be an issue with something on the control unit... Loose wire or something... it's the plug on the corner of the the Control unit that he was tapping. I'm going to try and trace wires back over the weekend and poke around...
I'll have to look into the blower situation this weekend...
Unfortunately, no Seatow in Canada I believe...
Looks like there might be an issue with something on the control unit... Loose wire or something... it's the plug on the corner of the the Control unit that he was tapping. I'm going to try and trace wires back over the weekend and poke around...
- ready123
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There is a service that covers Southern Georgian Bay... I believe you are in Lake Simcoe so you can swim to shore from most spotstk416 wrote:Unfortunately, no Seatow in Canada I believe...

not really but you are never too far from other boats.... it gets quite full on Summer weekends as I'm sure you will find out when you start going out there.
http://www.ontarioboatingleague.ca/page3.html
Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
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- captainmaniac
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- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
- Location: Burlington, Ontario
I did... although I'm not sure what it was specifically... I had the carb rebuilt by carbrebuilders.com, came back looking like new... replaced the ignition module, the plugs and fuel filter and she starts up everytime now...
Although this past weekend went out for an hr cruise and she sputtered and died on the lake coming home... I replaced the inline fuel filter on the water and she started right back up and we managed to get home... thankfully I had a spare on board...
I opened up the other water seperator/fuel filter yesterday and am going to replace that one as well... there were a few bits of sandy looking rust in it when I emptied it out, not that many but still a bit... I'm thinking I'll have to take out the tank when it's up over the winter and see if I can pressure wash the insides or find a cheap tank...
Few other issues with the boat listing to Port when we get going, I probably have to mess with the tabs, and the blower still doesn't work... it'll all get sorted out in time ...
Although this past weekend went out for an hr cruise and she sputtered and died on the lake coming home... I replaced the inline fuel filter on the water and she started right back up and we managed to get home... thankfully I had a spare on board...
I opened up the other water seperator/fuel filter yesterday and am going to replace that one as well... there were a few bits of sandy looking rust in it when I emptied it out, not that many but still a bit... I'm thinking I'll have to take out the tank when it's up over the winter and see if I can pressure wash the insides or find a cheap tank...
Few other issues with the boat listing to Port when we get going, I probably have to mess with the tabs, and the blower still doesn't work... it'll all get sorted out in time ...

- captainmaniac
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- Location: Burlington, Ontario
A couple of words on your last post. If the tank is metal it's most likely galvanized if it's original. These can rust on the inside over time. If so, you'll see more rust over time in the fuel/water filter. Best way is to pour out the contents into a clear glass or plastic container. I use an old plastic jar for this purpose. You'll quickly see what's up with your gas. Clear, filmy/hazy substance on the bottom of the jar is water. Brown stuff is most likely dirt or rust suspended in water. Don't get too nervous if the level is under 1/4 of the jar's contents. The filter is doing its job. Buy some replacements to keep on board. That fact that you got everything running fine after the carb rebuild/other work and then the engine sputters leads me to believe it's dirt/rust. If it was water you'd reach the point of no return eventually and the engine just wouldn't start. They don't run on water......a shame.
You can fool around with your tabs while in the water. Have your wife or someone operate each with "up" and "down" and feel the tab while you're in the water. If it each moves you're good to go. However I just found a leaky connection on my starboard tab hose a couple of days ago. They worked fine until then. Thought they might be leaking at the cylinder (outside) but when I got to the motor/pump housing I found the culprit dripping into my bilge. I think the fluid is under high pressure because when I tried operating the tabs a few days back I got some smoke in the cockpit. I THINK what happened is that the fluid (ATF fluid) "spit" out from the pump connection onto the hot muffler. It's a direct shot.
Anyhoo..... cut off s small section of the hose where it leaked and tightened down the clamps on both side. Put in about 8 oz of ATF fluid into the reservoir and followed the instructions for getting rid of any trapped air in the lines. The tabs work perfectly now. And they are original to the boat - 33 years old.
I'm just going to guess that these are Insta Tabs not Bennett. If so you can contact them at http://www.insta-tab.com. They are very helpful. You can refill the reservoir with standard ATF available at any auto or general (ala WalMart) outlet. Or up your way - Canadian Tire.
Once you get those tabs going you'll find a world of difference in getting the boat up onto plane quicker and it will be a smoother ride.
Hope this long post helps you a bit.
You can fool around with your tabs while in the water. Have your wife or someone operate each with "up" and "down" and feel the tab while you're in the water. If it each moves you're good to go. However I just found a leaky connection on my starboard tab hose a couple of days ago. They worked fine until then. Thought they might be leaking at the cylinder (outside) but when I got to the motor/pump housing I found the culprit dripping into my bilge. I think the fluid is under high pressure because when I tried operating the tabs a few days back I got some smoke in the cockpit. I THINK what happened is that the fluid (ATF fluid) "spit" out from the pump connection onto the hot muffler. It's a direct shot.
Anyhoo..... cut off s small section of the hose where it leaked and tightened down the clamps on both side. Put in about 8 oz of ATF fluid into the reservoir and followed the instructions for getting rid of any trapped air in the lines. The tabs work perfectly now. And they are original to the boat - 33 years old.
I'm just going to guess that these are Insta Tabs not Bennett. If so you can contact them at http://www.insta-tab.com. They are very helpful. You can refill the reservoir with standard ATF available at any auto or general (ala WalMart) outlet. Or up your way - Canadian Tire.
Once you get those tabs going you'll find a world of difference in getting the boat up onto plane quicker and it will be a smoother ride.
Hope this long post helps you a bit.
Randy P
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"