By the way I have since cleaned off all that "green" and sprayed with BOESHIELD.
RWS
What Do You Guys Think About Re-Using These Seacocks ?
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RWS
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2857
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
- Location: West Coast Florida
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1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Guys,
As I'm still deciding which way to go on my seacocks there's a couple of installation aspects I can't figure out. My question here is related to "clocking" and "bolt clearence".
I've read a bunch of threads on installing seacocks and it appears for the flanged versions you do a dry fit to determine the appropriate locations for the through-bolts, drill the holes for the bolts, then do the install. What I don't understand is how you index, or clock, the valve in the particular position you want. I'm thinking one way would be to use shims but I haven't read about anyone doing that and I don't see them for sale anywhere so that tells me that might not be the normal process.
Lets say I want to install "Layout A" below and I want the valve clocked so that the handles face inward for easy access to them. It seems to me that it's basically a luck factor as to how close you can get to your desired location because the strainer is in a fixed position and can't be changed. The other question is regarding clearence for the through bolts for the seacock flange. If you can't really dictate exactly where the valve ends up how do you avoid the issue of the through bolts interfering with the strainer?
If I use seperate components like in Layout B below it seems like you have total control over the resulting valve position. With this layout you can rotate the through hole to any position and get the resulting valve clocking to where ever you want. And you would simply attach the strainer lastly in the process.
I feel dumb cause I never read about these issues so I must be missing something really simple. Please advise!
As I'm still deciding which way to go on my seacocks there's a couple of installation aspects I can't figure out. My question here is related to "clocking" and "bolt clearence".
I've read a bunch of threads on installing seacocks and it appears for the flanged versions you do a dry fit to determine the appropriate locations for the through-bolts, drill the holes for the bolts, then do the install. What I don't understand is how you index, or clock, the valve in the particular position you want. I'm thinking one way would be to use shims but I haven't read about anyone doing that and I don't see them for sale anywhere so that tells me that might not be the normal process.
Lets say I want to install "Layout A" below and I want the valve clocked so that the handles face inward for easy access to them. It seems to me that it's basically a luck factor as to how close you can get to your desired location because the strainer is in a fixed position and can't be changed. The other question is regarding clearence for the through bolts for the seacock flange. If you can't really dictate exactly where the valve ends up how do you avoid the issue of the through bolts interfering with the strainer?
If I use seperate components like in Layout B below it seems like you have total control over the resulting valve position. With this layout you can rotate the through hole to any position and get the resulting valve clocking to where ever you want. And you would simply attach the strainer lastly in the process.
I feel dumb cause I never read about these issues so I must be missing something really simple. Please advise!
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RWS
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2857
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
- Location: West Coast Florida
- Contact:
I have the same scoops on mine.
Can't remember if it's layout A or B.
Wiah I could help you on the delamination issue but I can't.
While you're in the process of doing it, adding the fresh water flush and crash pumps option will cost you only a couple of extra ball valves and some additional fittings.
I've never used mine, but tested the once and was AMAZED at how much water they moved in a short amount of time.
PRICELESS
RWS
Can't remember if it's layout A or B.
Wiah I could help you on the delamination issue but I can't.
While you're in the process of doing it, adding the fresh water flush and crash pumps option will cost you only a couple of extra ball valves and some additional fittings.
I've never used mine, but tested the once and was AMAZED at how much water they moved in a short amount of time.
PRICELESS
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Mark,
If you drop me an email with your number, I can give you a call. I just did this the past winter.
Bob
Rdunne14@comcast.net
Layout b is what I did + the groco sec valve on top
If you drop me an email with your number, I can give you a call. I just did this the past winter.
Bob
Rdunne14@comcast.net
Layout b is what I did + the groco sec valve on top
1988 10m mid cabin