GM vs Chrysler power-recommendations please help!

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classicf25
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Posts: 88
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:19 pm
Location: Hudson, Florida

how do you determine if the "take out motor is good?&qu

Post by classicf25 »

I understand that the used parts are just "used" but if we have a parts & labor warranty with a reman it must be worth something on the block? Providing of course that we are dealing with a reputable company. It seems like the other stuff we can replace easier if necessary-especially if we have 2 motors to scavage from... But again, I really do not know the mechanical end of things. Now I am really not sure what to do... Take the chance on the one good "take out" motor or do the reman block and either way use all the free parts from both(2) motors available to complete. Still have to bottom paint, etc. What to do? Need to get in the water soon as possible but have a limited budget due to excessive freeloaders!!
jav
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 11:32 am
Location: MA

Post by jav »

warranties are only as good as the fine print, and most never even read it- let alone understand it. IE- lets say you buy a reman long block from company A. you have company B dress and install the engine. The engine faills. Company B will blame company A's engin. Company A will balk until it it feels comfortable that the dressing and/or installation weren't contibutory or the whole cuase of the failure. Even if they determine that in fact it was a base engine failure, many will only cover that which you bought from them on a repair or replace basis. That means they'll deal with the engine on a skid- you'r responsible for removing the engine, taking all the auxilliary add ons off, and getting the fialed block back to them. The mechanic (company B) won't do all this extra work for free becuase the failure wasn't thier fault. Often - it becomes a pissing match between all 3 parties.

About the only way to get a real no quible warranty is to buy the engine and installation from the same party. This can get real expensive becuase the installer builds into the price- mark-up on the base engine AND some funny money to deal with the statistical certainty that some jobs will need to be done twice.
todd brinkerhoff
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Location: Finger Lakes, NY

Post by todd brinkerhoff »

My suggestion is to take those motors to a reputable local engine builder that understands marine engines, and have him "refresh" a motor with new rings, bearings, seals etc. It will be your cheapest and most reliable bet for your budget. I wouldn't just throw one of those engines in without someone of knowledge going through and doing a basic rebuild, IMHO.
1991 Trojan International 10.8 Meter Express hull# 003 - 454 Crusaders
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

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jddens
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Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:02 pm
Location: Northern CA

Post by jddens »

FYI.....an idea of total cost......I had my starboard 350 rebuilt during the winter. Marina did all the work and the total ended up close to $6500......that was with new water pumps, oil cooler and a total rebuild only reusing pistons, rods, and cam....even the block ended up being changed out. Most bolt on's were reused as well........runs great now, good as new. Plan on 10-30% over estimate as there will be unknowns..........John
1972 Trojan Sea Raider F30 - FI 350's "Time Warp"
1998 Kawasaki ZXi 1100
1972 Chevy Fleetside Shortbed hotrod.......450hp
10.5 Newport Inflatable w/15hp Rude
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