Looking for advice on F26

[prowlersfish]

Trojan use silicon bronze on the rail bolts , if there rusty they are not OEM . They did not use SS on they cleat bolts for good reason SS is much weaker and the reg. bolts still lasted for years . I still believe stainless still will be strong enough for the cleats . SS has its faults and there are places not to use it , like shaft flange bolts . In that case they will come loose and or break .

SS bolts has a nick name "Butter bolts"

[Nolbry]

Hi Prowlersfish. I've been out of town and as of tomorrow I will be out of town until after mid-September.
You may well be right about the rail stanchion bolts. When I removed them I had the impression that they were bronze with a nickel or chromium plate, but I could be wrong. The bolts were not rusted, just corroded. The T-nuts into which they screw were very badly rusted and mostly disintegrating.

I replaced the rail stanchion bolts with larger diameter stainless steel bolts. These bolts can be under a large tensile load if someone yanks hard or pushes hard on the rail. Incidentally, I added an extra rail stanchion midway between the rail's aft anchor point and the original first stanchion as you move forward.

About stainless, I have owned several cruising sailboats. Stainless fasteners seem to be the fasteners of choice for cleats, winches, stanchions and through-deck hardware in general. I believe there are different grades of stainless - would that be correct do you think?

Cheers,
Nolbry

[prowlersfish]

Correct , plated bronze . There are different grades of SS for sure . But you will find a high grade bolt stronger , SS will be fine in 98% of the time . , more then Strong enough . Place I would not use them ? shaft couplers , and most engine bolts .

SS can corroded of time to . with out oxygen SS starts to corrode . there is oxygen in water so its great under water . Some thing to thing about when you seal it up .( would I worry ? NO )