Bilge Pump Wiring

BMILLER · Post by **BMILLER** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:15 am

I'm getting ready to install all new bilge pumps in my F28. The PO used outdoor electrical wiring (14/3) to install the 3 wires for the forward pump. The wire is is good shape and supported well. Can/should I keep this setup or rip it out and put in new dedicated 12v wiring. My new pump only will draw 5 amps.

EVERY step with this boat is 1 forward. 6 backwards. Doubtfull if it will get used this year.

Mike Kulp · Post by **Mike Kulp** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:33 am

If the wire is solid core it must go. I would remove it and install marine wiring, stranded, tinned to resist corrosion and proper size for draw and length of run.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:42 am

I have to recommend marine grade wire, especially in the bilge. The copper will be tinned to prevent corrosion, along with other more desirable physical traits. Keep the wire high and dry. I like to use heat shrink tubing for sealing the connections. Use the kind that is adhesive lined and it will completely seal the connection.

If you stick to doing what's absolutely necessary such as those that affect safety and runnability, you may get her to a point where you can at least get her in the water and enjoy the season while tackling the rest of the projects along the way one at a time.

In the last link, you'll find the specs for sizing the wire based on load and length. Bilge pumps are considered a safety or high priority system so look up the 3% voltage drop.

http://www.marinco.com/productline/adhe ... eat-shrink
http://www.marinco.com/productline/wire-cable
http://www.marinco.com/page/wire-tech-data

yorklyn · Post by **yorklyn** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:44 am

I agree with mike. solid wire should not be used on a boat, watch out for wire nuts too. The tintied marine wire holds up alot better in the long run.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:27 pm

And that make 4 on the marine grade

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:39 pm

im doing what the guys told me to do. one of my bildge pumps was wired with speaker wire

take a look at this...speaker wire lead was connected with butt connectors

yorklyn · Post by **yorklyn** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:43 pm

YIKES!!!! Nothing like the smell of melting plastic!

Allen Sr · Post by **Allen Sr** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 4:22 pm

Make that 5 for marine grade wire!

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 4:53 pm

ill be the 6th guess i should have said deff use marine grade in my picture! the things ive pulled out of this boat is just unreal!

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:26 am

whenI got my boat from the previous owner there were 120 v WIRE NUTS on the bilge pump wires !

WHAT, ME WORRY ?

RWS

BMILLER · Post by **BMILLER** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:46 am

Guess that answers it. Just wondered because the existing setup is that 14/3 stranded copper in a orange outer covering.....................

Unfortunately, its in the water and far from home and nowhere on this lake can you pull her out and work on it yourself. All marinas have the same policy...........real bummer for sure. It just makes refitting a MUCH more time consuming project. And honestly, if I'd pull her and ship her home, I'd find hundreds of additional issues the PO fouled up. Then, I'd just give up and scrap her.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:11 pm

BMILLER wrote:Guess that answers it. Just wondered because the existing setup is that 14/3 stranded copper in a orange outer covering.....................

Unfortunately, its in the water and far from home and nowhere on this lake can you pull her out and work on it yourself. All marinas have the same policy...........real bummer for sure. It just makes refitting a MUCH more time consuming project. And honestly, if I'd pull her and ship her home, I'd find hundreds of additional issues the PO fouled up. Then, I'd just give up and scrap her.

Almost sounds like extention cord cable was used.

Don't get discouraged. Just tackle one issue at a time and enjoy her along the way. Take care of the safety and runnability issues first. And don't for one minute think that perhaps by having bought another boat you may have gotten away from this, most likely, it would have some issue that needs addressing as well. And new boats? don't even go there, not saying they are all bad, but I've seen some pretty scarry things in the process of outfitting new ones. That's just a result of carelessness and assembly line profitability. You want to find everything that is wrong, that way you can make it right and safe for you and yours, and enjoy your time on the water knowing that you have minimized the chances of something going wrong at the most inopportune time.

BMILLER · Post by **BMILLER** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 4:29 pm

Gotta laugh.....till get all these things fixed, I'll probably be to old to us it...................

)

yorklyn · Post by **yorklyn** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:19 pm

Don't get discourged! Little steps! I started by reading this book

http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechan ... 118&sr=8-1

I would then start eliminating the most hazardous stuff first. Check the tanks for corrosion. fuel lines, if really old replacing them is pretty easy. Is the bilge blower working and wired correctly with the correct wire? go over all wiring in the bilge. if its residential romex get rid of it. get rid of any wire nuts. Try to eliminate the obvious fire hazzards first. I would then take a some time on the weekends and sort out any rats nests of wires. make sure everything is properly secured and is routed properly. It seems overwhelming at first but as you dig through everything and make proper improvements it actually becomes somewhat "Fun" (don't laugh!) There is a huge piece of mind and satisfaction of knowing every inch of your boat inside and out. If you have an issue with something in the future ,chances are you will know exactly where to start looking. For what it's worth I can relate.
Good Luck,
Todd