White vinyl headliner, with or without holes?

[yorklyn]

Trying to find new headliner material for my 10 meter. Seems like everyone at the Annapolis boat show is currently using solid white vinyl without the the pinholes in it. I really like the look of the solid material but wondering if i should be concerned about the lack of air circulation? Can I just use regular white vinyl without a foam back or is there actually a special "headliner" vinyl?

[gettaway]

I too am contemplating this issue, I havent seen a newer boat in years with the old pin hole auto headliner

[75 Tri Cabin]

You can use what you like. Just use a good marine grade material. We put them in all the time in boats. Seaquest, Capitano, Nautolex and Stamoid are great. Only problems as with any headliner is water leaking in. Just make sure it's going to stay dry. We use a hose and water down the area that we are going to put the new headliner in, to check for leaks. I also put in insulation in at the time, if there is room, helps with heat and air condition retention. Next week we are replacing ours in the aft cabin and main salon. Will be using solid. Just stay away from the automotive grade materials.

[RWS]

yet another advantage of the 10 meter non-mid cabin.....

the vacuum formed cabin has a built in headliner with the A/C ducts built in and ZERO VINYL !

RWS

[yorklyn]

Jack,
does regular marine vinyl have enough stretch to be used as a headliner or is there a special "headliner" version? any suggestions on where to get the metal strips that you wrap the material around and staple (I have no idea what its called)? I was also looking at this track but I'm not sure if its necessary http://www.fabricmate.com/yachts.php
I'm thinking about spraying closed cell foam before I install the headliner. I can only get around 1 inch in most areas but it will prevent condensation and and be waterproof. I was trying to decide if it would be worth it , It sounds like it might be.
Any tips or suggestions would really be appreciated!
I
Thanks

PS. RWS, No Wood stringers! Fiberglass Headliners! I Hate you Express Guys!! LOL!!!

[RWS]

the sad truth is (i believe) that when they rolled out the mid cabin they killed all those innovative technical items from the original design simply due to costs.

vacuum liner in engine room and lazarette

built into hull waste and potable water tanks

electric doors

woodless stringers

engines forward for best placement/low bow rise

(consequential) smaller props @ higer gear ratio

fewer teak swim platforms

modular construction of bulkheads for strength

My opinion is that these technical features while very innovative and worthy, did not influence the actual sale of boats

the hull and the established hype and styling remained the same.

From a competitive cost cutting/sales results standpoint it would make sense to kill the more expensive production features and related costs if they do not result in increased sales.

These boats were not engineered, marketed, or "sold" with the concept that they would be continue to be used 30-40 years later. Simply not part of the plan.

Is this correct?

RWS

[Big D]

Yorklyn, the product you are looking for is called a tacking strip. Do a web search for upholstery or headliner tacking strip. You'll find a lot of automotive applications pop up if you look up "headliner". Try to find the longest strips you can if buying lengths. It also comes in rolls. Don't limit yourself to metal, they are okay but there are now plastic and vinyl strips. Just don't use the cardboard or hardboard kind.

[yorklyn]

Thanks Big D,
Vinyl or plastic would seem to make more sense.
RWS,
I wanted a 10.8 sport fish or an 11 meter but the wife insisted on the 10 meter mid cabin for the kids. I'm glad we went with the 10 meter because its plenty of boat for what we use it for. I had always assumed that the express and mid cabin were the same construction with a different layout. I have been amazed with all of the differences between the two. We sleep/slept/plan to sleep again on our boat alot and I wouldnt trade all that space in the mid cabin . If we had a place on the water or had the boat closer to us and used it as a day boat , I'd be all over the express. I am a big fan of that engine room and stringer system!
The mid cabin does have a built in water tank under the salon floor (its a son of a itch to cut out!)
I would agree with your statement completly.

[75 Tri Cabin]

It will stretch fine. It stretches better one way than the other. See which way you need to have it stretch. They make a product, you can get at Sailrite, it has a 360 stretch. It costs a lot more. Just plan out what you need to do carefully, and I am sure you will be fine with the standard material. We use steam on the material to get it to do what we need. You can use a heat gun but be very careful! Just don't rush it. The plastic track is definetly what you want. Do not buy material that is classified as seconds, you will have trouble with them including Sunbrella, stay with 1 st run material. Make sure you use stainless staples, not galvanized, when attaching the material to the boat.The cost of doing it right the first time is cheaper than doing it again. You will need a helper. This is why getting upholstery and canvas done costs so much. Everyone I hire, I start them out removing staples out of seats and cushions. They will in about 15 min say this is way harder and takes more time than they thought. It's like painting, it's all in your prep work.

[yorklyn]

Thanks Jack,
I think I'm just going to put it back the same way that it was. it had the metal tacking strip before but I'll use plastic this time. here's a pic of what im working with.

[Freddy]

I'm thinking about spraying closed cell foam before I install the headliner. I can only get around 1 inch in most areas but it will prevent condensation and and be waterproof. I was trying to decide if it would be worth it , It sounds like it might be.
Any tips or suggestions would really be appreciated!

You may want to re-think the idea of using closed cell foam to prevent leaks from reaching the new headliner. It would prevent water from getting through but the water will still make it up to the spray foam. This could cause problems including freeze/thaw isssues during the winter months if it freezes where you live. Addressing all leaks before spraying would be a very good idea but any subsequent penetration may then go unnoticed. Maybe I'm just paranoid...

[yorklyn]

I'm rebeding virtually everything on the boat after I paint it so I hope all the leaks will be gone. The main area of concern is the area where the windsheild bolts through. it has never leaked in this area but i do not want a leak to go unnoticed and rot coring material. If I foam it I plan on leaving bolts that I may need to access later uncoated (bow rail bolts etc). still trying to talk myself into doing the foam as it will be a PITA to do properly however it wont cost me a dime which is a plus

[75 Tri Cabin]

Yorkln, Freddy is right make sure you don't have any leaks. That spray foam will not be fun if it holds water. With just the little space you have to work with, it probably would be better to leave it alone. If the foam expands to far you have a nasty job of shaving it down to the 1 inch mark.

[yorklyn]

We sprayed the inside of our work trailer with 3lb roofing foam when we first got it (had extra from a job) it took about 1hr to spray it and two days with a 4 inch grinder to shave it back. If I do the boat I'll use 2lb closed cell and really take my time with the spraying. I need to check to be sure I can get at least 1in of foam behind the headliner. there shouldnt be any voids to collect moisture as the foam should be compleatly stuck to the substrate .