Leaky "10G" Plumbing Fittings

[bigralph]

My 1990 F32 has white poly tubing throughout for plumbing. The tubing only has "10G" stamped on the service lines; the lines to the bathroom faucet are 3/8". I think the 10G tubing is 15mm in size and I haven't' been able to find the tubing at Lowes, West Marine or Boater's Warehouse. I found some 1/2" PEC that was close. Anyway, here's the issue. Anytime there is pressure in the line, most of the fittings (T, service connectors, bibs) leak. The fittings are black plastic, screw compression type. I tightened one with a tool and that made the other 2 fitting on the T leak. It seems that anytime I touch, and I mean that literally, touch one of the fittings I make it worse. It seems like my best option is to re-plumb with modern PEC. Right now, I would really like a temporary patch to determine if my hot water heater works. There are no isolation valves on the boat. The only "valve" in the line is a check valve from the cold supply line into the hot water tank. Once I pressurize the system, the hot water tank is filled. Once the leaks emerge, I'm carrying gallon jugs from the sink faucet to the swim platform. Long term, I need isolation valves and proper fittings.

I tried using "Magic Tape" under the sink to slow the leak. The work space is too tight and the only thing "magic" about that tape is that $10 disappeared from my wallet.

Any suggestions on a temporary patch are appreciated. This is pretty frustrating, actually the only real frustration with living aboard so far.

Thanks.

[prowlersfish]

Do you have a pressure regulator ? I am assuming your using dock water ?

[Allen Sr]

I have the same 'black' fittings on my 84 F36. Haven't been able to find them anywhere as of yet. If you do find them please post on here where you did. FYI Lowe's and Home Depot are useless in this area. Also measure your tubing I believe you will find it is 1/2" and not 15mm unless a PO has 'jury rigged' 15mm into a 1/2" system and thats why you have leaks at the fittings.

[boatsnbars]

I have the same stuff in my 1988 F-36. I am reworking some of my plumbing to make winterizing easier. Check some RV/camper supply sites for replacement parts. I have not looked too hard for it because I am using PVC fittings from local stores for my changes. I use a little teflon tape when ever I remove a fitting. Then just snug it up with a wrench, but don't over tighten.

[alexander38]

try this, http://www.pexsupply.com/SharkBite-Fitt ... Qgod2ScA9g they work on my old pex tubing I use the new stuff between the breaks.. I get them at HD

[bigralph]

Do you have a pressure regulator ? I am assuming your using dock water ?

I am using dock-side water and haven't added a PR; I don't think there is one. However, when the dock water is turned off and there is no pressure source, the fittings still leak.

try this, http://www.pexsupply.com/SharkBite-Fitt ... Qgod2ScA9g they work on my old pex tubing I use the new stuff between the breaks.. I get them at HD

I'm heading to HD after laundry to see if I can find these. thanks.

[yorklyn]

I am getting ready to tackle the same issue. I actually purchased some spare fittings years ago at jackson marine on the north east river . not sure if they sill have any as I havent been there in years.
I know the 15mm and 1/2inch are not interchangeable, they are very close but will eventually fail (found that out the hard way a while back!) I thought the stuff in our boats was 15mm???? 1/2 inch is readly availabe so I can't imagine it being that easy!! LOL! Home depot stocks Watts fittings which also makes the marine version Seatek fittings. As far as I can tell they are the same. I'm not sure if they will fit the old stuff in our boats (15mm vs 1/2 inch) I think I am going to bite the bullet and re-run all my lines with new pex and new fittings just to be safe and eliminate issues down the road. The pipe is cheap but the fittings add up. Going to try to use a few manifolds to help eliminate some fittings. I will be figuring this out in the next few weeks and post my results.

[Big D]

Check these guys out. I know there are SAE to METRIC adapters for all the sizes, just can't remember the make. I will check to see if I have a few lying around that might have an indentification or paperwork to jog my memory of where I got them.
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-573- ... tings.aspx

[BobCT]

Guys,

I know I posted this information here a while ago. The watts brand fittings that HD/lowes sell work great. I've used both the fittings and added shutoff valves along the way.

Bob

[Big D]

Pretty sure the metric stuff is Whale. Think you can find available adapters and fittings here:
http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/siteFi ... onnect.pdf

[yorklyn]

I've been thinking about this and I'm guessing the issue I had with a replacement fitting was using a 15mm fitting instead of a 1/2inch. The reason for this is 15mm = .590551 inches. so if the tubing was 1/2inch and a 15mm fitting was used it would be slightly bigger and more likley to blow off.

Bob, You havent had an issue with the HD fittings?

[bigralph]

UPDATE: 10G seems to equal 3/8". ATM, the new Shark bite fittings for the sink are holding, however the downstream toilet that I rushed and didn't add a cutoff to, is busted. ATM,I'm in about $200 because the fittings are expensive. I tried to patch, as opposed to gut and replace, and I think I'm using extra fittings to do so. However, downstream of the kitchen sink, I added a 3/8" to 1/2" reducer, added new "shark" 1/2" PEC line purchased from HD, then went to a 1/2" T, from the T, a 1/2" to 3/8" sink adapter, new faucet line, new faucet. Immediately downstream of the sink T's, I added a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer to go back to the existing conditions. This is not a permanent solution. As I type, my holding tank is full and I'm ignoring a small drip on the the existing toilet T go so I can see if the hot water heating element works. I'll run a little hot water, into my shower pan, I know, to brush my teeth before hitting the rack.

By the way, the reason I chose 1/2" for working lines is because HD (on Military in Norfolk) doesn't carry very many 3/8" fittings.

And if you want lessons learned from a noob: 2 trips to Home Depot and still leaking. Oh well, coffee in the morning sun rise will be awesome and plan to "work from home" tomorrow, so I'll have a great view with great neighbors tomorrow.

Someday, I install these stereo components I have locked away ready as my "first boat project."

[yorklyn]

Went to Home depot today. I took a piece of the origional trojan waterline with me. the guy there recoginized it and said it was Quest /pex line. he said he would not trust the sharkbite fittings on the old lines. I had looked into replacing the lines using pex and plastic fittings with ss crimp clamps. I counted up the fittings needed and decided to simply use all sharkbite fittings with new pex tubing. The cost of the fittings is high but they should be alot easier to work with in tite places compared to using the crip tool with the other fittings. Just under $300 for everything. I may do it tomorrow . I'll let you know how it goes.

[BobCT]

Todd,

I've used the Watts fittings for three seasons now and they haven't leaked a drop. I can post the actual part numbers if that would help. I could have sworn I did that already but can't find the post except for a shutoff valve.

I have probably ten fittings now throughout the boat.

Bob

[RWS]

WOW !

I have been replacing mine (1983 International) with plain old brass fittings.

After all the riunning around and trying different approaches, I went to a REAL plumbing supply house with all my stuff.

They looked at it and showed me how to swap the plastic stuff fittings/locking washers/o-rings out with standard brass.

I am now using a compression fitting with a feurle and a brass piece that goes into the end of the plastic tube.

WORKS GREAT AND NO LEAKS !

Just my experience, FWIW.

RWS