ELECTRICAL ISSUE, HOME BASED, QUESTION

[aaronbocknek]

morning guys. i know that this is not boat based, but, i have a question regarding an issue brad and i are experiencing at the house. hopefully, there are a few electricians out there that can assist. both of us have traveled and lived in europe and the UK. we've collected a few small kitchen appliances that run on european 220v. when brad had the kitchen remodeled in 2010, he had his electrician install a step up converter in the basement. it is a 110-220 3000w converter box made by simran. there are 4 plugs on the front, 2 110 outlets, 1 european 220 outlet, and 1 UK 220 outlet (and yes, the european outlet is different from the UK outlet.) the box uses a US 110 grounded plug that is plugged into a standard outlet, and the UK 220 line feeds up to the kitchen and is wired to 2 UK outlets. a few months ago, the 220 side stopped working but was still feeding power to the outlets at 110 volts. so, last week, we replaced it with another one of the same make and model. plugged everything in and when i tried to use it for the coffeemaker, smoke started coming out of the unit, followed by the smell of insulation. as the coffeemaker ended it's cycle, POW!!!!!!! the fuse in the unit blew. after it cooled down, i removed the 30a250v fast blow fuse which was scored and cracked. replaced it, turned on the converter and then tried it again. this time with the water kettle. as the water reached full boil, POW!!!!!!!!!! the fuse blew again.
the appliances in question are rated each as follows......... coffeemaker.....2100-3100 volts, kettle 2000-3150 volts. my question is this. is it possible that these appliances spike and then blow the fuse? i've suggested that we replace it with one that is rated at 5000 watts, that way it gives the appliances some 'breathing room' in case they spike. he's not convinced that is the solution, but i do. so, guys, put your collective heads together and give me some suggestions. i'm still leaning towards the higher wattage unit.
thanks.
aaron

[bjanakos]

My wife came here via Belgium and I installed a 220v outlet in the kitchen for a few of her appliances (especially the waffle makers)

The installation was nothing special... It was simply a dual 20A breaker just like the ones that are used for air conditioners and clothes dryers. I ran it up through existing conduit then branched off into it's box with a dual prong euro socket. I did not need any converters; it's pure 220v. I think the difference in UK, other than the socket, is the current frequency, but I don't see how that matters much with analog appliances.


It's difficult to tell, but based on your symptoms, it seems that one bank of your converter failed which is why you only had 110v. After replacing it and having a new set of problems, I might contend that your new unit is faulty.

I would start by not using any appliances right now and get a multimeter on that thing to see what is going on.

[larryeddington]

Our 220 will work on those appliances the difference is it is 60 cycles and European is 50 cycles, clocks and motor driven things do not work write on our 220 but toaster and coffee maker "should" unless it has a clock based timer or has a motor. IMO.

Just wire in a 220 to your European plug. as said before 220 is two 120 circuits.

[prowlersfish]

I suspect you have a hot lead crossed with a ground . but all that could be check with a meter . Now with that said I would not even try to diagnose this over the net . Without seeing exactly what's been done and checking it properly It would only be a guess by anyone .A dangerous guess ,Call a pro before you hurt your self or burn the house down .This goes for anyone unless you have clear understanding of A.C.

Sorry to be so to the point but don't now how else to say it .

[Stripermann2]

I suspect you have a hot lead crossed with a ground . but all that could be check with a meter . Now with that said I would not even try to diagnose this over the net . Without seeing exactly what's been done and checking it properly It would only be a guess by anyone .A dangerous guess ,Call a pro before you hurt your self or burn the house down .This goes for anyone unless you have clear understanding of A.C.

Sorry to be so to the point but don't now how else to say it .

Gotta agree with Paul, have a professional look at it. You'll sleep better!

[RWS]

220.......221

whatever it takes !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diqQ7gRVfYo


RWS

[LandVF36]

Aaron,
First, I totally agree with Paul. I've held an electrician's lic in the past (many years ago) so I get asked questions all the time. However, I wont give much for answers unless I can go on site and measure things. I'd love to help, but I'm in MN, so a little far away to just pop over some day to help.

You mention your two deivces with power requirements (which you listed as volts but I'm sure you meant watts). Both had requirements over 3000 but your converter was over only rated for 3000 so its likely that you are just over-loading the converter.

As noted above, if all the things you are running are 50/60hz compatible then just have an electrician wire those outlets to the 220V in your electrical panel.

[aaronbocknek]

hey guys, thanks for all the great responses. and you're right. it was 3000 watts, not volts. i was tired when i typed the original........ brad had a professional electrician do the initial install, and he is the one that purchased the converter. i tend to agree that we are overloading the thing, but, these made in china POS things really scare the hell out of me. originally the set up was for two 110 lines but, from what i gather, it was prohibitive cost wise. i don't know. i was not there, and it's brads $$, so i didn't press the issue. sometimes one has to just smile and nod. he is going to have his guy look into this, but, one thing that really bothers me, and will be corrected once he gets back from the UK is a CORRECT UK, 3 plug adapter. when i saw the initial install i sort of shook my head. this is currently the set up.
the 110 plug into the 110 outlet. a 220 wire, i'm assuming it's the correct gauge, runs from the butlers pantry where the uk outlets are to the area where the converter is in the basement. so brian, brads electrician, wires a US 220 male plug to the wire. then, he plugs THAT into a UK version that has a US female adapter. that whole mess then plugs into the UK outlet on the converter. (one of his missions while he is over there is to go to a UK ELECTRICAL SUPPLY HOUSE, AND GET THE PROPER ITEM TO BE WIRED CORRECTLY. he's on a mission.
as for the 50 vs 60, this unitl steps down the 60 to 50. but, to be honest, i don't trust it. PERSONALLY, i'd scrap the entire set up and go with the US versions. but, again, not my house. i can only suggest. and we ALL know how that can go sometimes.
thanks again guys.
aaron