1987 10 meter mid cabin complete restoration.

[larryeddington]

All looks great, many times over time people have pointed out that rubber gas lines are not USCG approved. Only a flexible connection at final fuel point to engine fuel pump. Has there been a change to using rubber? Not being critical as looks good, but just learning if something new.

[yorklyn]

Larry,
My understanding is no rubber fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. You need a anti siphon valve at the tank, need to use A1 fuel line and it needs to be secured really well (can't remember but its like every 6 or 8 inches).

[comodave]

I see that you have Blue Seas ACR's installed. I put 2 of them in my boat to charge the house bank from either engine, It looks like that is what you have. The problem I ran into with them is when you are plugged into shore power and if you are using a smart battery charger that will send power to each battery bank as needed, the ACRs will connect the 3 banks when they see the voltage rise due to the 110 volt charger. They are not able to determine where the charging originates, from the engine alternator or the 110 volt charger. I contacted Blue Seas support and they told me to proceed with my plan of using a 110 volt relay to break the ground lead from the ACRs when there is shore power connected to the boat. I did not see anything about this in the ACR documentation. It is a fairly simple fix, about $10 for the relay and running some ground wiring. Or they said to put a switch in the ground from the ACRs and open the ground when plugged into shore power. I liked the relay so it will automatically disable the ACRs when plugged in. If you want the email they sent to me, send me a message and I will forward it to you. Maybe you already did this or have a different style of 110 volt charger.

[yorklyn]

I had originally bought a mastervolt charger and then realized I would have the problem that you mentioned. I did some research and found out if you use blue seas systems p12 charge with their ACR's the charger communicates with the ACR's so they do not combine the batteries while charging.
I do like the Idea of using a relay, I had not thought of that? good to know if I ever need to replace the charger in a hurry and cant find a blue sea one. Thanks

[larryeddington]

Yorky I looked it up and I agree with your interpretation. Interesting our boats are built with (at least the ones I have seen) use copper from tank to close to engine, then flex to fuel pump then metal from fuel pump to carb (which does not have to be copper)

In any case nice neat work.

[yorklyn]

Thanks Larry.
My original copper lines had seen better days. From the research I did , the rubber hose seemed like a safer replacement then going back with rigid.

[yorklyn]

Getting closer! Chart plotter is installed as well as the sonar, wifi and sonic hub. still need to "tidy" up the wiring a bit more and install the fuel sensors that I purchased from G36 (thanks again Gregg!)

[yorklyn]

getting really close but of course the funds are dwindling .
Finally finished the duct work for the ac and got it completely finished. purchased new 30 x 12 bennett trim tabs with the eic controls and got them installed. made new panels for the radar arch and covered them with white vinyl, engines and trannies are filled with oil and just filled up antifreeze. replaced the wires running through the windshield frame for the starboard windshield wiper and mid ship light. the port and center wipers motors were totally seized. I decided not to replace them since I dont ever remember actually trying to use them anyway. I pulled the wires but left the motors for them in place for now. I spent three days fixing the cracked coaming boxes with west system plastic boat epoxy (flexible and adheres to plastic better than standard epoxy). they should be painted and finished tomorrow.
Finally purchased and installed my batteries, all seven of them! I now have 4 trojan T105's wired in series and parallel to give me a 450ah house bank. each engine has a new interstate starting battery and the generator has its own battery that is stand alone and not connected to anything else.
My surveyor came by the other evening and seemed very impressed! I am going to try to schedule someone from my machine shop to come by for the initial startup , hopefully soon!
















Here's a glimpse of my "New" project! its my buddies boat that he just bought. Naturally he's one of my only friends who actually helped me with my boat, he was the one who helped me install the engines and paint the entire bilge! I'm re-wiring the batteries. basically he wanted the same set up as I installed on my boat so at least Its pretty straight forward and sitting in MY driway!!! LOL

[P-Dogg]

The battery-mounted fuses are a nice touch. Sometimes its hard to sell people on safety.

[P-Dogg]

Oh yeah...

one of my only friends who actually helped me with my boat

Sometimes its easy to tell who your real friends are!

[yorklyn]

Boxes almost finished. decided to let the old girl get some sun on her stern today!! had the guys from the machine shop over to help me "try" to start her up. flipped the starboard engine switch, started to turn over for .0002 seconds and blew the 150 amp battery terminal fuse ( apparently they work rather well!) I have something screwed up with the new engine harness. I began going over everything from the starter back but so far everything matches up exactly to the wiring diagram in the engine manual for the delco est distributors that show all the harness connections. luckily i went overboard with the wire loom and tape making it a PITA to trace.

[mikeandanne]

Todd, a question for you....is the accepted fuse for an engine start battery ...150 amps, because I am thinking that a starter will draw that and more...maybe I am wrong but worth checking before you rip everything apart...Mike

[yorklyn]

I sized to fuse to protect the new battery cables. I originally had 60 amp push to reset breakers which never tripped. I was told that the 150 amp fuse would work because it was a slow blow type that could handle it. That was in the back of my mind but it blew in a split second which leads me to believe that I have a dead short somewhere. I had the original harnesses marked well but when I upgraded to the delco est distributors it changed everything , no resistor, differnt coil etc. I think I screwed up there someplace.

[yorklyn]

one down, one to go! I spent two full days tracing every wire in the engine harness and verified everything was perfect!!! tried starting the 5kw gen and blew a 100 amp fuse! replaced it with a 150 amp and it turned over just fine. rewired my buddies boat with twin 135hp merc outboards and used 100 amp fuses, they blew! replaced with 150 amp and they worked fine. went to my shop today for the second attempt starting my starboard engine and instantly blew the 150 amp fuse again! said "screw it" connected directly to the battery and it fired right up! didnt make the initial 20 minutes that I had planned on. went through 300 gallons of water in 14 minutes and 45 seconds (our impromptu "slip and slide" water removal system worked perfect!!!! got lazy and decided just to run it inside the shop!). the temp was right around 170 for at least 10 minutes with the engine at 2000rpms the entire time.
Ran out of time so the port engine will have to wait until next time.


https://youtu.be/rogo8zgUKrA

[mobile diver]

Love this thread. Even my Honda 130 outboards will blow a 150 amp fuse; I had to go to 200. No way is 150 amp fuse enough for a big block starter. 200-250 would be closer to it.