Trojan Boat Forum

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:22 am**

Well technicly the 6v53t is a 318 ci engine but huge heavy and noisy lol never fit in an f26
The only diesel I found that would work with the f-26 that would bolt on to the pv31 was a iveco s30 230bhp @ 4000 rpm inline 4 turbo diesel but $$$$$$$ expensive! It would pay for itself after a while burning 4 gallons an hour in a few decades though lol

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:59 pm**

They do not call a 6V53 a screaming green leaker for nothing. I had 2 of them in my last boat. They will run forever as long as you keep filling them up with oil. Mine used about a gallon of oil per engine in 24 hours run time. I would go into the big box boat equipment store and buy all the absorbent pads they had on the shelf. But they always started and ran like tops...

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:57 pm**

wolfnnj wrote:VAbeach1234

I used a 1974 engine block ( I would recommend just getting a Marine power bobtail two links at the end) rebuilt with crusader parts

In the pictures above on page 7 I used a pair of slightly used end rise manifolds, they were not good (cracked) so there are center rise manifolds in it now that fit no problem.

The stringers needed no modification in fact the 350 mounted to the exact spot as the 318 both front and rear trans mounts are in the same location.

This is pretty much what I did. And how much it cost me.
Dont forget you are doing a full repower you cant use any old parts from 318

http://marineenginedepot.com/20012/0/Me ... ong-Block/ $2650.00 Brand New long block
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/motor-mou ... p-439.html $122.00 Engine mounts.
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/dart-dual ... p-921.html $364.00 Intake Manifold
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/genuine-c ... p-797.html $229.00 Bell housing for paragon/ZF hurst tranny
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/edelbrock ... p-349.html $469 Carb
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/freshwate ... -p-86.html $780 FWC kit
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/marine-pa ... 32_76.html $120 pulleys
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/marine-al ... p-301.html $269.00 Alternator
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/arco-moun ... p-764.html $259.00 starter
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/volvo-pen ... p-272.html $99.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/mercruise ... -1944.html Manifolds $1,100.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/performan ... -3502.html $299.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/volvo-pen ... p-563.html Fule Pump assembly $610.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/transmiss ... p-631.html DAMPER PLATE $179.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/dual-cool ... -3324.html Oil Cooler $310
I think I left out a few items like belts, hoses, ect. that exceed another $450.00 but you get the Idea it totals to over $8500 plus you have to put it all together and pray for no teething issues like I had.

But I should have just bought ( and I would highly recommend )
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/complete- ... -p-61.html $7,200.00
or
http://marineenginedepot.com/20054/0/Me ... e-Package/ $7,100.00 ***** GREAT ENGINE PACKAGE*****[/color]

With the last two options you just need a bell housing and a damper plate and you are good to go. obviously re wire everything to the new motor and new gauges. may be needed.
You can also put a 302 5.0 V8 @ 250 hp with fuel injection as it will fit perfectly, just remember not to exceed 260 hp b/c the PV31 V-drive can not handle any more than 260 @ 4000 rpms max as per specifications.

I hope this helps
Happy boating.

Thanks Wolfnnj,
This is some great info. Hope all is well with your boat and you enjoy it now that she's up and running. This appeared to be a huge task. When I replaced my 318 with a remanufactured 318 I had to hunt down someone that was willing to build it for me. All the bigger well known boat mechs around here wouldn't touch it if they couldn't order a crate motor. This info will help if I ever have to or choose to replace my 318 that I have in her now.

Thanks again.

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:01 pm**

Ken,

Just so you know the entire re-power cost me a little over $10,000.00 for a boat that sells for $3,500.00 lol but I love this boat!

The only reason I decided not to rebuild the bulletproof 318 was that the parts were at least 1.5 times more than any other engine brand (gas not diesel) its much easier to go to any online boating store to purchase parts for a 350. I also wanted to make the boat go as fast as it could go within the specs. Trojan Bob told me that he re-powered a 78 f-26 for a customer and it flew 35+. I believe that is possible with a straight engine and Transmission but with the V drive this is it.

I am going to get comments on this next statement and questions but it is what it is. I purchased ($700.00) and rebuilt ($1,000.00) a 1990 COX super-loader 10,000 LB double axle ROLLER trailer. Yes roller. the boat fits on it perfectly and tracks down the road nicely but I am pretty sure I am over width as per DOT regs but I am unaware by how much? Do you know the exact factory width of the 1971 f-26? When I measure it from the transom its 8'0" but I know it bows out a bit. I like having the freedom of taking the boat in and out anytime without paying someone to haul it out. But I would still like to be somewhat legal carting it around.

I hope you have a happy boating season.

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:33 pm**

Per the specs I have. The beam on both the 1971 and 1972 F26 is 10'-0". See attachments below.

1971:
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab96 ... NS1971.jpg

1972:
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab96 ... rojans.jpg

I'm sure she's a beast coming down the road. Hope you don't have far to go and not a lot of highway. I believe foofer b had his on a trailer before he sold it. Here's a photo of his. But his wasn't a 71 or 72.

I think 8'-6" wide is the max here in Virginia. You need a permit wider than that. But I see people towing stuff wider than that all the time. Not sure if the are legal or just pressing their luck.

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:39 pm**

wolfnnj wrote:
The only reason I decided not to rebuild the bulletproof 318 was that the parts were at least 1.5 times more than any other engine brand (gas not diesel) its much easier to go to any online boating store to purchase parts for a 350. I also wanted to make the boat go as fast as it could go within the specs. Trojan Bob told me that he re-powered a 78 f-26 for a customer and it flew 35+. I believe that is possible with a straight engine and Transmission but with the V drive this is it.

Do you know your top speed and cruise speed and cruise RPM's with your new set up?
What about fuel burn at cruise? Just curious. My 318 always seemed a little small and under powered for these heavy boats (She seems to feel heavier as the years go on). Seems like a few more ponies would help with fuel consumption as well as speed.

Also going back to the motor you installed. Is it a Vortec? I see that crusader has a low profile intake manifold for Vortec. Just wondering how you got that thing to fit in such a tight engine compartment.

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:12 pm**

Let's see cruise speed at 3200 rpm is 23-24 knots at that I averaged 5-5.5 gph
Top speed is 26-27 knots at 4300 rpm I didn't do a gph test at wot as I didn't stay there long

I do not have vortec heads that setup is 290-300 hp and the trans will not handle that much. Here are the pics
I had to go with a pre 1985 350cu @ 260hp
On the bottom pic you can see the center rise manifold has exactly an inch clearance

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:35 pm**

I forgot to mention those pics are pre wedge.
I had to install a carb wedge to offset the transom angle
Also those numbers are with 160 gallons of fuel and a quadrajet Rochester carb I have a new edlebrock 650 performer marine carb that I plan on trying again this summer to see if there is a difference. I had some major issues with the repower and I was trying all sorts of combinations of carbs and risers only to find out that my distributor was faulty.
I bought it from AAA marine supply ( hei high performance distributor) and they wouldn't take it back

Also I got a little better fuel economy oddly switching out to iridium spark plugs.
I had too many combinations of parts & props and late in the season to try to find the best combo.

I plan on testing out a few more combos this year now that I'm running right. I have a edelbrock performer intake manifold that I can couple with the carb that might give me more oomph. I also plan on trying that carb out on the existing manifold as I have an adapter for it.

I can tell you without the wedge I was bogging down something fierce as I was probably flooding out the secondaries and or not getting enough gas in the primary's I don't like the Rochester but it may work the best. Only time & trial and error will tell.

Posted: **Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:33 pm**

You went through a lot, I'm glad to hear that all of your hard work paid off

Posted: **Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:40 pm**

Not as much as you Matt I could not even imagine all of that deck work you did. I am dreading it I have a slight soft spot where the driver stands. I like the windlass I installed and im going to use your lead on splitting the rope locker in two.

This is why I love this site so many great ideas.

Happy Boating

Posted: **Mon Jan 13, 2014 12:58 pm**

wolfnnj wrote:Not as much as you Matt I could not even imagine all of that deck work you did. I am dreading it I have a slight soft spot where the driver stands.

I also have a soft spot where the driver stands. This weekend I'm going to use penetrating epoxy (Git Rot) to try and stiffen things up a bit. I'll let you know how it works. I really don't want to tear the deck up if I don't have to.

Posted: **Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:18 pm**

The Dog House wrote:
wolfnnj wrote:Not as much as you Matt I could not even imagine all of that deck work you did. I am dreading it I have a slight soft spot where the driver stands.
I also have a soft spot where the driver stands. This weekend I'm going to use penetrating epoxy (Git Rot) to try and stiffen things up a bit. I'll let you know how it works. I really don't want to tear the deck up if I don't have to.

I also have a small soft spot on the bow where I removed the original anchor holder and through hull cover.

I would love to see if this works.

Oh and TAKE PICS. LOL

Thanks Matt
Happy boating

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2014 10:03 pm**

wolfnnj wrote:Not as much as you Matt I could not even imagine all of that deck work you did. I am dreading it I have a slight soft spot where the driver stands. I like the windlass I installed and im going to use your lead on splitting the rope locker in two.

This is why I love this site so many great ideas.

Happy Boating

Thanks, it's been a fun project and a great learning experience. I will have to update my thread, it's getting there. Even though I didn't get in the water this year, I did get my share of boat time...
I can't take the credit for splitting the rope locker in two, that was Paul's idea, which I will be doing. He helped me out figuring out the whole windlass setup. I went with a Lewmar Pro-fish to be mounted after I finish the non-skid in the spring.

The Dog House wrote:
wolfnnj wrote:
I also have a soft spot where the driver stands. This weekend I'm going to use penetrating epoxy (Git Rot) to try and stiffen things up a bit. I'll let you know how it works. I really don't want to tear the deck up if I don't have to.

I had done this when I first got the boat on a small spot over the cabin top, and it remained solid. I used west system epoxy. After I removed that section when I did the re-coring project this year was still in tact. I saved a small section, and will post a photo. You might want to let the balsa dry out before you inject the epoxy. If the boat's covered, drill the holes you were going to do, let it sit a week or two getting some air. The balsa will dry out pretty quick and you will have a better repair. Also, I learned this from experience, if it seems like you're putting in alot of epoxy, stop and check to see if it's coming out somewhere inside the boat. My resin traveled a good three feet and exited into my cabin, thankfully I checked before too much came in. Luckily i had all of the cushions out of the boat.

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2014 10:11 pm**

I have a good windlass I works well, good. It a definetly better than pulling up a anchor 200 feet below. You'll like yours as well I'm positive of it.
Looking forward to the pics

Posted: **Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:55 pm**

wolf nnj did you buy that trailer from me up here in a dumpy storage garage in the winter?

Trojan Boat Forum

1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

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Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?

Re: 1971 F-26 Repower Diesel or Gas?