Possible Trojan 36 Tri Cabin Noob Here Looking for Input

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:40 pm

Prowlerfish, I agree some clutch drag on a stright shaft may not be serious. However, this model, I believe, has V-drives. If clutch drag is turning the propshaft through the V-drive I would suspect the plates could be warped. IMHO. Jimbo.

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:07 pm

okay, went to look at the boat today, and as i expected, it didn't look nearly as 'nice' in person as it does in the photos. however, i know it'll just take a good cleaning, and it should be okay...other than the wooden rails and plantform, which need a complete redo, but other than that, it was okay.

i checked where you guys said to, and as you said, i found some rot in the wood under the aft deck panels, but the guy said, and my friend agreed, that it was a simple fix, so no worries.

the boat seemed to run fine, and we're going back tomorrow with an engine mechanic to make sure we didn't miss anything.

the one question i have now is, and this may seem stooooopid, but is it normal to see daylight through fiberglass? what i mean is, there are a couple of places where i could see around the trim (around the fridge, in the forward bert behind a panel) and i saw the outter hull, apparently, and i could see the light coming through.

i ask, because on my boat, i've never seen anything like that. i thought the glass would be a lot thicker than that. am i just being paranoid?

also, the front/main window cover on the boat is very worn. i'd like to keep that feature, but i think this one is worn. so, is this something you can touch up in some way, or would i have to replace it? if so, are they hard to find/expensive?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:42 pm

Seeing some light is normal more so on a white hull . it you make a offer make sure its pennding a survey . you will need one anyway for insurance ( if full coverage ) and if you getting a loan on it . make sure the surveyer is S.A.M.S. or N.A.M.S. MEMBER

The front window cover is custom made 300-400 would be a guess .

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:32 am

10-4skie.

going to risk it, and not do a survey.

with the chris craft i first mentioned, i had a survey lined up. with this one however, i am not. long story on why i am may go thru with it w/o one, but i had a friend of the family who used to own a commercial fishing boat..and who knows an azzload more about boats than i could even dream of...take a look at the systems and such with me yesterday. so, i'm pretty much using him as a survey, and hoping he's right.

i've already checked on the insurance, and i'll be using my current provider. and according to them, a survey isn't required. i thought it would be, which is another reason i initially had one lined up on the chris craft, but it's not required. go figure.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:22 am

tuck, whoever looks her over, just make sure he has a moisture meeter to check for soft forward and cabin top cores. if the core is wet, it will be in those locations. have him check the side decks too. as far as dry rot on the back deck between the teak and marine ply wood.... when dad had the back deck rebuild done on our tri cabin, it was around 7K, and that was 5 years ago.
aaron

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:17 am

I am suprize about the survey unless the owner just had one done . some companys want one done every five years . what company ?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:01 am

There was some talk about the tri-cabins being made in Canada . I found
some with "SHEPHERD BOATS LTD " as the builder. Trojan bought shepherd ( in Canada) others list trojan as the builder ( in the us ? )

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:10 am

hey paul, the f-36 tri cabins were built by the shepherd boat works plant, a division of trojan yachts until the design change took place in 1979 that eliminated the aft cockpit and made it into a flush deck yacht. i believe they were then made in elkton, md until the design was shelved in the mid 1980's.
aaron

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 4:34 pm

Tuck, Regardless of insurance requirements, you should reconsider doing a full survey for your own protection. One of the most important parts of the boats condition is structural. I did not go into detail before because I thought you would have a qualifed Surveyer. As mentioned here, a full moisture reading of the hull, deck and stringers in addition to "soundings" of the stringers is the deciding factor to proceed or not. Also, a close examination for stress cracks around window frames and deck areas is very important in the Surveyers assessment. Then there are all the other systems that could cost a lot to fix, eletrical, fuel systems, steering assemblys, the list goes on and on. By the way, you did not mention the asking price. Are you aware of the market value of this boat? I have extensive knowledge having owned and restored several boats myself and I would NEVER buy without a good survey. For what it is worth. Jimbo.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:25 pm

I have only had one boat survey done and if the insurance or bank did not ask for it I would have never had it done .But I know what to look for . I used a top rated surveyer and he did not find anything I did not . and missed somethings I found . as far as a "moisture reading" thats a joke IMO . get 10 people to check a boat for moisture and you will get 10 diffrent anwsers . Moisture meters may be fine but most surveryers do not have a clue how to use them but the do anyway .

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/moisture_meters.htm

With that said unless you really really know boats I still reccmend a survey

Coralkong · Post by **Coralkong** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 6:04 am

Just another heads-up.
As with most boats that are 30+ years old, pay special attention to the electrical connectors.
I have a '74 TriCabin, and it seems to be a never-ending process of finding wires, trimming the ends and putting new ring or spade connectors on them.

Other than that, and the rot in the back deck (I totally redid mine), if the engines run, and the bilge pumps are in good shape, the only other thing I can recommend is checking out the stantions where the rail is screwed in, (you're going to want to reseat them in 5200 no doubt) and recaulk the windows.

I love my TriCabin, and while it isn't as "spiffy" as the new boats on the market, it has character and is built like a tank!

Someone once told me the difference between a Trojan and most other boats is that if something catastrophic happens to another boat, it is finished. A Trojan can be fixed because the platform it was built upon is so sturdy and stable, and over-built from the get go.

Nice looking boat, btw.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 6:52 am

Tuck Did you get the the boat ??

Tuck · Post by **Tuck** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:16 am

prowlersfish wrote:Tuck Did you get the the boat ??

i went to alabama on saturday for the initial 'inspection', and again on sunday with a mechanic who works for the wife's friend who went with me on saturday. the engines appeared to check out okay, so with that...

banks were closed yesterday, so i have some calls to make today. once i figure out who to call first and when (bank, marina to secure a slip, etc etc etc), i'll probably spend a few minutes going back and forth with myself to make sure this is what i want to do.

as of now, i'm 90% sure this is the one i'm going to take.

provided this is the one (again, 90%), my plan is to drive back to alabama this weekend, if i can find a way to get there, get the boat, and sail it back to chattanooga.

so, short anwer made long...not yet, but probably/hopefully by the weekend.

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Possible Trojan 36 Tri Cabin Noob Here Looking for Input

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