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If you were to add an additional, external switch you could cover six seperate batteries from this panel.
It's very useful and I would not be without it.
It can help you avert disaster, it's done it for me!
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
I have a 2 bank version of the analog gauge that RWS spoke of. When I'm on the hook for a couple days, a simple flick of the switch shows me the battery status and I know if it's time to start the generator for a re-charge.
I bought it at Westmarine abour 4 years ago for $45.
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
In stead of buying a volt meter from Blue Sea or any other manufacture I put together a volt meter from parts I bought from Radio Shack at a fraction of the cost. All you need is to buy a volt meter, a non-shorting rotary switch, in line fuse holders, and some wire. Total cost around $40.00. I don’t have a current Radio Shack catalog so my prices will be estimates but these are the parts:
1. Panel Volt meter 0-15VDC 22-410 $20.00 (Digital volt meter could be used but is more expensive)
2. 6 position Rotary non-shorting switch 275-1386 $5.00 (This is a 2 pole switch, but you will only use 1 pole of the switch)
3. In line fuse holder 270-1281 $2.00 (You will need one for each battery) (4 batteries $8.00)
4. Glass fuses 0.25A 270-1002 $2.00
5. Hook-up wire #18 - #12 $($5.00) (You will need enough wire to run a wire from each battery to the switch. Wire size should be determined by the length of the run.)
Run a wire with a fuse holder from the positive terminal of each battery to terminals on the switch. A 6 position switch will handle up to 5 batteries. The first position of the switch will be the off position. Run the output terminal of the switch to the volt meter. Since all batteries have a common ground you can pick up the ground or – side of the battery from most anywhere. This is connected to the – side of the volt meter. Once installed, you can check the voltage in each battery by rotating the switch. When finished checking, you can turn the volt meter off.
The rotary switch I recommended is only rated at 0.3A. You need to use a non-shorting rotary switch to protect the switch when switching between batteries. If the batteries being checked aren’t at the same voltage you can get a serge of current and fry the switch. The non-shorting switch keeps this from happening.
gjrylands wrote:In stead of buying a volt meter from Blue Sea or any other manufacture I put together a volt meter from parts I bought from Radio Shack at a fraction of the cost. All you need is to buy a volt meter, a non-shorting rotary switch, in line fuse holders, and some wire. Total cost around $40.00. I don’t have a current Radio Shack catalog so my prices will be estimates but these are the parts:
1. Panel Volt meter 0-15VDC 22-410 $20.00 (Digital volt meter could be used but is more expensive)
2. 6 position Rotary non-shorting switch 275-1386 $5.00 (This is a 2 pole switch, but you will only use 1 pole of the switch)
3. In line fuse holder 270-1281 $2.00 (You will need one for each battery) (4 batteries $8.00)
4. Glass fuses 0.25A 270-1002 $2.00
5. Hook-up wire #18 - #12 $($5.00) (You will need enough wire to run a wire from each battery to the switch. Wire size should be determined by the length of the run.)
Run a wire with a fuse holder from the positive terminal of each battery to terminals on the switch. A 6 position switch will handle up to 5 batteries. The first position of the switch will be the off position. Run the output terminal of the switch to the volt meter. Since all batteries have a common ground you can pick up the ground or – side of the battery from most anywhere. This is connected to the – side of the volt meter. Once installed, you can check the voltage in each battery by rotating the switch. When finished checking, you can turn the volt meter off.
The rotary switch I recommended is only rated at 0.3A. You need to use a non-shorting rotary switch to protect the switch when switching between batteries. If the batteries being checked aren’t at the same voltage you can get a serge of current and fry the switch. The non-shorting switch
keeps this from happening.
Very nice... How did you mount it all? Got a pic of it?
79' Carver 28' Mariner
I want another Trojan, preferably a Tri Cabin
I put in an auxiliary DC power panel and incorporator the volt meter in the panel. I’m going to the boat today and will take a picture of the panel and post it.
You can mount the volt meter anywhere it will fit. The meter is 2 ¼†high and about 3†wide. It mounts in a 1 7/8†hole. The switch mounts in a 7/16†hole. You will need about 1 1/2 “ of clear space behind the hole to accommodate the switch.
gjrylands wrote:In stead of buying a volt meter from Blue Sea or any other manufacture I put together a volt meter from parts I bought from Radio Shack at a fraction of the cost. All you need is to buy a volt meter, a non-shorting rotary switch, in line fuse holders, and some wire. Total cost around $40.00. I don’t have a current Radio Shack catalog so my prices will be estimates but these are the parts:
1. Panel Volt meter 0-15VDC 22-410 $20.00 (Digital volt meter could be used but is more expensive)
2. 6 position Rotary non-shorting switch 275-1386 $5.00 (This is a 2 pole switch, but you will only use 1 pole of the switch)
3. In line fuse holder 270-1281 $2.00 (You will need one for each battery) (4 batteries $8.00)
4. Glass fuses 0.25A 270-1002 $2.00
5. Hook-up wire #18 - #12 $($5.00) (You will need enough wire to run a wire from each battery to the switch. Wire size should be determined by the length of the run.)
Run a wire with a fuse holder from the positive terminal of each battery to terminals on the switch. A 6 position switch will handle up to 5 batteries. The first position of the switch will be the off position. Run the output terminal of the switch to the volt meter. Since all batteries have a common ground you can pick up the ground or – side of the battery from most anywhere. This is connected to the – side of the volt meter. Once installed, you can check the voltage in each battery by rotating the switch. When finished checking, you can turn the volt meter off.
The rotary switch I recommended is only rated at 0.3A. You need to use a non-shorting rotary switch to protect the switch when switching between batteries. If the batteries being checked aren’t at the same voltage you can get a serge of current and fry the switch. The non-shorting switch
keeps this from happening.
Very nice... How did you mount it all? Got a pic of it?
This is a picture of the auxiliary DC power panel with the voltmeter.
If the volt meter looks too modern you can use any DC volt meter with the proper range. The key to the instalation is the rotary switch. If you have room in the dash you can install a 2" round volt meter. You should be able to find one that would match the gauges you have. You should be able to find a place to install the switch so it would be close to the gauge.
I have an F-25 and all my inside sytems, fridge, faucet and shower pump, fans, tv, dvd, cd, stereo, lighting are all twelve volt, with a dedicated battery bank thoroughly fed by solar panels on the hard top - so monitoring voltage is important on board. I use a power panel with a voltage gauge like gjrylands. I don't recall off-hand the brand, but it is a five fuse and cost about $125. It really is perfect.
