Trojan Boat Forum

[quote="gjrylands"]The bolts on my F36 have nuts. I am replacing the core from below. At the moment I have the head and hull liner down in the front state room. I've cut the lower layer of glass and removed the old core. Here is a picture of the bolts holding the rail fittings. You can see that they are through bolted and have nuts. You can't tighten them without opening things up.

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That F-36 is so good looking (I'm biased), I think you should put this back in for the headliner:
http://www.luminex.it/

It's fabric with luminous threads through it so the whole ceiling would light up. I hear they're putting it in next years Mercedes S-class. Hey, what's a couple more thousand bucks for a boat like ours?!

gardnersf wrote:RWS, Do you need to pull the head liner to get to the bow rail nuts? I wanted to re bed my rail this year but don't know if I have to mess with the headliner.

If you have a headliner, you don’t need to remove it. You will have to loosen it at the edges. I guess that is considered messing with it, but it’s not that bad.

JuiceClark wrote:

gjrylands wrote:The bolts on my F36 have nuts. I am replacing the core from below. At the moment I have the head and hull liner down in the front state room. I've cut the lower layer of glass and removed the old core. Here is a picture of the bolts holding the rail fittings. You can see that they are through bolted and have nuts. You can't tighten them without opening things up.

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That F-36 is so good looking (I'm biased), I think you should put this back in for the headliner:
http://www.luminex.it/

It's fabric with luminous threads through it so the whole ceiling would light up. I hear they're putting it in next years Mercedes S-class. Hey, what's a couple more thousand bucks for a boat like ours?!

That might look good, but I was thinking of black velvet with an airbrushed painting of Elvis!

Any Michael Angelo's out there?

I'll have to take a good look at how things are attached in the forward berth, I think the trim is stapled and hoping the wall liner is just stapled also.

As much as I hate having to do this, I know its gotta happen and sooner not later, I'll be sure to bed the bolts to prevent further leaking.

use STAINLESS staples.

RWS

I have had the same problem on my 78' F-26 for a few years and could never get them tightened.  I pulled back the headliner in the v-berth this wekend.  Removed a piece of teak trim to get to the headliner staples.  Instead of a bolt with typical nut and washer there was a threaded, star shaped fastener with spikes that draw up into the wood reinforcing block.  They were so badly corroded they stripped out.  I'm going  to replace with a nut and washer.  Also thinking about replacing the stanchion bases with stainless.  Has anyone had any luck doing this?  John at Marine Tech told me Trojan pressed the bases on the rail and any replacement should be welded to make the rail sturdy enough.  Not sure I want to go to that extent.

bthomas70 wrote:John at Marine Tech told me Trojan pressed the bases on the rail and any replacement should be welded to make the rail sturdy enough.  Not sure I want to go to that extent.

Are you going to be on deck in heavy seas often? If so then Johns comment has some merit... of course you can just make the crew go there!
My bowrail was modified to go out around pulpit and they have grub screws to hold the base of stancion in. Tightening at start of every season seems to keep them snug.

I replaced the rail bases on my '69 31' Trojan woody. The bases were not pressed on to the stanchions. The old bases had set screws, that when loosened the stanchions could be removed. The new ss bases worked great. The rail was stronger and the bases were new & shinny.

I am not familiar with the rail on the F26. If your bases have set screws, try loosening them on one of the bases and see if you get any movement of the stanchion in the base. That will tell you if they are pressed on.

If you want to want to make sure the stanchion will stay in the base, replace one or both set screws with a stainless steel pop rivet. It will be the last time you’ll have to worry about them loosening. Just be aware that stainless is tough to drill. Drill it at very low RPM’s and you’ll get through without burning up the drill bit.

On my 1976 F32 the bow rail stanchions seem to be riveted together. I wonder if this is factory or something that was done in the screw holes because someone got tired of them loosening.

Anyone heard of this?

Mac32 wrote:On my 1976 F32 the bow rail stanchions seem to be riveted together. I wonder if this is factory or something that was done in the screw holes because someone got tired of them loosening.

Anyone heard of this?

They are riveted on my 79 F36. I think Trojan did it.

After purchasing all new stainless steel stanchion bases and installing them I then moved over to the task of simply drilling out the factory rivet holding the old plated bronze stanchion to the 7/8 stainless stanchion tube..

Well I moved to the task, but I am still trying to get started, they are either soldered in or press fit together before the rivet job.

I heat and beat the darn thing until they finally separated. (if I had access to an arbor press and brass block with a 7/8" hole in it to pass the tube but not the base then life would be so much easier........But I don't.

So does anyone have a trick up their sleeve to get these apart? I have 9 more to go and really hate banging on pretty things.