Hollow Keel

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:39 am

where would the emergency pump be in a 78 F26 FB and what would it look like?

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:45 am

Hi Ross,

Thanks for digging up all of the info on foam filler. It looks like it would really be a good lightweight solution to this problem if it does'nt absorb water. I think the first thing I'll do is drill a prospecting hole in the cap over the keel to see if in fact trere is any water in there. If not, then I may just seal it back up and call it a day. It was also interesting to read about the legalities that could possibly come into play with the use of foam. Haden't thought about it that way before. Dammed if you do, dammed if you don't.

Matt,

I love West System and I've been using it for years for repairs, improvements and just making things from scratch. Although filling the keel with it would solve the problem and make it as tough as a brick ship house, it might be a little cost prohibitive for this application. Great idea though.

Randy / Roy,

Does water have open access to your keel? Although it's quite light, mine has a fiberglass cap sealing it completely from under the front of the engine to just forward of the forward bulkhead. There are no holes, threaded pipe fittings or any other access points. This is the way it was from the factory plus I added another layer of fiberglass roving with West System resin. I have a LasDrop shaft seal and no water leaks from rain so my bilge is normally as dry as a desert. The only time water gets in there is when I wash the cockpit floor or when I haul in the anchor and the rope drips into the bilge from the anchor locker. Also the occasional AC condensate. Water sloshing around isn't a concern as much as water possibly trapped in the keel freezing is. I think Randy may be on the right track with the ability to pump it out. If I glass in a 1"NPT brass fitting at the deepest point of the keel, I could at least slip a hose in there before the winter freeze sets in and pump it dry (if it's not already) which would give me peace of mind over the winter.

Again thanks for all of the replies

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:52 am

My keel area has pass thrus under the bulkhead at the vberth and one at the bulkhead between the cabin and the engine room. Also there are two round holes , about 2" in diameter and an oval hole toward the stern allowing access to the bilge pump

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 11:11 am

Hi Roy,

So water can flow freely through your keel? At least that keeps the water in your keel from getting stinky since you can flush it through.

My emergency pump is hand operated and installed on the forward wall in the closet. No matter where it's installed, this item is on the coast guard's check list of things to look for should they want to inspect your vessel.

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:21 pm

A lot of boats have hollow keels without caps. Obviously a Trojan engineer (maybe the same one that put balsa wood in the foredeck and flybridge floor) had nothing to do and decided to 'seal the keel' and see what happens. Or, someone at Trojan was trying to pacify a gov't safety inspector about migration of gasoline fumes, and sealed the keel. For whatever reason it was sealed initially, there is no valid reason for leaving it sealed. It creates all sorts of problems. Cut some holes in the cap with a hole saw and put a bilge pump suction hose in the deepest point to pump it out.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:50 pm

"put a bilge pump suction hose in the deepest point to pump it out".

It needs to be a diaphragm type lifting pump (creatse suction) like a Jabsco or Flojet ... not the rotary pumps, like your cheaper Rules ot Attwoods.

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:06 am

Right...a centrifugal type bilge pump will not create a suction unless the pump body is full of water. The way my F-36 sits in the water, most of the water in the hollow keel runs to the forward pump and goes overboard. I can see some water in the keel through the hole I cut between the engines but it is about three inches below the keel cap. I do not have a pump that sucks the keel completely dry.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:49 pm

Danny Bailey wrote:For whatever reason it was sealed initially, there is no valid reason for leaving it sealed. It creates all sorts of problems.

Hmm

If it is sealed how does it create all sorts of problems?
I am confident to leave mine sealed... what am I missing here?

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:54 pm

Mine had built up tremendous pressure inside the keel. Don't know why it did but it did. I found it when I took the bolts out of the old Groco thru hull for the A/C sea water intake to replace it. The keel cap had separated from the bottom at the bolt holes and when the first one wrung off there was a psssssss for about 5 minutes. It stunk so bad I had to get out of the boat...smelled like rotten eggs. There is also the possibility in cold climates of water collecting in the keel, freezing and cracking the keel. I don't worry about that because the creeks rarely freeze here. What advantage or benefit do you gain by having a sealed keel? Why is Trojan the only boat that has a sealed keel?