Page 2 of 3

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:26 am
by MTP
davescarrs wrote:Thanks guys. I will implement some of the tips you guys have mentioned and see what happens. I'll report back. Thank you all!!!!

we are hoping you are not going to try the flare idea

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:51 am
by 13footbeam
If I am dealing with a tapered shaft, I use an old trick taught me by an old-timer that owned a machine shop for about 65 years. He told me to use two large hammers and strike them firmly and simultaneously on opposite sides of each other on whatever it is you are trying to break loose from the tapered shaft, in this case the prop. This action is almost like squeezing a zit; it pops the prop right loose. If this does not work by its self, assist with a 3-arm puller with a bit of pressure. Works every time for me and it is quick.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:17 am
by foofer b
I had that problem with mine- I had tightened as much as I dared, worrying about breaking something, and then was told to bam it with a hammer. It popped right off.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:03 am
by prowlersfish

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:18 pm
by mr elevman
i would not hit the prop with hammers in the dir of the shaft the forse or shock will be directly transrefed to the trans and shaft coupler if you use a puller or some sort load the puller and tap not hit the side of the propand it will pop rite offlet the puller do the work not the hammer

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:22 pm
by Rodman
prowlersfish wrote:
Rodman wrote:was not using a flare gun. Just hand held flare to heat with. Was not dangerous at all if you are out in the open.

Image
Not safe at all . a torch in the right hands is safer for sure . you can turn a torch off . it may have worked but that just crazy IMO. there is no sub.for the ringt tools.

I understand it was dangerous, But It worked and I did not have right tool. Anyway anyone have any input on removing the V drive? Will it leak oil?

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:32 pm
by mr elevman
work safe and work smart and allways use the write tool for the job in the elevator inds its safty safty safty and more safty some thing we should all remember safty starts with you ive seen people get hurt very bad from taking short cuts and just being plain stupid sorry for the thangent on safty

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:40 pm
by foofer b
The boat yard loaned me this style, and it worked well. http://www.consumersmarine.com/modperl/ ... &aID=702H3

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 4:44 pm
by ready123
mr elevman wrote:i would not hit the prop with hammers in the dir of the shaft the forse or shock will be directly transrefed to the trans and shaft coupler if you use a puller or some sort load the puller and tap not hit the side of the propand it will pop rite offlet the puller do the work not the hammer
I read 13footbeam to mean exactly that, hitting the prop base from each side similar to the one side hit you suggest.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:57 pm
by alexander38
I'd think it would come down to a tap with to hammers with the puller putting stress on the prop. Vs get me my BFH it's coming off now

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:48 pm
by Danny Bailey
prowlersfish wrote:Danny , that why asked the type of puller . it could haver broken lose and then the puller started binding . I loaned mine out and that happen . ( damaged the puller after the puller was removed you could tap the props off.
I know. It is hard to explain how to do something like this to someone who may have little or no mechanical experience. I made my puller from 3/4 plate steel with 3 pulling rods. I certainly did not mean flares when I said warm the prop. Some prop installation guides say to lay the prop out in the sun and let it warm before you put it on. A Morse Taper, which is what's on the shaft and inside the prop, is a stretch fit, and warming the prop will expand the inner taper. But...a properly designed, applied and operated puller is still neccesary.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:55 pm
by Danny Bailey
and if it still wont come off...duck tape two sticks of dynamite on the front edge of the prop and take all the nuts off so your shaft and transmission dont come out also. You'll never find your prop, but by now its probably beyond use anyway. :D

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:42 pm
by prowlersfish
Danny Bailey wrote:and if it still wont come off...duck tape two sticks of dynamite on the front edge of the prop and take all the nuts off so your shaft and transmission dont come out also. You'll never find your prop, but by now its probably beyond use anyway. :D
And light it with Flares ?

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:35 pm
by mr elevman
the rudders will slow it from flying too far in to the horizion roflmao

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:42 pm
by davescarrs
I warmed up the shaft and prop with a propane torch and it popped off. The other prop came off even easier didn't pop, just kinda slid off. Thanks!!!