Trojan Boat Forum

Paul wrote:Hi Paul,

The teak & holly is 1/4" ply. It's basically teak & holly venir laminated to 1/4" mahogany and is available in 4'x 8' sheets. I used this and laminated it to 3/4" marine ply for the main floor.

Hey Paul...one more question:

Where did you purchase the 1/4" teak & holly ply?

My wife is ga ga over your cabin sole & step pictures.

Thanks,

Paul - Woodstock, Ont.

Noah's in Etobicoke has 1/4', 1/2" and 3/4" ply with .6mm laminated teak & holly...
http://www.noahsmarine.com/assets/images/maptonoahs.jpg

There is also a place in Burlingon, called Exotic Woods.. Less marine focused than Noah's, but they have tons of cool stuff !

http://www.exotic-woods.com/

I purchased the teak & holly ply from a place in Detroit called Public Lumber. They show their available material on their web site. All of the teak trim pieces were purchased thru Sea & Ski Marine Stores here in Windsor. The places listed by Captainmaniac & TrojanF32 are alot closer to your location so I'd check them out first.

Thanks again Paul

I'll do that.

Thanks for the other info too guys!

SW Paul

Paul, that is one fine F26 you redid. I'm especially interested in how you fabricated the fiberglas boot for the exhaust. Any details you can send me? email is rfpssp@aol.com.

Many thanks!

The exhaust boot - do you have a hole in it for a 'tell tale' or any other way of confirming you are pumping water ? Most commercial versions of the boot that I have seen (usually rubber, but some cast or stainless versions too) have some hole(s) above the waterline to allow you to confirm you are pumping, plus to relieve exhaust back pressure when you are idling.

Hi Randy,

The exhaust boot was made in three sub components that were then bonded together. First, I made a model of the boot shape itself from cardboard and tape. The upper part of the boot slips over the existing exhaust deflector, with extra clearance all around, then extends twards the bottom of the hull in a "dog leg" shape to get around the trim tab. As the boot curves around the trim tab the shape becomes eliptical so that it cuts thru the water like the lower unit on an O/I would. I made the model extend further below the hull than required to allow for trimming later. I then covered the whole thing with plastic shrink wrap (the same stuff used to cover the boat for winer storage) then fiberglassed over it with heavy roving and West System epoxy resin. After this had cured, I soaked the whole thing in a bucket of water to soften up the cardboard then pulled it all out. Since the resin does'nt stick to plastic the shrink wrap pulled out easily as well.

Secondly, I used a Tupperware lid as a mold to form the flange that would join the boot to the existing exhaust deflector flange. Using a lid that is the same diameter as the existing flange, I filled it with layers of roving and resin. Once cured it poped right out of the plastic. Then using a jig saw & drill I cut the hole out of the center and drilled the bolting holes.

Thirdly, I layed out some roving and resin flat on some plastic shrink wrap. I then once cured cut out the shape of the cavitation plate and front deflector from this.

Lastly, I joined all of these components together with a mix of resin, thickener and chopped glass. Once cured I installed it on the boat then trimmed the length about 4 inches below the hull on the leading edge with a taper up to the trailing edge of about 30°. Under way this taper creates a void or a vacuum in the water to help draw out the exhaust. I also added one extra bolt thru the transom about 1 1/2 " from the bottom into th main body of the boot to help hold it against the force of the water rushing by it.

There is no "tell tail" hole for two reasons. Where it's located you could'nt see any water flow and it back pressure is not a problem. This thing dumps the exhaust at about the same level below the waterline as an I/O dumps it thru it's gimbal housing. I did however add one extra safety feature, just below the cavitation plate I used a die grinder and cut a groove into half the thickness of the glass all the way around then filled it with resin only. This created a shear point just in case it hits somthing in the water, this way only a small piece of it will require repair instead of damaging the whole thing. And yes this does work since i've had to replace it once already.

I'll try to get out to the marina this weekend and take some pictures of it and send them to your e-mail address.

Hope this helps,

Paul,

That exhaust boot is a very nice touch. Great idea.

• 
  Close-up of Paul's "Cruise Control" Fiberglass Exhaust Boot.

Thanks,

Thanks for the info, Paul. Looks like a great project for me this coming fall after I pull the mighty BH. Any addtional pictures of it would be great!

way nice project

Paul, nice job! 2 questions:

1) Did you fit a GM 350 CID in? Did you replace a 318 w/350? how did the size/fit compare? I want to repower my '82 261 from 318 to 5.7 MEFI. Height looks to be very tight. Existing 318 is also tight, about 1" from bilge and 1/2" to hatch.

2) In 1st engine photo looking forward, what is black box on engine bulkhead portside of center? I have same box but not able to identify what it is.

Marko,

1) The engine is a 300 Hp 350 cid Chevy / MerCruirer and replaced a 228 Hp 305 cid MerCruiser. The only modification required was machining a pocket into the underside of the engine hatch with a router to allow space for the taller flame arrestor to fit. The pocket is about 1/2" deep and the exposed balsa was treated to a layer of fiberglass.

I replaced everything from the motor mounts to the the prop nuts, The shaft size remained the same however the material was upgraded to Aquamet 19 and I installed a taper lock coupler at the transmission. I did this to help it better handle the added torque of the new engine.

2) That black box was the junction box for the wiring to the house batteries and housed the breakers for the refrigerator and trim tabs. I've removed it since that picture was taken.

foofer b wrote:It is official. I am buying a new house and moving to JEALOUSVILLE!!!

Thought you sold the Trojan to get this rig?





Of course, you DO want to be safe, so a PFD would be a good idea while draining the hull (and especially afterwards) ...