Trojan Boat Forum

IF you have a CLOSED WATER COOLING SYSTEM:

• 1) When you change your Seawater impeller(s), THERE WILL BE MISSING PIECES FROM THE RUBBER BLADES.
  
  2) Disassemble your water lines and FORCE WATER BACKWARDS THROUGH THE SEAWATER SYSTEM to push out these pieces. A tight mesh net over the end will catch all debris you push through.
  
  3) Collect and account for all of the missing pieces to be safe.
  
  4) Failing to do so WILL result in blocked lines.

Gentlemen - please take this extra step - it can/will save you much anguish. The impellers take long enough to change - and adding 15 minutes to back flush is minor - grab a cold beer and do it!

Following up on this. Per prowlerfish's advice, I ordered 2 gallons of rydlyme and flused the thru-hulls and the oil / trans coolers for an hour apiece. Just used a bucket, some hoses and a pump. Lots of foam and gook came out, but no big chunks - so I was skeptical.

We splahed it the water flow looked good. Then we took it out and I was shocked - the boat is running absolutely perfectly. There must have been blockage in the coolers and the rydlyme ate it away, nothing else chaged. I used to get lots of steam from the exhaust even at 1800 RPM and now just little wisps of steam at 3200RPM. The engine temps stay below 175 even at WOT / 4000 RPM whereas before they used to head up to 180 and keep climbing at anything over 2400 RPM. We were basically stuck at 1800 RPM for the first 2 months of ownership.

Couldn't be happier, best $90 I ever spent. Thanks Prowlerfish, thanks Rydlyme, thanks forum!

Chris

Glad it worked out , its good stuff

So you don't want me to measure my unit?

I had a problem and the pump was fine but when I took off the gooseneck (where the thermostat is located) I found where at one time the impeller had came aprt and pieces were lodged in exits. Take it off and look inside you may find the blockage there only the engine overheats when this is the case.

no Foofer you can keep that to yourself. Please!