Trojan Boat Forum

This may in fact be a prop issue but while you're waiting on the marina, and before incurring a haulout fee, I had the same issue some time ago (twice) that you're describing. I would take D. Bailey's advise and go over the mechanical first. Both times, my symptoms were exactly as you describe:

engine runs great, rev to 6K in neutral, no backfiring, missing, smoke, very smooth running, just can't get over 2200 rpm cruising

I however had the advantage of knowing that it was definately not a prop issue.

If you have the in-line canister fuel filter before the carb, this is a possibility. A couple of weeks after changing out mine with a new one, it failed. There was what seemed to be a blob of caulk inside. Must have been a manufacturing thing since there is a primary Racor filter upstream.

The second time was an ignition issue the following season. About a month after doing a tune-up, I replaced what seemed to be a perfectly good (new) cap and rotor and what was a new plug wire, and away she went.

Bear in mind that in both cases, the engine seemed to sound and run perfect, and in neutral under no load, would rev up as you described. Under load however, everything changes.

A few simple tests might save you some money.

Thanks All,

Yes the hull is clean as a whistle.
OK Big D, good advice! will change out the fuel filter also check all electrical, great advice from all, Thanks again !

Alas the saga continues
Abster

MTP wrote:There is another user in you area that has a similar issue with his F26 and he (to my knowledge) has yet to address his poor bottom condition but continues to ask questions on how to get up on plane and what prop should he use etc..........is the bottom of your boat smooth? If not it should be.

I have not found out my problem yet. I have the same issues`s. Exact same thing as he describes.

Just flipped through the chain of posts again, and noticed something Dannty Bailey originally posted that made a light bulb go off. Timing advance mechanism. A few years back my port engine would not rev over 3800 RPM. To keep engines synched I would have to advance the port throttle way more than the starboard throttle (to get the same RPMs). Turned out the distributor was not advancing timing at higher RPMs. I was only getting a couple of degrees of advance out of it between idle and high speed. Dropped in rebuilt (it advances something like 15degrees between idle and 3000RPM) and I now get full RPMs again.

Thanks Captian M,

Creating a check list from advice given, going to address them all, have the marina mechanic available on Monday for an hour, will check these items well, Thanks Again All !

Abster

Hope you can find the cause. Some of these old distributors use a centrifugal advance mechanism (little weights on the tips of arms cause them to spread out as speed of spinning increases, springs pull them back in when speed reduces). Marine environment means moisure, which leads to rust, which can lead to the arms sticking.

captainmaniac wrote:Hope you can find the cause. Some of these old distributors use a centrifugal advance mechanism (little weights on the tips of arms cause them to spread out as speed of spinning increases, springs pull them back in when speed reduces). Marine environment means moisure, which leads to rust, which can lead to the arms sticking.

For over thirty years, the Ignitor has proven itself in applications ranging from race cars to tractors. The Ignitor replaces breaker point and troublesome factory electronic ignitions with a dependable, self contained and maintenance free electronic ignition system. The Ignitor has been called the "stealth" ignition because of its quick installation and nearly undetectable presence under your distributor cap.

My engine had the Ignitor installed

I did replace it though.




http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

Rodman wrote:

MTP wrote:There is another user in you area that has a similar issue with his F26 and he (to my knowledge) has yet to address his poor bottom condition but continues to ask questions on how to get up on plane and what prop should he use etc..........is the bottom of your boat smooth? If not it should be.

I have not found out my problem yet. I have the same issues`s. Exact same thing as he describes.

I guess it would be silly to ask if you solved the bottom issue?

Rodman wrote:For over thirty years, the Ignitor has proven itself in applications ranging from race cars to tractors. The Ignitor replaces breaker point and troublesome factory electronic ignitions with a dependable, self contained and maintenance free electronic ignition system. The Ignitor has been called the "stealth" ignition because of its quick installation and nearly undetectable presence under your distributor cap.

My engine had the Ignitor installed

I did replace it though.




http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

Electronic ignition systems are better than the old points/condensor setup (and my F32 is electronic ignition), but that just controls how the spark is generated. Timing (at least in mine) is still controlled by the distributor's advance mechanism.

Don't know if this is where you were going with your post, but if it was ... I didn't spend much time at all, but a quick look at the Ignitor site suggests it is just an electronic ignition replacement for old school points/condensor. I don't think it manages advance. If advance is the problem, and if the distributor is the thing that manages that, that's what you gotta fix. A different way of generating spark (even if a more reliable one) is of little use if the spark is still being generated at the wrong time.

Big D: Good point on the cap and rotor / plug wire! Most likely, everyones plug and coil wires are graphite cored, which tend to break down over time. One of the first things I did after taking ownership of Southern Cross was to replace the stock plug wires with 'lifetime guarantee' stainless steel cored marine wires. Sometimes it takes a process of eliminating the cheapest and easiest possibilities to find what is causing the problem. You have to do your periodic maintenance, and you have to know your engines. And never assume that a new part is beyond suspicion.

Hey All, found another website forum with more info, Like Danny B says check elec / Timing seems to be a major item for insp & repair, here is the site, this link pertaind to Chrysler engines, just feel your way back to the home page, lots of info.

Rodman: Looks like a lot of info on Ford marine also.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/ ... e&t=379014

Abster

You have to understand I never thought this could a problem. I replaced the wires plugs and everything inside the distributor right after I got the boat home. Even before I put her in the water. Well after reading AbsterMcgee last post I went and check. This is what I found. I believe the cap is the wrong one for my engine. In the center of the cap where the Coil plugs into does not spring up and down. Its been arching from the top of the cap to the rotor button on the distributor. I will post photos to show what I am referring too. I will go in the morning buy the correct cap see what happens. This could be the reason I burnt up two Coils also.

Rodman

or the rotor is wrong ? or both ? make sure you get marine stuff . some auto stuff looks close but many times can make a big differences you will need the brand name off the dist , Merc used 3 different brands incl their own .

prowlersfish wrote:or the rotor is wrong ? or both ? make sure you get marine stuff . some auto stuff looks close but many times can make a big differences you will need the brand name off the dist , Merc used 3 different brands incl their own .

Rotor make look funny thats because it came with that Ignitor I bought.

Ran across this video for stuck centrifical advance, like previously posted need some massaging & lube.

http://www.youtube.com/user/captlazybon ... D_VsVSvICw

Abster