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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 11:53 am
by todd brinkerhoff
RWS,

Do you have a price on that set-up? I think my shafts are ok, as they look at least 1 1/2". In the short term, its kind of hard to justify since their is only 700 hours on these motors. I was contemplating adding a fuel injection system. A buddy put one on his '67 Chevelle with a 454 and he said the performance difference and torque improvement was amazing. At $2000 a system, I wanted to make sure they work on a boat like this.

What do you think of my welding idea?

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 1:11 pm
by rossjo
How would you weld them? They're thin aluminum, so spot welds would be probable, but I'm not sure they would hold up over time (especially in salt water). I do think the Bennets on my 26 are welded to the bracket though (but it doesn't stay int he water).

I've got a set of Kiekhaefer K-Planes with no rams that I plan to use on something someday ...

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:53 pm
by todd brinkerhoff
I thought they were about 16 guage stainless steel. I'd probably do more than spot weld. I would put the new piece on the bottom of the existing plane and push the side nearest to the hull about a 1/2" forward. I figured by putting the new piece on the bottom, the water pressure would not be as much stress on the welds. The plan would be to make a mig weld seam along that entire edge on the bottom of the plane at the joint and then another seam along the joint on the top of the plane. I would also drill a few holes along the center of the existing plane and weld those spots also. I would also probably weld a spine from the bolted in actuator to the back edge of the entire plane to give it more rigidity. I'm also in fresh water in the great and finger lakes. I would finish by coating the entire thing with bottom paint or POR 15.

However, if they are aluminum, this probably won't work.

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:11 pm
by rossjo
You're right - they are stainless ... might work.

I just ran down and checked mine (and grabbed a cold one) ...

The brackets for the ram are held in place on my Bennets with 4 "rivets" that are welded in place.

Mine are 18"W x 11"L, and the boats runs 50+mph ... I noticed a huge difference in speed/economy when the tabs were broken. When I run, I set the throttle to about 2200RPM, watch the Flo-Scans, and then adjust the tabs up/down until the speed maximizes. Here in Charleston, its such a long ride to the Gulf Stream that I often tag along on the side of the wake of a big 60' sportie (if its calm) and surf out - I pick up 3-4knots that way.

I'd stick with TabMan - he can help you ...

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:16 pm
by todd brinkerhoff
You talked me into it...I'm grabbing myself a cold one...

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:44 pm
by captainmaniac
For what it's worth, I measured mine today as well (after haul out :cry: ) ... Boat Levellers on my F32 are 8" x 24".

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 9:35 pm
by todd brinkerhoff
Trojan must of have been given a special deal on that make and size...

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 10:11 pm
by captainmaniac
todd brinkerhoff wrote:Trojan must of have been given a special deal on that make and size...
Works well for me.

tab upgrade

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:18 am
by BobCT
Todd,

I have Boat Leveler on my 10m midcabin and upgraded to Bennett (tabs only) onto the existing setup.

I got a pair of scratch and dent tabs for around $250. I think they're 36x12 if I recall (I have the receipt)...much bigger than stock.

The guy at Bennett was concerned about having only one actuator on each tab as that size usually had two. I replaced all the h/w and used 4200 to give some extra strength and changed some screws to bolts/washers. The actuators are slightly off center, that was dictated by the new tab.

It's worked great and the boat responds really well. I don't have concrete before/after numbers though.


Bob

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:52 am
by Tabman
todd brinkerhoff wrote: Tabman,

What do you think of getting the Bennett 24X12 Trim board with drop fins and welding them to the existing Boat Leveler tabs. I would then redrill the holes for the actuators through both sheets. I'm trying to avoid drilling more holes in my boat and I have access to some very good welders.
That could work!

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:43 pm
by RWS
todd brinkerhoff wrote:RWS,

Do you have a price on that set-up? I think my shafts are ok, as they look at least 1 1/2". In the short term, its kind of hard to justify since their is only 700 hours on these motors. I was contemplating adding a fuel injection system.
Little in boating makes any financial sense.

Upgrading a pair of good running 454 Crusaders to diesel makes less sense.

If your engines were "wore plumb out" it could be an easier argument.

RWS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 5:01 pm
by todd brinkerhoff
Tom (AKA Tabman),

Can you check your scratch and dent supply for 24X12DF. If you have a set I will give you a call. I talked to my welding guy, and he is set up with stainless wire for his mig welder.

Thanks you all for your input,
Todd

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:49 pm
by alexander38
Hey guy let's keep this as a trim-tab topic line,we can beat gas vs #2 fuel oil iin a other topic line. :lol: thanks. and lets pick the Tabb man Smarts out of his brains before he goes off fishing somewhere. :D

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:55 pm
by Tabman
todd brinkerhoff wrote:Tom (AKA Tabman),

Can you check your scratch and dent supply for 24X12DF. If you have a set I will give you a call. I talked to my welding guy, and he is set up with stainless wire for his mig welder.

Thanks you all for your input,
Todd
Todd,

I checked first thing this morning and unfortunately we don't have any :(

The Part Number is TPO2412DF and you need two of them. I would check with your favorite dealers or online and see what your best deal is. It will be a special order since I don't think anyone is going to stock them.

Tom
Bennett Marine

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:47 pm
by todd brinkerhoff
Thanks Tom