10 meter Int 1986 questions

todd brinkerhoff · Post by **todd brinkerhoff** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:04 pm

If the philosophy is that you plan to spend the money replacing all the systems anyway and you have no issue with the cost associated with that plan, I don't get the issue with spending the $800.00 on a survey. It's easy enouph to turn everything on to see if it works for that moment. My issue would be on the structural integrity and future operational integrity. Even though the 10M has a good history of structural integrity, the super structure can still be an issue. And getting a couple engines started is a far stretch from determining what's going on inside. Most surveyors will send out an oil sample to a lab to see what is wearing and how fast.

Of course for under $10,000, I guess if all else fails you could probably part it out and recoup most of your expenses.

mhandley · Post by **mhandley** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 6:19 pm

I bought my 1985 10 meter flybridge last December when she was on the deck.

Paid a bit more than you, but she's in better shape than what you described (at least that's what I have to tell myself to keep from feeling bad).

Anyhow, similar deal. And it has worked out very well.

I'm with Prowler. Just do the sea trial and close.

The rest will fall into place as you work on her and get to know her.

Pretty unlikely that she'll have a wet spot in the hull.

Compression?
Its a bit of work, but you can't go wrong with a compression check. However, any crusader with those low hours will be just fine. You can get a gage for that a Precision Tool or Harbor Freight.

I'm still gettn to know my boat, and I have asked some pretty stupid questions as Prowler will confirm - but I'm in love with her and am delighted to own such a proud ship.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 7:57 am

the new boat owner forgets to open the seacock on his brand new, 2011 model boat and leaves the dock, getting on plane quickly.

He hits a floating fencepost at 25 knots and damages the hull

The engines overheat, and one of the heads warps as a result.

He ends up on a sandbar and drags his running gear, bending the strut and shaft out of alignment and damaging one of the rudders.

The boat has less than 5 hours on it and now requires expensive engine, hull and driveline repairs.

That survey will give you a laundry list of what needs attention and more importantly, alert you to something that you might not otherwise be aware of.

SAFETY, SECURITY and PEACE OF MIND

It's far better than hearing the question from your wife below..... "Honey, why is the carpet wet ans where is all this water coming from?"

RWS

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 8:53 am

mhandley wrote:
I'm with Prowler. Just do the sea trial and close.

I'm still getting to know my boat, and I have asked some pretty stupid questions as Prowler will confirm .

I must be talking in my sleep because I do not remember saying that say that , I said "Hear them run and go from there" . The boat has been sitting so a sea trail may not go well due to fuel issues , I would expect fuel issues .
Survey ?? that would depend on what you know about boats , The only reasoner I have had one is because the bank and or insurance company require it. But I have a good knowledge about boats. And your buying a project boat not a turn key at top dollar , With that said a survey may not be a bad idea , depending on your knowledge and maybe need for insurance anyway.

Compression test , My take on this is not a popular one , If the engine(s) run good and don't miss , I would not waste my time ,a engine thats been sitting most likely will test "bad" and after a few hour of good hard running check good ( after everything re seats ) . But this takes a good "trained" ear . I have never been burnt by not doing a compression test. I have in fact bought a boat and that were rejected by others due to a poor test and never had a issue .Again this is depending on your knowledge . IF the engine missing , noisy etc. then get a pro to check it out

Remember this all depends on your level of knowledge and your skills

stupid questions ? there are none . But I have given some stupid answers

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:01 pm

thanks guys for all the responses. Well I did the compression test and the lowest was 130, Rigged up the hose and after the fuel pump primed itself both engines fired right up. They sounded good. I've now turned my attention to the gen. It's an Onan 6.5. Where's the spark plug? I'm very comfortable working on and troubleshooting engine/electrical problems. I've owned boat and worked on project boats before. Any knowledge on the Gen would be great as I'm going to try and fire her up today. Then on the AC unit. Why are there toggle switches for the blowers on the main power panel and also on the dash panel? Are the toggles on the main power panel the master switch that feels the dash panel? Looks as though I'm going to buy it since both engines run. I know they need to go on a sea trail but knowing the lower ends are good I can always fixed a carb/heat exchanges/distributer..

Thanks again for all of your advice, priceless...

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:25 pm

The switches on the main panel (below the helm) APPEAR to be toggle switches, however they are actually BREAKERS!

Careful here as many have (including myself) not realized this and replaced a bad breaker with a toggle switch.

The breakers are made by AIRPAX and are available through BEACON MARINE and MARINE TECH.

By the way, when I got my boat over half of those breakers had already been changed oer to toggle switches and it was only by accident that I finally realized what they were.

The toggle switches on the dash are simple toggle switches, most are single pole single throw, however several are DPDT.

careful eith that Onan gen set as parts can be expensive. I got 1 1/2 seasons out of mine. When it was time to work on iot the nuts/bolts were so rusty they twisted off, so rather than put good $ after bad, I replaced the unit with a small diesel genset.

Please post some pictures!

RWS

smiller192 · Post by **smiller192** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:15 pm

I have pdf files of both the parts and service manual for the MCCk series of gensets. Would be happy to send them to you, get me your email address if interested. Good luck with your new trojan

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 1:38 pm

OK, I gave up on trying to find the spark plug(s) on the Onan. I wanted to pull them and turn it over. So I just turned it over and it just turned over, and over and over. Opened the electrical panel and found a wire that popped off it's leed to one of the fuses. Turned it over and she started. Latest set of issues: while testing the AC I hooked up the water line and the copper tubing was split & the fan is frozen, any recommendations on a new one? The steering isn't working as well. I haven't looked into this at all, any suggetions where to start? The wife took lots of pics so I'll post some shortly. I"ll show some before and after, she cleaned up nicely!! but we're not done.

Thx.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:18 pm

the impellers on the raw water side of the genny and engines could be bad from sitting so long.

Better check these and also check for good flow otherwise you risk burning up an engine for want of a $40.00 part.

The steering problem may be a simple matter of pumping up the air over hydraulic "HYNAUTIC " tank, as i recall a bicycle pump and 30-35 lbs pressure will do. Keep a pump on board in the event it leaks down as some will over several months.

You will find the fitting on the port side of the transom, behind the the little removable panel at the gunnell.

Please provide more specific info on the AC problem.

Sounds like you are now an OWNER.

Good progress !

RWS

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:49 pm

With this Onan Gen there are NO gauges?? I'll look into replacing the impeller.

Thanks for the info on the steering, I'll check it out tonight.

Thanks

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:38 pm

don't forget about the impellers on the Crusaders too !

Ditto the lack of guages on the Onan.

When I up[graded to the little diesel genny I added oil pressure, water temp and a fuel gage to the instrument panel.

Just good stuff to be aware of to head off a potential problem before it gets too serious or expensive or worse - leaving you stranded.

RWS

davescarrs · Post by **davescarrs** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:57 am

I found myself in the same situation as you, except no title. I had even more hoops to jump through. However, it was all worth it. I took the gamble and bought the boat without having the engines started (wasn't part of the deal or an option).

*Carbs were rebuilt.
*All new canvas ($1,900)
*A/C I messed with the wiring and somehow got it to work (on/off works- not adjustable temp settings).
*Reupholstered the front seats.
* Cetol teak in back
*The upholstery in cockpit of boat was falling apart and nasty, but I took apart cleaned and restapled and it was fine.
*I had to fill the steering with air as described by other posters.
*Over the last couple years I've done the cutlass bearings (removing the drive shaft to do it). had the helm steering box gone through. replaced risers and elbows, etc, etc, etc.

How I found her:

How she looks:

This site is an excellent resource for info, there is pretty much nothing you can't do if your willing to get your hands dirty!!!!!

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:25 pm

Nice Job Dave

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:02 pm

GREAT STUFF DAVE !

Shows just what can be done.

Are these great boats or what?

RWS

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:20 pm

Great job Dave,
Here are some before & after pics more to come when she gets wet.
http://10metertrojan.shutterfly.com/pictures/17