Operating Temp for 454's

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:43 pm

Looks as though I solved the problem, at least this one.
to recap:
1. Put into water: port ran hot 200, Starboard ran 180.
2. Changed both impellers and thermostats.
3. Port ran 170, starboard still ran 180.
4. Took her out and the starboard ran hot 190-200.
5. Took the heat exchanger off and cleaned it. Didn't look that bad.
6. Starboard still ran 190-200.
7. Was ready to take off the exhaust manifolds but decided to take another look at the easier thing first, the seacock/strainer.
8. Took out the strainer and noticed that it was put in backwards, plus the line hose from the strainer to the raw water pump was 1"3/8 when the seacock to strainer hose was 1" 1/4.
9. Had to replace the nipple on the strainer to accommodate the 1" 1/4 hose.
10. Put it back together and it ran at 160.

Now on to the next issue.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 5:30 pm

That's great. Check the simple things first, they're usually the cheapest fixes.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:51 am

the air leak makes real sense. Those impellers can really move some water and create a great deal of suction as I found out with my crash pumps.

I wonder if the air would contribute to the steam visable in the exhaust?

RWS

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:36 am

I was wondering about the steam as well. I'll let you know the next time I take her out, hopefully this week.

RWS - question about the head. On the main control panel there's a switch labeled "head" When I turn it on the pump starts for the head. I don't understand this setup. Shouldn't the switch be in the head itself so when your finished you can hit the switch when flushing? What am I missing here??

Chris

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:56 am

Lumpy wrote:I was wondering about the steam as well. I'll let you know the next time I take her out, hopefully this week.

RWS - question about the head. On the main control panel there's a switch labeled "head" When I turn it on the pump starts for the head. I don't understand this setup. Shouldn't the switch be in the head itself so when your finished you can hit the switch when flushing? What am I missing here??

Chris

The vacuflush setup is designed to build up vacuum in th etank and hold it.

A vacuum sensor turns the vacuum motor(pump) off once the unit reaches the correct vacuum negative pressure.

If you are on and or around the boat, simply leave it on.

If it cycles by itself, this indicates a leak, sometimes a hose, more than likely the bottom bowl seal which can oftentimes be revived with an application of baby oil, just don't get carried away.

The vacuflush is a very efficient, clean and easy to maintain foolproof system.

RWS

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:15 pm

Once the pump is turned on how long should it take to build up enough pressure to turn off?

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:13 pm

The factory spec for today's vacuum generators is 60 to 90 seconds as being acceptable. They can shut down within as little as 15 to 30 seconds if everything is in optimum working order. The earlier versions may have a different spec. Perhaps RWS can give you a typical time on his.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:18 pm

this REALLY needs to be a new thread.

RWS

jhalb · Post by **jhalb** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 8:23 pm

My port is running 160 but the starboard is running only 130. I do get some white smoke from my starboard at 3300 RPMs. Do I need to get this looked at?