Trojan Boat Forum

Fridge is most likely AC only. If replacing, go with a marine unit AC/DC; very expensive, or do what I and a lot of others do and go for a regular household unit. There are a few sizes to choose from and compared to marine, the price is right. I bought an inverter to run it and other 120 volt stuff while on the hook. You should also check the head for proper operation; seals have probably gotten stiff over time. Oh and don't forget to check all the fire extinguishers.

Big D, ya, I kinda figured the fridge was AC only. When and if I replace it, I'll need to figure out a way to get one in there not to mention get that one out. As for the pooper, I'm planning to rip it apart and replace seal if they are still available and re-plum it with a holding tank. Good point about the fire extinguishers. I counted five of them on the boat but didn't even think to see if they were good or not.

Thanks for the advice..

Jim

I was finally able to get insurance for the boat. I had to have a surveyor come out and do an inspection of the boat before the insurance company would pick it up. That went okay but identified a bunch of stuff that needs to be updated or repaired before I float her again. The biggest thing was the old two wire shore line which will also lead to a re-wire of all the AC components. He wasn't happy with the plug recepticles down in the engine area for the fridge or the outlet that was installed to support the battery charger. Also pinged me pretty hard over the "No holding Tank". Overall, the surveyor was quite surprised about how well the hull was. He did find some noticeable rot under the rub rail on the port side that will need some attention. He also recommended that I replace all the hoses down below for the water and exhaust and also to think about replacing the fuel tanks. He said they do not comply with the current standards.
After he left, I decided to poke a little harder at the spot he identified on the rub rail and found that the rot is worse than what I had imagined. Looks like I'm gonna have to get in behind the rub-rail and replace a section of the wood frame that the rail screws into and the top deck also screws into that will actually hold the screws. From what I can see, there is nothing left to screw into that will hold. it also looks to be about a 6 foot section. I didn't think it was that bad because when looking from inside, it looks to be solid. This is going to be a fun job....NOT....It also looks like I'll have the same issue to tackle on the other side as well. But on a good note, that seems to be the only two bad spots.
Overall, I'm pleased with the survey and now have a list of things to tackle over the winter. On a side note, does anyone on here have any recommendations on where to get an electrical distribution panel for both AC and DC so that I can get the elecrical updated.

Glad it went well

Looks like it worked out for ya. Beacon may have AC/DC panels. Blue Seas and Bep make good panels but expensive. Where are you located? Try marine salvage stores, there are several outfits States side.

Try Great Lakes Skipper for AC/DC panels.

Welcome aboard and good luck, there is no better time waster than tinkering on boats!

I bought a Blue Sea (16) AC//(8)12V DC panel from C-ME marine sales for just over 500.00 Nice, but pricey. Model # was 8085.

Well, I'm just about there. I hope to make my launch date. Sorry, I don't have but a few pics of the work I have done. I'll post them in my PB account if anyone wants to take a looksie...
UPDATE: Plumbed a new holding tank, plumbed a new water tank, ran all new hoses for both.
Repaired the portside rot which was way more than I had expected. Pretty much had to replace about a 9 foot section of the sheer clamp and then replace about a 24 foot section two feet wide from the cabin back to the stern. That was a job...
stripped the transom and now trying to decide on a new name and what to coat it with... I'm thinking CETOL Light with a few top coats of CETOL Gloss.
Washed and prepped the top deck for CETOL Natural.
Sanded the sides and have them ready for paint.
Sanded and painted the bottom with bottomKote.
Pulled the Shaft coupler and boy am I glad I did. It was shot.
Last think on the list is to put the swim platform back on and build a swim ladder for it.
I also installed a new fuel vapor sensor and a two bank battery charger along with an AC panel for the new three wire 30 amp shore power service.
I never thought it would be this involved but I'm loving every minute of it.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I also revamped an old trailer of mine to fit the TROJAN. I extended it by 6 feet and added two new 6,000 pound axles to it with electric brakes. I also added a center sliding channel to make launching and retrieving a little easier. Not to mention if I ever decide to put her back on blocks again. The only thing I don't like is that I should have gotten different axles. I should have gotten axles that conformed to the v angles of the trailer frames. So it's gonna sit a little higher than I would like it too.

Picks will be coming...

That's great Jim. Sounds like you're well on your way. Yes, pics please!

Captains Varnish would be a better choice for the transom & toe rails. I use Cetol on my decks & it burns off after about 3 weeks & needs to be recoated.

1967 seavoyager wrote:Captains Varnish would be a better choice for the transom & toe rails. I use Cetol on my decks & it burns off after about 3 weeks & needs to be recoated.

Not to hijack the thread, but Cetol burning off after 3 weeks? What version of Cetol are you using? My swim platform and flybridge steps (original Cetol) have been good for 3-4 years, and my pulpit (Cetol Light with Cetol Gloss over top) stood up for 3-4 as well.

Jim : for some examples of the look, here are some shots I have from my 'wood finishes' gallery. Examples of regular Cetol, Cetol Light+Gloss, Varnish, and Epiphanes No Sand Varnish.

Here are links to my 'wood finishes' gallery:
Wood Finish examples (part 1)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... f=1&t=3206

Wood Finish examples (part 2)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... =1&t=12738

Make sure you pick something that is not slippery when wet for surfaces people will walk on... (eg Cetol Gloss or Varnish are bad topcoats for decks because they get slippery; regular Cetol is safe)

captainmaniac wrote:

1967 seavoyager wrote:Captains Varnish would be a better choice for the transom & toe rails. I use Cetol on my decks & it burns off after about 3 weeks & needs to be recoated.

Not to hijack the thread, but Cetol burning off after 3 weeks? What version of Cetol are you using? My swim platform and flybridge steps (original Cetol) have been good for 3-4 years, and my pulpit (Cetol Light with Cetol Gloss over top) stood up for 3-4 as well.

Jim : for some examples of the look, here are some shots I have from my 'wood finishes' gallery. Examples of regular Cetol, Cetol Light+Gloss, Varnish, and Epiphanes No Sand Varnish.

http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/mm20 ... 0finishes/

Make sure you pick something that is not slippery when wet for surfaces people will walk on... (eg Cetol Gloss or Varnish are bad topcoats for decks because they get slippery; regular Cetol is safe)

What captainmaniac said! Was wondering the same thing myself. I used cetol on my swim platform, spray rails, steps to bridge and NO problems. Getting ready to launch boat and noticed a couple of edges 'worn' from a lot of use but nothing 'burned'. Steps to the bridge get the most use except for the cockpit steps.