Page 2 of 9

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:58 pm
by gettaway
the 165's wearing new paint

I sprayed them with Interlux Brightsides single part polyurethane....
Image

Image
Image

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:00 pm
by gettaway
Image

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:00 pm
by gettaway
if you look close, you can see my weiner!

:shock:


Image

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:25 pm
by gettaway
This is the raw water pump mount, keep in mind that the "bell" of the pully goes aft so the belt will align with the crank pulley. These have been powder coated black since the photos, and the front motor mount will not be used in the Trojan, I have used it as it fits the dolly I made while the engines are in the garage.

Image

Image

Image

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:44 pm
by gettaway
here are some of the powder coated parts


transmission & raw water pump mounts, circulation pump pulley
Image
raw water pump mount
Image

Engine mount, circulation and raw water pump pulleys, alternator adjusting bracket
Image

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:53 pm
by gettaway
a decent photo

Image

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:57 pm
by bkwesq
When you say you "sprayed" the paint, from a paint sprayer or spray can?

They look great and I have a rebuilt 318 in my garage and I hate Chrysler blue!

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:16 pm
by Lawman
Very nice job, I commend you for thinking outside the box, I've never seen this done before, lots of work but worth it. Please get rid of those Fram oil filters and by the way, I must say you do have a nice looking weiner !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:26 pm
by gettaway
bkwesq

I sprayed the paint using an HVLP paint gun, I followed the spraying instructions on the can and used 216 spray thinner.

turned our great and from past experience, once brightsides fully cures, its pretty darn durable.

thanks for the compliment btw

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:37 pm
by gettaway
lawman,

thanks for noticing my weiner...lol, he is quite the character, funny he always ends up in the photos...

I left the filters on to paint but will change the oil and filters when I reassemble the engines.

Just curious as to why you said that about the Fram filters though?
I dont really have a preference.

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:24 pm
by alexander38
fram's have be known to come apart :wink: nice looking job you're doin'

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:05 pm
by prowlersfish
Frams have a thin "shell" . I would use a AC filter myself (OEM for GM )

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:38 pm
by Molly Too
Question (showing my ignorance with this one). How will the powder coat and brightesides hold up to heat, oil, fuel, vapors, cleaners, etc.?

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 10:59 pm
by prowlersfish
Good question Mel , I don't know myself But on my engines I use rustoleum ( not engine paint ) and it holds up real well ( cummins expert told me to use it ), I do use a very high temp paint on my exhaust ports and turbo , but the rustoleum holds up else where , I would thing other good paints would also hold up except the very hot areas

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:29 pm
by gettaway
powder coat: I have used powder coating in all kinds of fleet and industrical applications and I can say it is an amazing process.

I powder coated the valve cover on a Lehman diesel in my previous boat, after 6+ years it shined like a new penny and it is extremely tough.
It is important to tell you powder coater the application the parts are going in because there all are kind of powders, they even have ultra high temp coating for hot rod exhausts. ($$$$$)


As far as Brightsides, I am not 100% certain how this will hold up, I do know that if you put your hand on a black painted car, boat lawn chair etc in the sun in summer, you can almost not hold you had on it. Brightsides does very well in the marine environment, it bonds well, and once cured is very abrasion reisistant and shines a for years.
My thought is that it is chemical, gas and oil resisitant (per interlux's claims) it can withstand full hot sun all day every day, it should do fine on a water cooled boat engine. plus if rattle can paint works fine, this should do much better.

I am guessin it will most likely burn off in the hot spots of the exhaust manifold where it joins the head, but I can live with that, and after the rust bucket engines that I pulled out, I wanted something that looks good but will help slow the corrosion process.
I cleaned the engines with simple green, mineral spirits, acetone and then sanded them with 220 grit sand paper, I then wiped them down with the 216 thinner and primed with two coats of self etching primer and rustoleum rust inhibitor on the transmissions, as they were a little rough.

I have applied two coats of bright sides and they look prety darn good. hopefully they will stay this way for a while.