1978 F-28 New Owner and ignition & power problems

[BMILLER]

All three batteries are absolutley brand new and fully charged. The 3rd battery is for the generator and not installed yet to leave room for my big feet while working down there. I even switched them from side to side. I did not that I get a multimeter reading of about 18 + volts on the port battery and 16+ on the starboard with nothing on.........but only about 13.67 +/= when cables are removed................just another problem to overcome. I'm struggling to determine "where to start" to address these multiple issues. BTW the starting batteries are 800/1000 amp and the DP is 675. I have the onboard charger disconnected (C Charger 2000) and will install a Genius Gen4 which I have instead.

[BMILLER]

I took everyone's advise, took a deep breath, calmed down about the previous owner, cleared my head went back to try to figure out this power problem. My first surprize was that the brand new starboard was now dead...........0.004 volts. Died in 2 days. Somewhere the is a BIG draw. I carefully made certain a switches were off. Port battery is still showing 16+ volts. Gonna take along a second multimeter next time I go. Pulled the 12v panel to check behind it..............OMG !!!!!!! Wire connections just twisted together and covered with what looks like masking tape. Then I pulled the fwd bilge switch to put on a set of jumpers to get the pump working..........water now over 6in deep. The hot wire to this switch is 8ga...........huh.....?? 8ga to a bilge pump? Tried to access the pump through the cuddy floor panel..........its riveted down........not screws, not just laid in place.........rivets. 'Bout nowI'm frustrated, mad and well, just gave up. Called the marina service center, explained my issues and told them to come diagnose this disaster. The are running 2 weeks behind...................so, my next plan is to drill a in the cuddy floor to access the area and use a livewell bump and battery to pump out the bilge. Needless to say the better half is livid to put in mildly. If the marina guys say its gonna cost big $$$$ to get the power and engines back on line then this F-28 will be pulled and sold for parts or whatever. I'm old school, I don't and won't shaft some other potential owner........ (

[Commissionpoint]

If the marina guys say its gonna cost big $$$$ to get the power and engines back on line then this F-28 will be pulled and sold for parts or whatever. I'm old school, I don't and won't shaft some other potential owner........ (

I am sure if you decide to sell her due to repairs being out of the scope of your experience and/or budget that there are many interested folks around here. I moved out of Texas in 1975 or I myself might even be interested. I just live too far away now.

Better idea is to just hang in there, and if you have questions ask them here. If the hatch in your cabin is riveted shut why not just drill out the rivets instead of drilling a hole in your cabin sole? I am sure if you go about things in a calm and rational manner you will be able to sort most of these issues yourself and be able to save that cash for the gas dock.

[k9th]

Welcome aboard.

[gettaway]

bmiller,

first, if you are really reading 18+ volts, you have a problem with your battey charger or your batteries are wired in series, and most likely giving 24Vdc, but they have depleated to 18Vdc. this would certainly explain why your 12 V electrical components are either not working or are fried.

Check this first and remove one battery from your bank and use one (1) 12 Vdc battery to supply power to an engine and the house panel. then check your voltage again. you should not get a reading any higher than about 14.3-4 with the charger charging and you should be back down around 12.5 when the charger is not charging.

Bilge pump,

can you access the pump? if so, is there an external water level switch you can raise to see if the pump works in auto ?

best of luck and like other posts have suggested, keep your cool and think through the problems, go to west marine and purchase "The 12 V bible" it will help you understand the basics of 12Vdc wiring and circuts and it will be a great guide as you work through these issues.

If you can read schematics, I am sure someone here has a copy of the 12 V electrical schematic that might help you make sense of the 12 Vdc system in your boat.

hope this helps

[BMILLER]

Got back home and hooked my multimeter to my other boat batteries............still reading 16-18 volts. Switched to my other multimeter............12.6. Low battery in first meter low. Guess I get the dumb *** for that one.

Update on the boat. Marine tech got to it and disconnected EVERYTHING other than the starter circuit and 12vdc power to the panel. Engines fire up instantly. He stated he has NEVER seen such a wiring mess. He got two of the pumps working, but the center one is fried/melted. He tried to trace the wiring run but could not find the origin or a breaker. Now that the boat is "stable" electrically on the DC side I have some confidence in getting it updated over the winter.

First project is to remove every PO added radio, amp, light and extension cord one at a time and start all over. This time the add-ons I keep (if any) will run through separate house batteries and fuse panel/s. Before I go crazy on the instruments not all working, I'm gonna connect one of the voltmeters to a separate source and see it it actually works. All four meter are INOP. Seems strange all don't register. They are original, but........????????. Does anyone know what the toggle on the 12v panel is for? One on Ac panel is also unmarked but that's the gen start switch. The AC breakers are not marked either........another issue.

Thanks to all who are are contributing to my issues..........at least I provide some new entertainment value.........).