Trojan Boat Forum

Here are a couple of links for the fuse replacement.

http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... ight=fuses

http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... ight=fuses

summer storm wrote:

mitch wrote:prowlersfish

THIS TIME YOU ARE WRONG !

The rewire price was for a similar 43 foot boat, if you don't belive, google it yourself. If you insist, I'll forward the web page?

The same goes for you, "your just posting to post"

Please, get off my back

Oh boy, I am in trouble again

The boat in question is 26 foot not 43 foot

That was the point thanks

Yes, 26, not 43, maybe cheaper to rewire, good luck

Just amazing

Yes, with the help of this site, the members, someone can rewire a boat themselfs and save a lot of money.

Along the topic of updating the electrical system. Would it seem feasible to relocate an F28 DC fuse panel to right below the lower wheel? It would be much easier to access I think. And the upgrade would be to a Blue Seas ATC fuses. And could I use "jumper" wires to transfer the power to the new location w/o removing the OEM wiring. It should only be a 6ft run max. I'd fabricate and new door/cabinet flush with the existing structure below the wheel, about knee high.

As you know from my previous posts, I have a PO wiring mess on my boat and have broken my issues down to addressing one area at a time...i.e. fwd, center and aft as opposed to getting overwhelmed by looking at the complete rewire job.

I'm installing a seperate battery, ATC fuse setup and switches just to run all the external lights, pumps and accessories aft of the salon door.

Additional battery and ATC fuse, switches topside to address flybridge radios, remote floodlight, courtesy lights and any other future add-ons.

For me, this is the easiest way to address my issues, maybe more expensive but more easy to understand and service. I nlow have the complete wiring diagrams, but the POs altered too much for them to be dependable.

BMILLER,

To re locate your fuse blocks, you'll have to replace them with contact strips to attach the the load and jumper wires to. The trick is to be sure that the wire gauge that you choose is sized correctly for the amount of current / lead length. If you look back a couple of posts, you'll see a link that describes how I did this exact thing although I used breakers to replace the fuse blocks in their new location.

hope this helps.

Paul is correct , and I may add any time you splice (add a jumper wire as you put it ) that give another place for passable issue later on . So make sure any splices are done right .

captainmaniac wrote:+

As others have said, get in writing exactly what they will and won't do for the price, and guarantee that they aren't done until everything works right.

As usual you guys hammer home the important parts. I will talk more at lenght to them later this month.

You guys are right too, I should be able to do it myself with help.

I completely re-wired a 36' EGG I was restoring a couple years ago. Bill : $6,791.00, includung all new Nav lights. This was $60.00 /hr Cash.
I spent most of a day just creating the new diagram on paper. Labor was reduced since I already had much of the boat ripped apart, making it easier to run a new flelible chase front to back, and up to the fly bridge.


Ron

prowlersfish wrote:Just a palk park . When they see the boat it will be higher . Wire must be marine grade and should be tined wire . I recc ancour wire ,costly but worth it.

Yes the price will go up. I figured 1200 in materials alone to just the 110 system and batt charger in mine. I just saw a quote for a complete rewire on a Grand Banks (around 38') that was $25,000 incl labor and materials.

Get EVERYTHING in writing and maybe check some references.