Trojan Boat Forum

Yep seperate berths no center island berth. I wish I could help with your shelves but not even going to guess.

Tri-Guy wrote:Yep seperate berths no center island berth. I wish I could help with your shelves but not even going to guess.

it's the nature of the beast i guess with certain things being hidden. i'll just continue to inspect them and hope for the best.

F.Y.I. My 78 F-32 factory rails are a teak colored plastic/rubber. I know this because I've drilled them out a few times for new through bolts. They have turned gray over time but they are light brown inside. John Leeds from Marine Tech said Trojan experimented with this material from sometime in the late 70s.

ok,

this post is named in my honor, I thought for the last year and a half that the rub rails were aluminum or some other material, I had other projects to make the boat either more comfortable inside or seaworthy and didnt may much mind to the rub rails. two weeks ago when I began to prep them to REPAINT, yes they were painted before, i realized they were wood. I do not belive they are teak though, they are a very tight grain and seem "hard" teak is fairly soft and an open grain especially when you get bare wood wet.

I have a teak swim step, teak cockpit rail, teak trim on the side panel and the bridge helm sliding doors. after coming from a tiawan trawler, that is enough teak for me.

ok,

this post is named in my honor, I thought for the last year and a half that the rub rails were aluminum or some other material, I had other projects to make the boat either more comfortable inside or seaworthy and didnt may much mind to the rub rails. two weeks ago when I began to prep them to REPAINT, yes they were painted before, i realized they were wood. I do not belive they are teak though, they are a very tight grain and seem "hard" teak is fairly soft and an open grain especially when you get bare wood wet.

I have a teak swim step, teak cockpit rail, teak trim on the side panel and the bridge helm sliding doors. after coming from a tiawan trawler, that is enough teak for me.

alexander38 wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:I am afraid of what I may find . I wish I did not have the spray rails

design flaw in your boat, if they had aft cabins and decks you wouldn't need them... now go find some teak or good Virginia live oak and make her look prudy....

Let me see 2 pieces of wood to control spray on my boat and a cabin to do the same on yours ? mmmm ,I think Trojan got it right

ok The whole teak rub rail has me thinking of a project for next winter,,I hate the rubber one...

prowlersfish wrote:

alexander38 wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:I am afraid of what I may find . I wish I did not have the spray rails

design flaw in your boat, if they had aft cabins and decks you wouldn't need them... now go find some teak or good Virginia live oak and make her look prudy....

Let me see 2 pieces of wood to control spray on my boat and a cabin to do the same on yours ? mmmm ,I think Trojan got it right

not IMPO I like the full camper on a rainey day and the Queen size bed..and of course the bath tub and no spray rails...

I really have not noticed any difference without the spray rails but I am not running in as rough water as you big water guys. What I am having a hard time deciding is what kind of rubrail to install. My teak rubrail is in very bad condition and had been patched many times by po. Can`t decide on white or black. Really dont want the maintenance of wood.

For the record, most pre 80's trojans had teak rubrails with ss to protect the teak from damage and mahogany splash rails (painted black) They used teak for looks and longevity. It is hard to kill teak. It is a close grained hardwood and is full of natural oils. Very durable and resists rot incredably. Maintaining it IMHO is not difficult. I sanded mine with 120 to remove gray wood. Than 220 and wiped down with acetone before the first coat of Cetol. This is an important step as it removes the surface oils so the first coat of Cetol soaks into the top fibers and bonds with the wood. light sand with 320 and recoat 3 times without sanding. two final coats of Cetol gloss. 320 before the last coat of gloss. Polish and reinstall ss. Do NOT bed down ss. Not necessary, messy and holds moisture. Finish with a bead of chaulk at the seam between the teak and fiberglass. I used black 4200. Looks great and will outlast paint. I did my 74 tri cabin 4 summers ago and it still looks great.jimbo36

I am totally lost here my 78 f28 has pure aluminum rub rail all the way round, I bought enough new to re-do the whole way around and it had some that was chaffed through, rubbing on a dock or somethingl.

The f28 has not splash rails, does it just not need one or did it once have them, if so I cannot see any sign of attachment points.

davidsmith wrote:I really have not noticed any difference without the spray rails but I am not running in as rough water as you big water guys. What I am having a hard time deciding is what kind of rubrail to install. My teak rubrail is in very bad condition and had been patched many times by po. Can`t decide on white or black. Really dont want the maintenance of wood.

Mine came white from Trojan as far as I know , Mine was built late 77 . I wonder is the teak you have was a option ? The same rub rail I have was use by Viking in 89 ( had to replace a section on one )

Here's the original Toe/Rub rail on my 1972 Sea Raider. I clean it annually with Powered tide laundry detergent with bleach, then oil it. Takes maybe 1 hr and 2-3 beers..............John