Trojan Boat Forum

jefflaw35 wrote:i easier to clean,......

In our size boats Jeff, I just pull the remnant, mark a new one and throw it out!I get new carpet every twelve months whether i need it or not!!!

Well.......I may have a diff opinion on this.....my back deck is teak, my fly bridge is wood, my fore deck is wood, so when i head for the salon like something soft on my bare feet.......Pulled the old stuff up and used it for a pattern and it worked great.....I measured and went to home depot and order what I wanted., love it...... ...my 2 cents.........John

Commissionpoint wrote:Nancy and John did a really nice job putting down the carpet in the 32 I am buying from them. They chose a berber and had all the hatch cutouts bonded along the edges. Mayabe she will read this and if she has some pictures will post them.

Thanks, Michael. The binding is actually sewn, not bonded, and I wish it were a sturdier material, but there was no such thing readily available at the time. I've done some hand mending in spots. The installer had a portable electric binder. Pretty slick. This photo below gives a pretty good idea of it - sorry for the big size - too lazy to crop and upload.

The linoleum in the galley and companionway area has worked well for us, but definitely was a compromise in boatiness. Very easy to keep clean and it's not as slippery as you'd think when wet. The previous owner had linoleum, too, but no hatch cutouts, so it had to go. Lifting floor coverings to get to hatches? No, thank you. The photo below shows the aluminum strips that span the openings. I installed them - what a pain. But they do the job.

it's not a lot of square footage, so the cost per square is not a real issue

went to a local carpet place, choose a good quality indoor outdoor tight weave nice color mix and gave them the old one to use as a pattern.

They cut it and sewed the binding on

THis way it fits perfect

looks good

and can be easily lifted for access to the storage and bilge

also Ican easily remove it as needed set it on the dock and wash the whole damn thing down if I need to.

I ordered some addl and glued it to the famous Doris Day curved stairway steps

RWS

We have berber in ours, kind of a sand color. It has held up well, and is easy to deal with. I will likely change it out, next season, as we plan on updating the interior.

The thing about re-carpeting a boat is the labor can easily be triple or more than the price of the carpet itself especially if you have to upholster steps and the like. This is more so on the bigger boats. I have a guy that specializes in boat installations and he is expensive. The thing is though, when he is finished, it looks like a factory installation. He wraps and bevels the hatches, upholsters vertical surfaces, etc. just like they do in the factory.
With the expence of this kind of installation, you want to use the highest grade of carpet you can afford. With carpet, you truly get what you pay for. It all looks good when its new.

I have carpet that ignores the hatches and is just split in the middle offset to edge of where centre hatch meets an engine hatch. Every day access is through the centre floor hatches, so only requires the carpet to be folded back to lift those hatches. I like the clean continuous look without the break of binding of each hatch. My floor has two large hatches for engine access (Port & Starboard) with two narrow centre hatches for oil and engine checks along with access to the genny at centre rear of engine room. Seems to work fine and I'm planning to replace with berber next year. Note: my boat is child free

It goes under the edge of the sliding side cupboard base and meets the edge of sliding doors and the bulkhead at helm which seems to keep it in place. I use a runner to cover the seam which will likely go when the berber goes down (with bound edges). I have templated the two pieces using brown paper to help the carpet store get the size right rather than follow a sketch.
I see no need for easy access to the hatch under the helm as it seems to only be for access to run wires etc: so it remains covered by the removable carpet.
As we are going to be aboard for months rather than the normal weekend I think I will replace galley & dinette with teak and holly laminated plywood glued?? to existing floor. Still trying to decide on where/if to do the joints.

I just bought a remenant from a local carpet place, put a good quality pad down, cut the carpet and had all the edges bound so I can remove it, I had a friend of mine do the steps, took hours but looked good when he was done, I do not know if I could have got the same result. I take my removable piece out at the end of the season have it profesionally cleaned and scotch gaurd it.

Mike Kulp wrote:I just bought a remenant from a local carpet place, put a good quality pad down, cut the carpet and had all the edges bound so I can remove it, I had a friend of mine do the steps, took hours but looked good when he was done, I do not know if I could have got the same result. I take my removable piece out at the end of the season have it profesionally cleaned and scotch gaurd it.

hey mike, i saw you and kathy removing that in the fall, but i did not know that it was scotch guarded. so THAT'S why your carpet is schmutz free!

if you have suggestions for my salon, i'm open to it. i'm still leaning towards a taupe colour. i think that would look sharp. next up is to replace the 'tiki torch room' ''drapes'' and replace w/ actual fabric curtains.

aaron

aaronbocknek wrote:

trojanmanXS wrote:scratching my chin thinking I could just load the truck and run the entire east coast this summer spending every night in someones marina recarpeting their Trojans !!! just the thought of this on the water every night is awfully tempting , carpet, beer , dinner, more beer then like a carney I'm off to the next marina

game on buddy. parkside marina, middle river, md. ( http://www.parksideboating.com )

i'd really like a lighter colour. the maroon/red is just a little too dark and does not blend well w/ the teak. i'd also like to get rid of the padding under it. now, how will you cut around the hatches so it give it a finished look?

When your done at Parkside with Aaron's boat come on down the road to Goose Harbor and do mine!

Aaron i am partial to the Hooker red I think you should keep that

I am thinking cork. . .

any nay sayers?

I would love to do that teak and holly vinyl but a splash from a martini or an ice cube from the margarita or wet swimmers. . . hello Mr. Insurance man do I have to tell you something! Lets be honest, it will probably be me that lands on my doopa with a wet shoe!

I have an F30 I am thinking carpet on the stairs and under the table which runs up the side of the boat and folds over.

Sure carpet would be easy but I want that wow factor and given the bulk of the floor is 36 inches - I am not Bob Villa but that is perfect for 12 x 12 cork tiles!

I am thinking cork. . .

any nay sayers?

I would love to do that teak and holly vinyl but a splash from a martini or an ice cube from the margarita or wet swimmers. . . hello Mr. Insurance man do I have to tell you something! Lets be honest, it will probably be me that lands on my doopa with a wet shoe!

I have an F30 I am thinking carpet on the stairs and under the table which runs up the side of the boat and folds over.

Sure carpet would be easy but I want that wow factor and given the bulk of the floor is 36 inches - I am not Bob Villa but that is perfect for 12 x 12 cork tiles!

Just , make sure what ever you put down you still can lift the floor where needed . ( like to get at the bulge pump or any valves or strainers )

ok 500 miles to the arons boat and then onward to the next. when you two decide to actually redo the floors. fabrics ect , its best to to catch the off season as once you start to rip and tear one down to refit theres always a hicup or delay. it gets pretty ugly before you see results but the end product looks , smells like a brand new better then factory install.
I'll try and find some pics of ones Ive done to give some input to the finished look