I am kind of pissed. I know fiber glass but I also know this is a new world to me!. I paid for slow because the up coming season will be warm, but this stuff is not like fixing a Corvette with auto motive materials. 160$ for a gallon. well yea its close to cars but still pissed me off. good thing abouty glass is you can double back it for thickness if you know how to. I am aboutto show that the damagege was against the Head wall. it was not strucural at all. thanks for that tip also, i tried laquer thinner but it didnt work. soap water will done next time for sure.yorklyn wrote:Jeff,
Just a FYI when using west system. If you let it set up overnight you need to take a rag and alitte soapy water (couple drops of dish soap is all you need) and wipe the epoxy down then wipe with clean water. West system gets what called an "amine Blush" which is nothing but a film that created after it cures which creates a bond breaker if you don't wipe it off. Wipe it before you scuff it so you dont "grind it in". My procedure is soapy water, then rinse, scuff with sander, wipe with acetone the apply the next coat.
I found it alot easier to lay up a couple layers at the same time. I was told to start with an inital layer of chopped strand mat because it holds more resin, then a layer of cloth like you used, then another mat and back to cloth until you get the thickness needed.
you can get away with a few layers at a time but don't overdo it because you can "overheat" and cook the epoxy if you go too thick. I typically did two or three at a time.
Sorry if you already knew this but figured I'd mention it just in case.
How did you like buying the west system? I cringe at the price every time I have to buy a kit!!!!
Keep up the good work!
Fiberglass repair step by step
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Last edited by jefflaw35 on Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Heed Yorklyn's warning about the blush. Jeff, I'm assuming you already know this but polyester resin would have been just fine for that repair and cheaper. Why did you go the epoxy route?
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
- prowlersfish
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Polyester won't work as well for repairs as vinylester resin or epoxy . I have used epoxy my self but am looking at Using vinylester my self.
Some info
http://www.redrockstore.com/resin.htm
Some info
http://www.redrockstore.com/resin.htm
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

I understand the properties of all those, but for this particular fix, I'd have no problem with using the polyester resin, and the last paragraph in the link would seem to agree; it's not weight bearing, or according to Jeff; structural. I have used it countless times for that type of repair, and in applications used in some really rough conditions with no recalls. Just thought I would ask considering Jeff is going through some tough expenses these days; a less expensive alternative is available.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
- prowlersfish
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Very true on your points , I had just done some reading on it , never knew much about Vinlyester before , one reason I switched over to West years back was the fumes were easier to deal with and longer working time . But it is costly for sure .
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

I always keep in mind when talking to someone about a repair that epoxy is 5 times stronger, 5 times lighter, and 5 times more expensive. If they're willing to fork out the dough, hey no problem, epoxy it is, if the job warrants it. I would never use poly for example to secure a shaft stern tube or bow thruster tube. In those cases I'd go vinylester or epoxy for sure.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
i spent the $ on this because there are more places to fix, and really being kind of new to boats I didnt want to under do something like this. Figuring im probly going to hit a few docks myself and this area had been slammed before I wanted it to be really strong. The glass on the Head wall appears to be only holding the wall up. I deffinatly wasnt impressed with the dry time but it was cold this weekend, stuff isnt cheap thats for sure
I was also impressed with the fumes, either my nose was stuffed up or there just wasnt any. even the next day there was no smell in the cabin. Had I used something else you probly couldnt go down there with out a mask for days.prowlersfish wrote:Very true on your points , I had just done some reading on it , never knew much about Vinlyester before , one reason I switched over to West years back was the fumes were easier to deal with and longer working time . But it is costly for sure .
- lawyerdave71
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Don't let that fool you. This is not friendly stuff in it's two part form and you should follow the safety cautions carefully. Once it`s cured it`s inert but `till then... All to often I see folks use epoxy and not think twice about protection because it doesn`t smell bad so how bad can it be for you. The assumption always seems to be that only if it smells really bad, suite up.jefflaw35 wrote:....... I was also impressed with the fumes, either my nose was stuffed up or there just wasnt any. even the next day there was no smell in the cabin. Had I used something else you probly couldnt go down there with out a mask for days.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year