tubes in manifolds

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:45 pm

It is how every f28 is installed that I have seen. You know it makes a lot of sense with the risers at the back and at highest part of manifold, eliminates any air lock.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:56 am

Okay here is the best advice on these water distribution tubes.

Bob a Beacon says they usually do not install them.

Marysville Marine was no help two calls

OSCO who makes the manifolds, tubes etc states in their literature and restated after consul with tech the tubes are inserted from the lowest end of the manifold, regardless of where the riser is.

Note: my original manifolds from Chrysler/Trojan had them inserted from the high end which has the risers on my V drives. Probably not any real difference as mine should not get an air lock. I am going to install it as Osco suggest, Fini.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:36 pm

More on these tubes in the exhaust manifolds. Just received my three new ones from marysville retail. Guess what they were different from original, no holes no internal flow restrictor. The salesperson called the expert at Marysville who knows Chrysler in and out. His comments were they should have the holes and the restrictor in the slotted end which this "Bass" brand does not. I am not sending them back but will alter them by drilling the six holes and as the pipe they sent me regular type L copper pipe (hard Copper) I will cut some pieces of next size down and silfloss (braze them inside) which will create the appropriate restriction to free flow of water. I will install them from the lowest end of the manifold.

IMO the ones sent will not work for proper cooling of the manifolds. If there are not holes and no restrictor I can not see any circulation in the manifold oddurring. Knowing what I know now I would just fabricare the whole tube myself of copper.

The original ones are either brass or bronze which, IMO, I think the copper will be fine.

All of this is typical of the sorry mechanical work that is available today. I will not trust anyone to do it for me.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:08 am

I altered the copper manifold tubes to be just like original and they came out perfect. Will post pics and some how too tips later today. In fact I think most anyone can make the tubes, themselves for a few bucks of coper pipe.

Materials:

Type L hard copper pipe 3/4 in O.D. 5/8 in I.D.
Stock motor bushing (hardwar store) 5/8 in O.D. and 1/2 In ID
1/4 inch drill
3/8 inch drill
Flare tool
file

Tube is 19 1/4 in from flare to slotted end
Flare tube first then peen over with hammer, as it is a flat flare about 1/8 inch.
Drill 1/4 in holes all the way through at 1 inch, 7 inch and 13 inch from flared end.
Cut tube to 19 1/4 inch long
Drill 3/8 inch hole lined up with the 1/4 in holes 7/8 inch fromm cut end.
Remove 3/8 section of pipe on both sides down to 3/8 in hole.
Braze the motor busing to inside of pipe flush with the edge of slot.
(Note you will see some flame as the oil burns out of the bronze busing, but then you can braze or silfloss as I did.

Voila, you have just saved about $35 each and you would still have to alter them as I did to match original.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:19 pm

anyone have questions PM just ask.

antlr-king · Post by **antlr-king** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:53 pm

looks good. sounds easy enough to make to. thanks

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:54 pm

Installed the tubes today from the low end of the manifold as Osco recommends. They went in like a breeze, only had to tap one to seat it. I feel better knowing they are in and will do what they are supposed to do.