Trojan Boat Forum

This is a link to the website that sold me on using butyl tape and why its better than caulk in some applications . I also purchased 3 rolls from him so I was sure I was using quality material.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebe ... are&page=1

So much hatred for 5200...lol. The folks are right, the bolts hold the stanchion in place. However, the weakest part of the equation is the fiberglass. The more stress on the particular item, the more danger of the fiberglass cracking or the holes boring out. The caulk is the gasket. The strength of the caulk has little to do with keeping the hardware in place, but the ability of that "gasket" to withstand the stress of vibration and stress. 5200 is NOT for everything, and if you prefer the philosophy is "more is better", then stay away from 5200. To me, the caulk is the shock absorber. 4200 is a regular car shock absorber and 5200 is the off road shock absorber

I just reattached my radar arch after reglassing it. I put a THIN bead of 5200 around the bolt holes, and put 4000 along the seams.

If your intention is to rebedd your underwater gear every "couple" of years, 4200 makes it easy.

So, if you have any of this "devil" caulk 5200, I'll pm you my address. Feel free to send if to me. I'll dispose of it properly

Jerry wrote:....been debated just as much as which prop nut goes on first.... the big one of the little one?....

Oh Oh, Ya just had to bring that up didn't ya

Big D wrote:

Jerry wrote:....been debated just as much as which prop nut goes on first.... the big one of the little one?....

Oh Oh, Ya just had to bring that up didn't ya

Thats what I was thinking . And you can come up with lots of reasons to justify each one going on first .

Ever walk around a boat yard and look at prop nuts ?

prowlersfish wrote:....you can come up with lots of reasons to justify each one going on first.....

Now ya did it Paul, I know it's extremely dufficult in this case but you were supposed to resist the temptation to go there

Jerry wrote: But, working on boats for as long as i have I do not believe there is any circumstance that could rear its head that I would ever use 5200 anywhere on my boat.

I mostly agree, but there are a few things its good for. Garboard drains is one that comes to mind.

Big D wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:....you can come up with lots of reasons to justify each one going on first.....

Now ya did it Paul, I know it's extremely dufficult in this case but you were supposed to resist the temptation to go there

One is a jam nut.

Sorry I couldnt resist !!!

The Dog House wrote:My bow rails are screwed into the deck, not through bolted. I would prefer through bolted, but I don't think I can get to the back of the fittings without cutting holes.

I was wrong about this. My bow rails are through bolted. I think I can get to most of the backing plates by taking off the teak trim inside the cabin. I'll definitely need a 90 degree adapter to get to some of them, but I think I can do it. Since they are through bolted I'll be using butyl tape to do the job. The mechanical strength will come from the bolts.

The bolts that are currently there are very old.



Does anyone know what size bolts were used for the bow rails of an F26? Also, the bolts have "screw" heads. Where would be a good place to get these in stainless steel? I plan on using new stainless steel bolts, washers, and nylock nuts so I'll never have to do this again (hopefully). Any recommendations regarding where to buy the hardware would be appreciated.

ive been getting all of my 316 stainless and silicon bronze fastners from McMaster Carr. They have great prices and I typically get the order in 1 to 2 days. also check out their "structural fiberglass strips and sheets" . if you want to add reinforcement you could get a 4x96 inch strip of the 1/2 fiberglass, cut out circles with a holesaw, drill three holes and use them for backing plates. Unlike plywood they will never rot.

Any recommendations regarding where to buy the hardware

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do

Of course I also like McMaster. Plus they do have the fiberglass sheet that was mentioned for backing plates. I used 1/2" and had it waterjet cut to make backing plates for my through-hull exhaust (yes Aaron, I will eventually post!) and all-new seacocks. Did the profile and the screw holes. It cost about a boat dollar, and I didn't wear out a single blade or inhale any fiberglass dust.

For working in tight spaces, I likes wrenches like these: http://www.amazon.com/home-improvement/dp/B0002NYD3U If they are too floppy, some electrical tape stiffens-up the joint. Also a useful trick when working with socket U-joints.

And if you need to get a nut started in a really tight place, you may try a dab of hot melt to hold the nut to a wooden paint stirrer or equivalent. (Attention: anyone with a tricab with a bath tub re-bedding stanchions adjacent to the tub, this means you!)

P-Dogg wrote:It cost about a boat dollar

Good one!

Thought I'd post this here because it impressed me.
Pulled the counter in my head. When I removed the sink, it was bedded with butyl tape. the plywood looked brand new! after 26 yrs of use, not one drop of water leaked around that sink!

I used butyl tape when I redid my trim tab lines and I was very impressed. I wrapped the butyl tape around the line, feathered it toward the hole in the transom, and from the inside of the boat gently pulled the line into the boat. The butyl tape made a beautiful mushroom like grommet seal. Very easy and very watertight. I'm definitely using butyl tape this Winter when I reseal my front window.

Here's another thumbs up for butyl. I had put this port in with butyl tape a few weeks ago before I decided to replace the interior wood. I decided to remove it to make the interior panel easier to replace. It was a pain to remove. Thought stretch of the butyl was quite impressive.