Trojan Boat Forum

Back to your issue,

1. On my Onan, there is a fuel filter\screen on the pump. May be clogged.
2. One year, I had to run the fuel pump for a couple of minutes to get fuel through the line. Took a long time to prime. I attached the fuel pump to 12 V with the outlet line off the generator until I saw fuel

My tanks are separate pick ups but there is a crossover between the engine fuel filters.

gardnersf wrote:Back to your issue,

{snip} I had to run the fuel pump for a couple of minutes to get fuel through the line. Took a long time to prime......

+1, Paul and I can start a new PM thread to discuss my crazy fuel manifold. Thanks for reminding us to keep on topic.

++1, Its a long way from the tank(s) for sure. If its a priming issue, sometimes you can help prime it with a couple shots of starting fluid (ether), but I mean a couple shots; If it won't run on its own after that after what may even be a prolonged crank, fuel delivery isn't right. If it won't run on a shot of ether, its just not running. Depends on what pump you have if you still have the screen or not, since you replaced it yourself with a new one, you should know best on that. I put a can upstream of the pump for filtration and retrofitted an ignition protected Facet as per the service bulletin; though I didn't use the model that was indicated, I used one with the same specs. No matter what you find with the pump, don't go running it on ether just cuz it will run. Know that means its a fuel problem and troubleshoot it.

Well now, here I am, trying to get genny up and running, and we got this problem. My F28 draws its fuel from one side but from the manifold for fuel direction, so not via a separate line from tank. It appears to be Trojan installed genny and has ran since 1978 so I am going to assume it will work again the way it is, but will be ware of problem.

I know this is rediculus but I thought I read something about a low oil-check oil and if it was ok to remove wire from low oil pressure switch and then push start switch.IF it starts and runs then check to see if the wire lead is grounded.----Same for high air temp switch-remove wire and push start switch.
thats all I remember for cranking and not starting.
sorry
dffg4240

dfg4240 wrote:I know this is rediculus but I thought I read something about a low oil-check oil and if it was ok to remove wire from low oil pressure switch and then push start switch.IF it starts and runs then check to see if the wire lead is grounded.----Same for high air temp switch-remove wire and push start switch.
thats all I remember for cranking and not starting.
sorry
dffg4240

Not ok to disable sensors if:

- You don't know if you have oil pressure or not.

- You don't know if its pumping water.

That thing will kick on a shot of ether if you have spark, compression, and your timing is close.......

thanks guys, I did get it to hit with a shot of ether. I will take the pump off and clean the filter and retrry. Before I do this I am going to crank while holding the pump, to see if I feel anything in the pump, ie that it is getting power.

You can also jumper the wires to a 12 v source with the outlet into a bottle or jar to catch the gas.

my factory gas MCCK genny was so badly rusted that any repairs resulted in snapped off bolts.

I replaced the whole #&*@$! contraption ten years ago with a 5 kW diesel gen set that was designed and certified to operate in a gas environment.

It will run 3 days on it's own 17 gallon tank.

It worked out well as I have not had any problems with it, no sneaky carbon monoxide dangers and it fires up every time.

three years later that decision helped push me into refitting my tired and worn Crusaders to diesel propulsion.

Ask anyone who has done it if they would ever go back........


RWS

RWS , thats the truth .