Trojan Boat Forum

I also use a little piece of PVC as a 'ram' to push the packing into the nut. I also cut whatever packing I am going to install before I back the nut off, so the length of time with the nut off is only to remove the old packing (I use the tip of a thin corkscrew to reach into the nut and snag it), lay the rings in position and push them into the nut (one at a time). Also remember to offset the seams in the rings of packing, to get a better seal.

I use one of my dentists old pick tools to get the packing out. I don't see the amount of water entering when last ring is removed and first new one is installed as much of a problem.... the flow is not that much as the space around shaft is not that big. Yes you get water in the bilge but that is what the pumps are for.

Thanks Guys,
I've always done my packing prior to launch but it sounds like im about to do it in my slip! I'm hoping since the current packing has only been in there for an hour and a half of run time, it will come out easily. I bit the bullet a few years ago and purchased the flexible, packing removal picks and I actually think I know where they are!!!
Do you guys remember what size pvc pipe you used to make your tool? im guessing i want something with an ID close to 1-1/4.
Also from what I read about the gfo packing , I want 2-3 rings. put them in and loosely tighten up the nut allowing it to drip fairly steadily. Take the boat out and run a mile then check temp, if good and still dripping fast tighten to a slow drip then run again. keep repeating until i get the drip down to a drip a minute when at rest. Am I missing anything?

I just gave in and hired a mechanic to align my engines. got a estimate of $300- $400 for both engines . Supposed to be completed on Thursday. figured I have enough other things to tackle and limited time to do it.

find you something 1 1/4 inch in diameter and wrap the packing around it and cut diagonal with a razor blade and you will be ready to go. Go to hardware store and measure inside diameter of pvc and find one that will work then cut a section out to allow it to snap over shaft for insertion. Be sure to put the slits placed evenly around the shaft so they do not line up.

larryeddington wrote:find you something 1 1/4 inch in diameter and wrap the packing around it and cut diagonal with a razor blade and you will be ready to go. Go to hardware store and measure inside diameter of pvc and find one that will work then cut a section out to allow it to snap over shaft for insertion. Be sure to put the slits placed evenly around the shaft so they do not line up.

The 'ram rod' should fit the shaft. Mine is 1.25", don't know what yours is. Whether it is PVC or some plastic barbed fitting with the right interior diameter does not matter. Round, slim, and a diameter that fits your shafts, with a section roughly 25-33% of its diameter removed so you can pry it open and clamp it on the shaft, and have it fit the shaft, is the main thing. If needed I can send you a pic of what I use.

I use the shaft itself to measure the packing length needed (wrap it around the shaft, and cut at a 45 degree angle to produce each each ring) - that way you know the rings have to be the right size. I can point you to a web site with awesome instructions if needed (saw it years ago but probably can't find it tonight).

WOW - I got lucky. Here are the pages (1-3) that you should review http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1. This is pretty close to the bible for re-packing a standard stuffing box.

Thanks Guys.
I had always put a loop on and then gently screwed the nut to seat it , unscrew and repeat. I like the idea of using a "ram" to seat them.

I think Ive read every article on pbase.com, a ton of good info on his site! he's not too hot on the gfo packing because of possible corrosion issues from the graphite.

yorklyn wrote: I think Ive read every article on pbase.com, a ton of good info on his site! he's not too hot on the gfo packing because of possible corrosion issues from the graphite.

The possibility of corrosion is only for bronze shafts on older boats. With a stainless steel shaft, corrosion will not be an issue.

I saw that the article specifically mentioned bronze. was hoping Id be fine with the stainless.
my engines got aligned yesterday. $460 but I didnt have to do it myself! although I will check them just to be sure. will probably switch out the packing on saturday.
Thanks

Thought I'd post an update of my shaft packing nightmare. I pulled the old packing (2 hrs old) and installed three new rings of 1/4 gfo packing on each shaft. I presses each ring in with a piece of pvc pipe and staggered the cuts. I turned the nut back on by hand and stopped before any resistance was felt. i had a steady stream of water running from the nut. took her out and ran about a mile and both shafts were over 150 degrees!!!!! proceeded to loosen the nut again to allow even more water to pour in, ran her again and was still over 150 degrees!
Got pissed off at this point, took the nut off, picked out the third ring of packing on both shafts. very loosely threaded the nuts on and ran it again (videoed each at idle speed). had plenty of water coming in but the temps were 95 on the port and 105 starboard.
I tightened them up a bit at the end of the day but I still had about a drip every 5 seconds at the dock. I never had a problem with flax packing in the past. if these SOB's heat up again Im buying a sailboat

https://youtu.be/ohuj-tf8Ikw

https://youtu.be/RMuPXAPk4bM

yorklyn wrote: I tightened them up a bit at the end of the day but I still had about a drip every 5 seconds at the dock. I never had a problem with flax packing in the past. if these SOB's heat up again Im buying a sailboat

I have a drip every 10 seconds right after I shut the engine down and the nuts/shaft are still warm. The next day when everything is at ambient temperature I no longer have any drips. Check for drips a day or two later and see how it is. Yellow brass has a higher thermal expansion (~11.3) than stainless steel (~9.0), so the gap between the two is greater when they are warm. This is actually beneficial, since we want water flowing between them when the shaft is spinning but ideally would like no water leakage when the shaft is not spinning. Hopefully you have them dialed in now. Let us know your drip rate after everything cools down.

then again, there's always the dripless shaft seals.......

With so many maintenance items requiring our attention, many of which are difficult to access, I went the dripless way on mine.

Perhaps it is worthy of your consideration after the winter haul out?

RWS

i left them dripping with a small bit of optimism that they might stop before i see her next weekend .
Harris, i am really starting to regret my decision not to purchase dripless packings!

++++ on dripless.