Trojan Boat Forum

Hi, I just worked with the West Systems Six-10 product. The 6' mixing tip works well and allows you to get product about 7 to 8" into a small opening. The product is thick enough when it is dispensed that it stays where you put it and does not run at all. The tube that it comes in is a little deceiving in that it looks like you get more than you do. The tube is only half full with product. Oh well that is marketing, but the product did work as advertised. I just needed more than I thought and at $24.00 per tube it does add up fast.

Its good stuff , I use it a lot .

I am going to use it on my new dinghy hardwood floor.

As far as big boat - working on that new teak aka plastic floor for cockpit - seems easy to do like putting a puzzle together - problem is in finding company that will give you an honest answer and what it costs for all supplies plus fancy borders. My rear deck is fiberglass not wood but I am really digging this new plastek aka nuteak. There are so many you tube videos and I am ready to tackle it and do it myself. Plus they say it will last 20 years - so I reckon when they are spreading my ashes, they all be standing on my new plastic teak = LOL

Greetings Rickforth, and welcome to the forum!

The issue with the six-10 is that it is two part, separated longitudinally within the tube. A special pusher, which is half the tube long, pushes the product out from the front half. The way six-10 pays for itself is in small doses, like filling screw holes or something, where it would be a pain to mix bulk goods.

I know that it's been a while since I completed this job so I thought I'd post the results before I forgot about it. In order to replace the core, I cut several 2" squares of 1/2" marine plywood as shown in the picture below.



Next, I coated them with West System (mixed with silica) and slid each piece into the holes pushing them further into the voids with each subsequent piece.





Then once the holes were full, I took the original pieces of fiberglass that were cut out with a hole saw and epoxied them back into place.



Once this cured, I sanded the area down and covered it with heavy roving and West System. (no picture) After replacing the headliner there's no signs that this job even took place. No damage on the upper deck and it's now solid as can be.

That looks like a well-executed repair, it’s great that you didn’t have to do it from the top and mess up the no slip deck

Thanks Barrie,

The non skid deck is still in really nice shape on this boat and I couldn't see myself cutting into it for such a small area. Working from underneath wasn't that difficult although I don't think I'd want to do a large area this way.