Trojan Boat Forum

rnrvmd wrote:I believe I have impellers, would that mean it's raw water cooled? However, if it's a closed system then the 160 are ok and my only concern is adding the aluminum anodes, correct?

Both have Impellers . Raw water cooled means you have raw water running through your engines . A closed system some times called fresh water cooled uses coolant /antifreeze in the engine . Raw water cools the coolant using a heat exchanger . So both have raw water pumps . The closed system also has a circulating / coolant pump as do some/most raw water cooled engines . Some early Chrysler marine engines ( and others) did not use a circulating pump on raw water cooled engines .

Now that that I made it really confusing , Do you have any engine photos ?

prowlersfish wrote:

rnrvmd wrote:I believe I have impellers, would that mean it's raw water cooled? However, if it's a closed system then the 160 are ok and my only concern is adding the aluminum anodes, correct?

Both have Impellers . Raw water cooled means you have raw water running through your engines . A closed system some times called fresh water cooled uses coolant /antifreeze in the engine . Raw water cools the coolant using a heat exchanger . So both have raw water pumps . The closed system also has a circulating / coolant pump as do some/most raw water cooled engines . Some early Chrysler marine engines ( and others) did not use a circulating pump on raw water cooled engines .

Now that that I made it really confusing , Do you have any engine photos ?

+1
Typically if you have a raw water cooled engine, the build will include 140* stats in case the vessel ends up in salt water. If you have a raw water cooled application and are always running in fresh water only, you should switch to 160* stats because the engines operating better in the hotter temperature. You can get away with that in fresh water but not salt water. If it's a fresh water cooled build (antifreeze in block), the build will have 160* stats as no raw salt water runs through the block. Again, the reason for the higher temp stat is because the engine runs better with the higher temp.

The key here is finding out if you have raw water cooled or fresh water cooled engines (coolant). If you have coolant in your engines, then no worries running them in salt water.

prowlersfish wrote:Big D you are correct I seen that crud in many engines, Even the ones flushed out every use . And yes I been around salt water boats longer then I will say . Have seen what the wrong stats will do .

To The OP Changing thermostats to 140 deg range and the right anodes is cheap and easy and goes a long way to a trouble free trip .


I double checked and Aluminum is the right choice for anodes . So change them before launch and your good for both areas . Make sure you change all of them and all are the same .

We get many boats up here from the States and even the ones running 140* raw water apps in salt water are pretty bad when teared down. Same with outboards. You can tell whether the engines were flushed with fresh water regularly or not.

I run only in salt (Narragansett, Cape Cod Bay and Block Island Sound) with RWC motors, with 140 t stats, sorry to let you guys know I dont rinse the motors out, but I'm curious about the anodes, should I switch from zinc to aluminum and whats the reasoning/cost. I haul out every November and relaunch in April and just replace the zincs, 8 in total

I can't comment on costs of aluminum vs zinc as we don't use zinc here, just never bothered to check zinc prices. Zinc is being phased out for environmental and performance reasons. The new aluminum anodes are now the best anodes suited for all water conditions. They are more active than zinc (protect better) but last longer for the same protection reference, and are lighter.

Cost is very close just checking prices alum. was slightly higher in 1" shaft anode and slightly cheaper on 1 1/2 shaft anode . For now I am staying with zinc in salt water . For one they work two I have not found Aluminum engine anodes . At a marine trade show a few years back I was give some Aluminum anodes . I have not tried them as I have been told not to mix them .

prowlersfish wrote:...I was give some Aluminum anodes . I have not tried them as I have been told not to mix them .

Correct. Do not mix them, do not paint them, mount on clean surface, and make sure the anode and metal being protected are in hard contact with each other, they must be electrically connected (continuity between the two).

I don't think you will have a clearance problem if you require less than 12.6' See link below for more info.

http://www.offshoreblue.com/cruising/ch ... -canal.php

Lakeguy