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Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:40 pm
by pk
At this time I have to face the reality; I will never get the boat into the soup this summer. No way. But I don´t hang my head down and cry. I was inspired by another guy on this forum, to rebuild the whole ship. I took a quick discussion with my wife, and told her to keep quiet..... I will continue work on the Trojan. Anyhow...! So now I have made myself a deadline on 15th of April next year. That day she (the boat) will be dipped into it.
Today I have sold both my Mercruisers. And I have got something totally different. A pair of MAN 400 Hp with gearboxes, shafts and screws. But it was expencive. It took almost the whole moneybag. But on the other side; now I have plenty of time to earn more money to spend on new toilette, a new stove, a full insulation of the engine room....., and a new window corner frame from Bob. So Bob: If you read this, let the work begin!
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:23 am
by RWS
PK,
The 400 horse will make her run like she should, You will definately be happy.
Do your research and make CERTAIN that you are using the correct gear ratio for the setup based on the power curve and WOT RPM of the new engines.
Proper propping will be an additional challenge.
Beef up ypur stringers for the additional torque of the diesels with a simple arrangement of 1/2" aluminum bar over the tops of your stringersfrom the forward bulkhead to the battery box.
Make sure all 4 of these are throughbolted to the stringer with washers and locknuts. We also added a layer of 5200 as additional insurance.
This is easily done by making a large enough inspection port with a removable cover for each big thrubolt.
Also, you will have to enlarge the exhaust holes in the hull, and you may (I didn't have to) have to enlarge the fresh air intake holes at the grills.
These intake/exhaust air volumes in cfm (cubic feet per minute) can be calculated.
Get a fuel filtration system of adequate size, becareful here as undersizing can be a problem.
Your raw water intakes will have to be enlarged as well. Bigger seacocks and raw water filtration systems go with this side of the system.
MOST OF ALL, BE SURE - ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN YOU ARE WORKING WITH SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING.
Asimple miscalculation say on your exhaust system could cause the diesel to ingest water, creating additional expense and keeping you off the water again.
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:53 am
by pk
Thanks RWS for some good advices. This time I will try to follow them. And yes, I have a good man with me all the time..... Only pitty the summer holiday went down "the drain". My better half (wife) is not happy with this solution, but I have tried to tell her about our holiday next year....

We´ll see!
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 3:00 pm
by pk
Just a small question: On my new engines there is ZF 220A gearboxes, gear ratio 1.53:1. Downangle is 10 degr. Is 10 degr. too much in the Trojan, or must I use another configuration?
Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:22 pm
by pk
Ahh.... At last I´m back from holiday. Have been in Denmark for 14 days. Tomorrow I will start up the work on Trojan again. Looking forward for the engineroom insulation (sound proofing), the wire work, and to change all seacocks. I sat here thinking about using electrid valves, or electric valve shutters, in addition to manual. Would be nice to just press buttons for opening inlet valves and so on....

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:11 pm
by sehord
Dont get to crazy with automatic seacock valves and hooya like that. The more items that can break on a boat will do just that. use the KISS method and you willl love her all the same.
Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:55 pm
by RWS
ditto what Sehord said.
RWS