Trojan Boat Forum

Chauzer, please fill me in on how you redid your floor. The teak on my back deck looks just a bit worse than yours did originally and I am having some serious issues getting it back into shape.

I tried Tied and water in one spot, tried paint thinner in another, tried stripper in another(which work best), but I can't get it even close to looking cleaner than old and mildewed so I can oil or seal it.

I am looking at possibly replacing the teak for this reason(plus it is slightly warped), but if I could get it to half of what you did my wife would be more than happy.

Thanks for any info.

i started by using a fine grit sandpaper i think around 300 grit. as i sanded the wood turned almost a blonde color. i then went over it all with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. i didn't go with a real rough grit because the wood on my flooring is like veneer. once it was all cleaned up i coated it with a poly-urethane product called envirocoat. mix two parts together and pour it on, its self leveling and is kind of a pain to work with. you can mix silica sand into it to give a no skid surface and when finished you barely notice the sand. if you need anything else let me know i would be glad to help!

Chauzer,

ThInk the Urethane coat will hold up? I did that on the swim platform on my 26 a few years ago, and it help up good for about 2-3 years, but ultimately gave in to the sun and water ... I hope your stuff works ... it wold be a great solution!

Thanks for the info Chauzer. I like the idea of just sanding instead of stripping. I can't seem to get over the fear of the stripper touching my glass somehow somewhere.

Hopefully here in the Dallas area we get above 23 degrees in the near future and I can head out and see what I can put together.

so far so good rossjo. it's some thick stuff at least 3/4 of an inch. it lost some of its shine but it still looks good. i had a 26 sea ray that i redid all of the wood on and i used teak oil, but with chartering and scrubbing the boat down twice a day it didn't last very long! someday when i'm rich and famous i'd like to have everything fiberglassed and be done with it.
when i did the back deck on the trojan, i removed the old flooring and used as a template to cut 1/2 inch marine grade plywood. then i had it sprayed with truck bedliner. i replaced all of the wood lats and bracing under the old floor and screwed the new floor back down. that is the cats a** for cleaning up and you don't slip at all on it even when wet.
the thing i'm having trouble with is what kind of adhesive to use on the wood flooring i'm putting down in the cabin. its all individual tounge and groove pieces that will have to be nailed together but i will have to glue it to the sub-floor.

chauzer wrote:the thing i'm having trouble with is what kind of adhesive to use on the wood flooring i'm putting down in the cabin. its all individual tounge and groove pieces that will have to be nailed together but i will have to glue it to the sub-floor.

nails really?
A friend used double sided carpet tape to hold it down... works fine and will allow access to the bilge damage free should it be required.
With tongue and groove wedged at either end it stays together pretty well.

it was nailed together when i removed it from the old house. i just thought thats how it was done! the tape sounds like a good idea. its gonna be awhile before i am ready to install it, all of the sanding and sealing of the individual boards is very time consuming to say the least! thanks for the idea.

ready123 wrote:

chauzer wrote:the thing i'm having trouble with is what kind of adhesive to use on the wood flooring i'm putting down in the cabin. its all individual tounge and groove pieces that will have to be nailed together but i will have to glue it to the sub-floor.

nails really?
A friend used double sided carpet tape to hold it down... works fine and will allow access to the bilge damage free should it be required.
With tongue and groove wedged at either end it stays together pretty well.

with the wedges how are you going to protect from expansion and contraction?.......you may want to look at some engineered product in lieu of a solid interior flooring material

thats the issue i was having was the flexing of the hull. was looking for an adhesive that stayed somewhat plyable. that way i wouldn't have to nail anything and floor would be able to flex with the boat. on the other hand, the subfloor isn't connected to the boat hull, it just lays on top of the stringers so how flexible does it have to be? i guess i will find out!

MTP wrote:

ready123 wrote:

chauzer wrote:the thing i'm having trouble with is what kind of adhesive to use on the wood flooring i'm putting down in the cabin. its all individual tounge and groove pieces that will have to be nailed together but i will have to glue it to the sub-floor.

nails really?
A friend used double sided carpet tape to hold it down... works fine and will allow access to the bilge damage free should it be required.
With tongue and groove wedged at either end it stays together pretty well.

with the wedges how are you going to protect from expansion and contraction?.......you may want to look at some engineered product in lieu of a solid interior flooring material

I did not mean wedged solid, just the normal spacing to allow for expansion in that floor type.... which is not much on the widths within a boat.

I had a old 43' nautiline houseboat that I lived on for a number of years. I used a Bruce engineered series hardwood that I nailed together and down. When I sold the boat (about 10 years after installation) the floor looked as good as it did when it was put down and I never had any problems with it. Now of course, the boat was used for more of a living quarters then a boat, but from time to time it was taken out for a spin.