Trojan Boat Forum

Exactly - I spent 3 years getting that one done - the F32 will take much longer ... no time it seems.

aLLEN, NO i MEANT Paint stripper on the bottom. West has some that is safe on F/g. Tested it first on small spot. Got almost all the antifouling paint off but the stripper did nothing for the paint on the sides. Didn't even soften it up. Could it be two part epoxy polyurethane?

foofer b wrote:aLLEN, NO i MEANT Paint stripper on the bottom. West has some that is safe on F/g. Tested it first on small spot. Got almost all the antifouling paint off but the stripper did nothing for the paint on the sides. Didn't even soften it up. Could it be two part epoxy polyurethane?

OK! I miss understood, are you painting the entire thing? If you are why can't you use a lot of PATIENCE and real fine grit sand paper and sand the color off? I'm not trying to be smart just trying to learn!

I think that should be a interesting project. I had a boat I was going to redo until I really looked at it. It really was shot. I would have to redo the whole boat in fiberglass which would have cost me more than a used boat. I cut it up and trashed it. I now have a 16 foot Mckee that I am working on. It does not need a lot of work. I would like to put a windshield on it but that reamains to be seen.
I read somewhere where someone used Oven Cleaner to remove bottom paint. I would be scared to do that.

I have used EZ OFF ovrn cleaner on lettering that was painted on the side of my trucks years ago. It worked but it has to sit a long time in order to lift the paint(lettering). It didn't hurt the factory paint at all. I don't think it would hurt gel coat. And if paint stripper didn't remove the side stripe I doubt oven cleaner will do anything but make it shine more.

The paint stripper is West Marine's "Aircraft" paint remover for fiberglaa. Curiously, it cautions in bold print on the back of the can "not for use on aircraft"!
Anyway, it is working on the bottom paint, softening it enuff to scrape off with a putty knife. ALLEN, It is leaving blue colored gel coat which I plan to sand down some before using one part polyurethane paint on the bottom and sides.

I know what you mean REELFISHIN, I don't think it is a lost cause, but I am going to seperate the two hulls and examine the transom to determine how fixable it is, before I invest any more time or elbow grease. So far I have only spent 30 bucks and a coupla hours E/G.

At this point I am not inclined to paint the inner hull (hull liner?) It cleaned up well and wears it's age well.

I will post more pics this evening.

If it cleans up, the Gel Coat will hold up much better than single-part Urethane.

I'd seriously consider 2--part Polyurethane for the outer hull when you do it (nice coat of epoxy primer too).

You might get by on a quart of each.

I vote for Awl Grip Fighting lady yellow.
Here's an example of an EGG I did in '09, brush only.




Ron

Nice paint job Ron. I think I will stick with white though.

Today I finished stripping her bottom, sanding her bottom and sides, and separating her two halves. The transom was as I had suspected, totally rotted out. Most of the foam between the hulls came out with the top half, and I plan to glue the other parts back on.

I have nine holes to fill in the top half and had a brain fart as to how to fix them. Marine 4200 turns almost the exact shade of yellow as the gelcoat, so I thought I would fill them with it. Sound Good?

Also, can I use marine grade plywood in the transom? Someone told me that the chemicals in the p/w will not allow epoxy or 5200 to adhere properly.

Anyone know where to get cheap flexible vinyl rubrail?

Lastly, what's best 2 part poly or one part and why?

Here are some pics from today. I am getting excited. Can't wait to try her out.



After sanding


two halves separated



two halves stored in garage

Looking good so far. It may not of been the correct way but when I replaced the floor in my 23' Chris Craft a few years back I went to H/D and bought 23/32 sheets of plywood cut&fit my patterns. When everything fit the way I wanted it to and all access holes (3) were cut in I then mixed up resin and sealed every inch of the plywood that I wouldn't be able to get to when it was installed. Then installed floor glassed the top down painted engine area and carpeted cockpit. Floor still solid. So can't you cut your pattern out of regular plywood seal it with resin then install?

Regular plywood is definitely the way to go!!

Ron

Hey Foofer,

Ample power for your new project boat.

Hey Foof how much of that stripper did you use ? Looks a lot ezer to use than a d/a sander on a bottom job.

In a word- LOTS. Test it on a small area to make sure it does not harm the gel coat. I used a 10" paint roller and slopped it on good and thick. Let it sit for 15 inutes and maybe more. Test it with a putty knife to see if it is softened up. Then I putty knifed it into piles and slung it into the grass. Used a hose end sprayer to get even more of . Some areas I reapplied.

I fully sanded the hull and she's ready to paint- two part epoxy-perfection. Finally was warm enuff to do some glass work. I glassed in a new block for the bow eye, patched all the holes with cloth under marinetex (in the holes), glassed in (three boards in ) the transom. I mounted three cleats-odd that it did not come with any, and half mounted the dinghy davits.