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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:45 pm
by ready123
You bring up a good point... any load bearing (pull/twisting) item installed to a Trojan wood cored deck should have a backing plate on the other side of the core.... one might argue anything screwed to the cored deck should be through bolted with a backing plate. IMO the backing plate can be pretty much anything S/S, Ally, Starboard, a hard wood or even marine ply.
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 7:54 pm
by Torcan
picked this up
liked the fact that it is powdercoated white as well,
self launching anchor bow roller
And yes, I have already thought about making sure that it isn't just the anchor bolts that will go through the deck, will have a large enough plate made to take up all the stress the windlass and bow roller will make on the underside of the deck, probably a large piece of aluminum, drilled and punched where the chain and rope will go through
Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:35 am
by Paul
That'll look sharp on the bow of your boat. What type of anchor will you be using? An aluminum plate backer sounds like a good solution. The key is to use a thick piece and have it long enough that the roller and windlass bolt thru it. When I did the original install, I used a piece of 3/4" marine ply for this which deflected right along with the bow. That was when I opted for the angle.
Be sure to show us pictures of your installation.
Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:00 pm
by Torcan
Paul
I was thinking of probably going with the Fortress Anchor
FX-7 rated for boats 16 to 27 feet
Anchor weighs 4lbs
or FX-11
good for boats 28 to 32 feet
Anchor weighs 7lbs
Any other suggestions?
I figure 15 feet of chain should also do it??? Since I am on Lake Ontario and would probably NOT anchor at 300 feet
Figure max of 50 feet water depth to anchor should be ok??? Any deeper and I'll just motor
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:00 am
by alexander38
Darn good hook
go one size up from your boat size. Rule of thumb down this way.
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:11 pm
by Paul
I agree with Tony, one size up (FX 11) is the way to go. I think when they rate boat length for an anchor, it's based on the length of newer boats which include platform and pulpit. These newer boats also weigh much less that an older Trojan.
I made the mistake of purchasing the recommended size Danforth for my Trojan and found myself drifting in a stiff wind on 3 or 4 occasions. I replaced it with one size up and have had much better results. I've had the anchor loose it's hook only once in 8 years. It was this past summer as an F1 tornado rolled thru the area. It actually bent the shank on the anchor.
This picture was taken about 15 minutes before the tornado. Good thing we were in a sheltered bay.
Those Fortress anchors are nice. I think your making a good choice.
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:03 pm
by Torcan
Got it!
FX-11 it is then
Thanks guys for the feedback
Nasty weather there Paul, glad you made it out safe and sound
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:08 pm
by prowlersfish
Take a Danforth any day , ok you have my 2 cents worth
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:20 pm
by larglo
I also have an F25 and was wondering what size rode should be used for the type and size anchor most of you are suggesting here for thgis size boat. Seems like 3/8 and 1/2", 3 braid type, are listed in most marine supply places on line.
Also,,,what size chain and length, would most recommend,,,,1/4",,, etc? I have a danforth anchor, but it seems like it weights a ton, compaired to the 7 and 11 lbs stated here. My rode has to be 3/4" and made of a braided rough material and very stiff and hard to handle.
The wife I would love to find a spot in 10 to 30 feet of water or so, anchor and do some fishing, nut the anchoring has been a problem for me as I have said before here.
I like the roller, but with so little support, it would rip out trying to bring the anchor up, and tear the bow up doing so, even with the under support,,,any chance of that?
Larry
I ALSO HAVE AN f25
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:44 pm
by Paul
Hi Larry,
I would suggest 1/2" 3 braid twisted rope with about 15 ft of 1/4" chain. This would be much easier to handle that the 3/4" that you now have. A bow roller would help your anchor retrieval as well however you would not require a pivoting (self launching) roller if you are handling your anchor manually. A less expensive fixed roller would work just fine. As far as ripping it out is concerned, if you install it as we've discussed in the above posts it'll be just fine. Most of the damage that I see happen to bow rollers and pulpits is due to people crashing into break walls or having the boat tied in a slip with the anchor over the break wall when the water level drops.
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:48 pm
by larglo
Anyone have one of these, or know someone who does?. If so, are they any good?
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 2&id=31510
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 2&id=31510
Larry
for some reason it will not highlight the complete web address, may have to type in manually the end part once your at Defender.
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:34 pm
by Torcan
Ok, so I went to pick up the windlass today, save shipping and don't have to worry about damage, or getting lost in the post office. Was 1 hour drive away, so it was good to get away.
THAT was all I was supposed to walk away with...DUH
BUT... (there is always a but)
Bought a FX-11 Fortress anchor, rope and chain, swivel
New Uniden Oceanus D VHF/DCS Class D Radio
4 life jackets, 1 that is the automatic inflate in water for myself, the other 3 just normal for the freeloaders on board
Remote controlled search light for bow,
and a few other odds and ends, adds up fast
a $500 trip turned into a $1200 trip...Aaaaaghhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All in all, had a good day though:)
Guess I should mention, the guy who sold me the boat, well he bought another, and has kept most of the equipement for his new boat, so I have to buy or replace quite a few things.
He did leave the depth finder and GPS though, 2 less things to buy.
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:50 pm
by captainmaniac
Torcan wrote:a $500 trip turned into a $1200 trip...Aaaaaghhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Welcome to boating!!!
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:05 pm
by larglo
Yea,,,,,but ain't it fun.
Larry
Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 4:03 pm
by Codger
Paul,
I just picked up that same bow roller. When I went to do the install, I noticed that the sides of the "groove" in the bow is right on the edge of where the 2 rearward bolt holes are. Did you just run the bolts thorough the holes in the small bracket, or did you drill your own holes in the anchor roller bracket to make them line up in the groove. Did you reinforce the area underneath where the roller is mounted? Any chance you have any more pictures of your install showing the bolts and location relevant to that groove in the bow?
Thanks!
Codger wrote:Paul wrote:Hi Torcan,
I think you'll be happy with your purchase. $450 is a good price. Power down is not a bad thing however it doesn't provide the pin point accuracy for anchor positioning that free fall does. (especially in the wind) I have a similar sized boat with a similar windlass (power down) and have been very happy with it's performance over the past 10 years. It's a simple set up and easy to operate. The windlass is a Horizon 400 and has 200ft of rope with 15ft of chain. The anchor roller is a pivoting style so that the anchor easily self deploys when I hit the down switch. The switch is mounted at the helm and is a toggle with momentary up and down positions. I also have a cable tether on the anchor as a safety so that the anchor cant be deployed by mistake. As far as the anchor itself is concerned, you need to choose which style will work best for the environment that you will be anchoring in. Below is a picture of my set up.
As you can see I left the original anchor and haws tube in place. It's a good back up and I occasionally use it as a stern anchor.
So here's how we use it. As we arrive at our favorite swimming hole, off plane and at idle speed, my wife heads forward and releases the safety cable. I then idle into the wind well forward of the spot that I want the boat to sit over and shift the boat into reverse. Once the forward motion is almost stopped, I hit the power down switch and deploy the anchor. I then keep releasing rope as the boat moves backwards. (not to fast) I then neutral the boat then stop releasing rope which takes up the slack and sets the anchor. I then go up on the bow and cleat off the rope. This takes the load off of the windlass while at anchor.
When it's time top leave, I un-cleat the rope, then go back to the cockpit where I bump the shifter in and out of forward to get the boat moving towards the anchor. (this prevents a sudden heavy load on the windlass) Then with the boat moving forward I hit he toggle and use the windlass to pull the boat towards the anchor, and pull it up. Once it's back in place my wife re-attaches the safety cable and were on our way.
Also, you might notice that we installed a washdown on the bow next to the anchor. Often the anchor comes back up with mud and weeds on it and the washdown makes it easy to hose it off.
Hope this helps.
Paul,
What is the brand and model bow roller you have? I'm looking for the same thing.
