Trojan Boat Forum

yorklyn wrote:I would bet money that all you have is a leak from one of the trim tab mounting screws. all that "bump out" is a piece of hard wood backing for the trim tab screws that is glassed in(using that term loosely since the glass is basically there to just hold the wood and not seal it from the bilge. )
I quit using 5200 a while back. although I disagree with the term "permanent" that 3m uses in the description, it can delaminate fiberglass when force is used during dis assembly of a part glued with 5200. 4200 is usually more the adequate.
If possible i would try simply removing and rebedding the mounting screws for your tabs with 4200.
Your transom (and Hull) are solid glass so the only thing that could rot would be the wood used to back up the screws. i found the i had more then enough thickness in the fiberglass transom for the screws to bite so i would not worry too much about the wood right now.
As far as the strut bolts you should be able to see water weeping from around a bolt if it is leaking. if its not I would try to wait until your cutlass bearing needs replacing, pull the strut, replace the bearing and then reinstall it with new bolts and caulk.

yorklyn wrote:Should be 8 to 10 screws holding each tab on. Mine were #3 head Philips sheet metal screws.
Boats for sale. Just turned down a offer of 34k cash on it. Decided that I'm not desperate, if someone makes me a reasonable offer I'll consider it, if not I'm keeping it and will hopefully have money to put her in next year.
I haven't been on the site that much recently but I'm now on your "upgrade" thread. Will do my best to help with any more questions. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have any other questions that I might be able to help with.
Good luck.

yorklyn wrote:Boats for sale. Just turned down a offer of 34k cash on it. Decided that I'm not desperate, if someone makes me a reasonable offer I'll consider it, if not I'm keeping it and will hopefully have money to put her in next year.

BobCT wrote:If the strut, you might be able to slightly torque the nuts in the boat and see if that helps. That seems too easy though if someone has already tried a repair. As a matter of fact, you could remove all of the nuts and pry the reinforcing plate off completely. If water is getting past one of the bolts you'll be able to see it firsthand. if this is the case, you can fix it from inside the boat for now or get a sense to let it ago until a longer haul out.

The strut should be sealed to the hull and around the perimeter. If water gets past that point, the bolts should be watertight to prevent water from seeping past into the boat.

One thing that would help would be to vac out all the water and then clean that whole part of the hull with acetone. Then you'll have a nice clean area to start. This would narrow down between strut and tabs. If you open the small hatch closest to the stern (in the engine room), you can stick your head down and see the inside of the drain plug. A leak there would be easy to spot.

Bob

gardnersf wrote:Glad to have another 10 meter mid cabin owner around. Had mine for 8 years. Happy to chime in. I had fuel tank issues a couple of years ago. I honk the ethanol essentially cleans the tank and you have to work the crap out. I built a homemade fuel polisher with a marine fuel pump. A file water separator and cartridge filter and lines. I pulled from the engine fuel line and pumped the fuel back to the fuel tank fill. After about 8 hours of cleaning, the fuel was much better. If you were around I would loan it to you. I also have had good luck with Startrom additive. When I had my fuel issues I did some testing in mason jars and Startrom did clean up the fuel some