1974 F-25 Salt Water Progress
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- captainmaniac
- 2025 Gold Support
- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
- Location: Burlington, Ontario
No question, totally agree; stronger, lighter, but more expensive. Don't use glue, if epoxy is too much $, do your magic with poly and glass. You should also make a rabbit joint on the inside of the existing ply for a stable joint and match up a rabbit on the new piece. The best ratio is 8:1, so a 1 inch ply should use an 8 inch rabbit joint.captainmaniac wrote:Laminating with West System epoxy is probably stronger than glue, plus the penetration of the epoxy into the wood will make it that much more stiff.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
OK i will do the rabbit joint, this I know. 8:1 sounds slow, but I like the idea as it will soak good. I dont mind the expence as I of now, I do not buy from from west marine. Found a whole sale supplier and got 3, 1 gallon kits for 278$ much better than west marine and should be enough to finsh all my glass work.
- vabeach1234
- Moderate User
- Posts: 370
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 4:47 pm
- Location: Hampton, VA
- Contact:
Jeff,
You ever consider buying epoxy from here:
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
I ordered the 2 part foam from them and it worked out great, and you can even choose the density. If I need more epoxy, I will probably order from there. West Marine is just way too expensive. I miss Boaterworld. At least they gave west marine some competition.
You ever consider buying epoxy from here:
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
I ordered the 2 part foam from them and it worked out great, and you can even choose the density. If I need more epoxy, I will probably order from there. West Marine is just way too expensive. I miss Boaterworld. At least they gave west marine some competition.
Ken
1972 Trojan F26 Express
1985 Dell Quay Dory 13
Hampton, VA
http://s853.photobucket.com/user/vabeac ... ojan%20F26
1972 Trojan F26 Express
1985 Dell Quay Dory 13
Hampton, VA
http://s853.photobucket.com/user/vabeac ... ojan%20F26
Ken! thanks for your reply! No I have never seen this site, thanks. I found "eastern Burlap" its in downtown norfolk. Prices even beat your site, they have every thing!!! no account needed. You should look into it, I have a friend with an account but its hard to get up with people when you need it now, lol. Glad you chimed in, I know im not well liked here, hate to think someone local would turn there head at me when I hit the water, I like your boat! Im looking through your site now. check out the norfolk spot....its good! West Marine can kiss my arse!!! its a rip off, they wont get me again for sure!!
-
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 1876
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:08 pm
- Location: Canton, TX Boat on TEXOMA
Here is another good supplier of Epoxies and all things fibergalass:
http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/
http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/
Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
- vabeach1234
- Moderate User
- Posts: 370
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 4:47 pm
- Location: Hampton, VA
- Contact:
Good stuff Larry. Thanks.
Jeff. Thanks. I've owned her for 8 years now and still fixing previous owner issues. I'm currently "resealing" the hard top. I've also got a soft spot aft of the water tank fill on the port side so I'll be fixing that after the hardtop is resolved. Then I will hopefully paint the topsides.
I doubt anyone could turn their head at you when you're done. Your boat should be something to see when done. Hey it takes all kinds to make the world go round.
Oh yeah. You tease us with this blogspot you created and then don't update it. Come on man.
Jeff. Thanks. I've owned her for 8 years now and still fixing previous owner issues. I'm currently "resealing" the hard top. I've also got a soft spot aft of the water tank fill on the port side so I'll be fixing that after the hardtop is resolved. Then I will hopefully paint the topsides.
I doubt anyone could turn their head at you when you're done. Your boat should be something to see when done. Hey it takes all kinds to make the world go round.
Oh yeah. You tease us with this blogspot you created and then don't update it. Come on man.
Ken
1972 Trojan F26 Express
1985 Dell Quay Dory 13
Hampton, VA
http://s853.photobucket.com/user/vabeac ... ojan%20F26
1972 Trojan F26 Express
1985 Dell Quay Dory 13
Hampton, VA
http://s853.photobucket.com/user/vabeac ... ojan%20F26

Whats up jeff! heres some hints and tips to help do some laminating.
Everybody on here Eastern Burlap Of Norfolk is the way to go all the guys in there are willing to answer all questions and they have anything you could possibly need the build a boat.
use a piece of cardboard to make a template so you can trace onto your core and cut out. Im gonna tell you a little secret about what kind of core ply to use, go to lowes(yes a big box store) and buy you a sheet of 3/4 Aruaco ACX plywood and a sheet of 1/2 inch Aruaco Acx Plywood. Aruaco has all the same qualitys most of your marine plys have (exterior glue. solid laminate no voids, and kiln dryed) This ply is also used by alot of custom boat builders to do hatch cores and alot of other things. Its a great product it just doesnt have the "MARINE" stamp on it and its about 40 dollar a sheet cheaper.
Cut your plywood out using your templates and then dryfit (alittle room around the edges is fine because you can fill it with thickened epoxy) I actually like a small void around the perimeter to allow thickened epoxy to form a better glue joint
Hot coat side of core that your gonna laminate to each other. this hot coat allows the epoxy to "tooth" into each piece of ply plus you dont want to dehydrate your thickened epoxy "glue" or cloth because your ply has soaked it all up.
Go ahead and by yourself a 1/4 knotch trowel that your would use to install ceramic tile. this is what you will apply your "glue" with to your ply when your ready to laminate them together
When "glue" is applied then screw the 2 cores together but dont screw the 2 plys up super tight because you want a slight layer of glue for better adhesion (meaning dont screw it so tight you squeeze all the "glue" out.)Then clean up your edges.
If your fast and have help then I would laminate plys together then "glue" the edges of the hole(hotcoat core ply around hole and fill voids around hole with thickened epoxy) and install the ply in the hole and tape and glass it. Wet on wet always has more structual integrity.
If you need some help during this phase then call me up and I will come over and give you a hand.
Everybody on here Eastern Burlap Of Norfolk is the way to go all the guys in there are willing to answer all questions and they have anything you could possibly need the build a boat.
use a piece of cardboard to make a template so you can trace onto your core and cut out. Im gonna tell you a little secret about what kind of core ply to use, go to lowes(yes a big box store) and buy you a sheet of 3/4 Aruaco ACX plywood and a sheet of 1/2 inch Aruaco Acx Plywood. Aruaco has all the same qualitys most of your marine plys have (exterior glue. solid laminate no voids, and kiln dryed) This ply is also used by alot of custom boat builders to do hatch cores and alot of other things. Its a great product it just doesnt have the "MARINE" stamp on it and its about 40 dollar a sheet cheaper.
Cut your plywood out using your templates and then dryfit (alittle room around the edges is fine because you can fill it with thickened epoxy) I actually like a small void around the perimeter to allow thickened epoxy to form a better glue joint
Hot coat side of core that your gonna laminate to each other. this hot coat allows the epoxy to "tooth" into each piece of ply plus you dont want to dehydrate your thickened epoxy "glue" or cloth because your ply has soaked it all up.
Go ahead and by yourself a 1/4 knotch trowel that your would use to install ceramic tile. this is what you will apply your "glue" with to your ply when your ready to laminate them together
When "glue" is applied then screw the 2 cores together but dont screw the 2 plys up super tight because you want a slight layer of glue for better adhesion (meaning dont screw it so tight you squeeze all the "glue" out.)Then clean up your edges.
If your fast and have help then I would laminate plys together then "glue" the edges of the hole(hotcoat core ply around hole and fill voids around hole with thickened epoxy) and install the ply in the hole and tape and glass it. Wet on wet always has more structual integrity.
If you need some help during this phase then call me up and I will come over and give you a hand.
Thanks Matt, Its probly best if I do get you over here to help considering you have done ALOT of laminating. Big Jeff and I can run to Lowes when we are ready, but im down to 1/3 gallon of west systems so I will need to go to Eastern B with you before we do this. Front windows were easy considering the thickness was nill. These side windows are about 7ft x 10 inches x 1-1/4 thick and I really dont want any warping of the wood if it can be prevented. Im painting a full black windsheid so any flaws will stand out and I cant have that. Ill call you this week, maybe I can steal you one saturday or sunday soon. The more I read about this and the more Opinons I get, the more confused I get. Better to just be taught hands on!! Thanks Again!!
- aaronbocknek
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 2080
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:19 am
- Location: baltimore, md (alexandria, va and middle river,md) PARKSIDE MARINA
jeff, i've been absent on your progress so far and am now just catching up. lord knows, over the next few weeks i can probably be up to speed with what you and the the other guys are doing, provided my vessel does not keep me too occupied. anyway, am i to understand that you are not going to have any cabin windows? have you considered maybe adding two port lights to either side instead of the window frames? that way you will have some cross ventilation and the cabin will not be so closed up.
aaron
aaron